Power FC Latest dyno run- still no wideband info though
#1
Latest dyno run- still no wideband info though
I just wanted to post the lastest dyno run I had at the SE-RX7 dyno day this past saturday. It was the basic 3 runs for $50 so I didn't have time to have them hook up their wideband and I don't have the Greddy O2 Sensor plumbed in yet either. At the last run, running a little over 12 psi of boost, I made 325 rwhp, but it was at another dyno than I normally use. Back at the usual dyno, my last run their was the one I posted here on the forum, 320.9 rwhp and 274.6 ft/lbs. This past Saturday, nice almost 60 degree weather, boost control was working better, I ran 13 psi....took out .08 in fuel from 5000 up to redline, had the 3 lbs per wheel heavier 99 spec rims on, bumped the timing up in the 3200 to 5000 range. Wow, damn that made a difference. Even with the heavier wheels leeching off some rwhp for comparison sake to the last run, I made 334.4 rwhp and 296 ft/lbs with no boost spiking. I didn't notice until after he had printed it out it was plotted against speed and not rpms, but from 56 mph to 118 I had over 250 ft/lbs. I was also over the 300 rwhp from 94 mph to 139 mph. Looking at the O2 sensor, I was at .97 up until transition, then it slowly worked its way up to 1.03 or so to redline. Second run I had it on the peak hold mode watching boost, inj duty, water temp, and knock....max knock value with the numbers I have now was 38 (always add octane booster at every fill up), max boost was .9, injectors were hitting 98.x %. During the second run I watched my boost gauge to compare it to the PFC data for max boost. The autometer gauge needle was a hair past 13, like the needle was not pointing at 13, but the needle was RIGHT under it, almost touching it. Spyfish posted once about his OMP voltages being off on his PFC, and thought all were like that, but then again, mine weren't. I'm now wondering if there's some sort of variance in the PFC, since it appears mine is displaying very close to the boost the boost gauge is showing, whereas Chuch has shown his is off by comparing the 3 (gauge, PFC displayed, and voltage readings). I'll watch my map voltages next time (with a friend watching the commander) while I watch the gauge and compare them.
I'm going to send my 1300 injectors off to RC to verify my flow rates, but not tell them what CC they are so they'll have to run them, and not just print off a common report as it seems they have done in the past for 1300 injectors. I'll then take the time to tune/dyno/wideband the PFC to bring the inj duty numbers down to the 85 or lower range at 13 psi on the first boost setting and 14.5 for the second (which I won't use much).
Tim Benton
damn car feels great
I'm going to send my 1300 injectors off to RC to verify my flow rates, but not tell them what CC they are so they'll have to run them, and not just print off a common report as it seems they have done in the past for 1300 injectors. I'll then take the time to tune/dyno/wideband the PFC to bring the inj duty numbers down to the 85 or lower range at 13 psi on the first boost setting and 14.5 for the second (which I won't use much).
Tim Benton
damn car feels great
#5
no, I have them, but not installed on the car. I'll send them off to RC to have them flow checked before I put them in just to make sure what they are flowing.
As far as mods, stock engine, turbos, M2 intake, efini y pipe, M2 med IC, greddy elbow, ceramic coated DP, resonated DP, PFS cat-back, hks twin ignition, 9's in all 4 plugs, magnecor KV85 wires, PFC, 11.5 flywheel, mazda comp pressure plate (30%), RP underdrive pulley and other UR pullies.
As far as mods, stock engine, turbos, M2 intake, efini y pipe, M2 med IC, greddy elbow, ceramic coated DP, resonated DP, PFS cat-back, hks twin ignition, 9's in all 4 plugs, magnecor KV85 wires, PFC, 11.5 flywheel, mazda comp pressure plate (30%), RP underdrive pulley and other UR pullies.
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#9
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Tim, great numbers sounds liek you car is ruinning tip top. I haev a question for you. WHy are you running so rich? you really need to get a wideband hook up to verify, but 1.03 wholly ****, you are probably loosing some power there. I am using the ford escort sensor too, adn I see .89 at WOT, sometimes .91 dependin oin EGT. Howecome you are runnign octance booster? just for as insurance or what? You said you advanced the timming, did you adopt the timing at higher rpms from the base stock set? or just manually?
BTW, finally my car is running decent, I am going ot do the blcok off plates, but it runs much better, still wokring on that boost problem. When I get eveything running, maybe we will shoot down to the dyno again. Also, thanks for the wheels, they worked out great, no damage, and they are really clean cosmetically.
BTW, finally my car is running decent, I am going ot do the blcok off plates, but it runs much better, still wokring on that boost problem. When I get eveything running, maybe we will shoot down to the dyno again. Also, thanks for the wheels, they worked out great, no damage, and they are really clean cosmetically.
#10
I'm running octane booster just for the hell of it and I know it helps keep the knock number lower so it gives a little more room, safety zone, for a bad tank of gas. As far as timing, I have now rasied it 2 degrees in the low rpm range from the maps posted on the forum, and 2 dropping off to 1 in the higher range with a slight increase in the knock numbers (all in row P17).
The 1.03 O2 reading obviously means the injectors are jsut dumping fuel in as fast as they can. I'm hoping to get Mazcare to put in the 1300 when I get them back in from RC.
Tim Benton
glad the wheels worked out for you, it freed up some space in the car parts garage/utility building in the backyard
The 1.03 O2 reading obviously means the injectors are jsut dumping fuel in as fast as they can. I'm hoping to get Mazcare to put in the 1300 when I get them back in from RC.
Tim Benton
glad the wheels worked out for you, it freed up some space in the car parts garage/utility building in the backyard
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