Power FC Installed Power FC, engine makes irregular noise *Video*
Installed Power FC, engine makes irregular noise *Video*
Over the weekend my Mom and I installed a second hand Power FC, reinstalled my FMIC, a new water pump, thermostat, efan, and 740cc secondaries. Got the car to start up first try but it wanted to idle like it was bridgeported and was very very rich. After doing some research, reading, etc. I was able to finagle the car to around 13.8 AFR's at idle and locked the timing in at -5L -20T. The engine remains very unbalanced and sounds similar to cars that I've heard on one rotor. I checked compression and it still is the same as it was 2 years ago. I tried running the car on the trailing coil and it wouldn't run so that's a side issue. I tried running my leading coil on each rotor individual and I could halfway get it to idle so they're both firing. I was not able to get my timing light to pick up for some odd reason 
What can anyone make of this vid? I'm stumped at the moment
Power FC woes - YouTube

What can anyone make of this vid? I'm stumped at the moment

Power FC woes - YouTube
No educated guesses? Things to check? Car ran smooth as silk on my stock ECU as of last week. The only thing I can think of is the timing the PFC is telling me is not coordinating with the actual timing of the engine because of the CAS...but if that were the case wouldn't I have had the same issue on the stock ECU?
To my understanding, if timing is correct and the AFR's are in the ball park then the car should sound like a rotary, not a little lawn mower...which is what is sounds like right now.
EDIT: The exhaust gas temperatures are so hot that they're overheating my LC-1 wideband which is installed almost a foot downstream on the downpipe. Severely retarded timing is the cause of that correct?
To my understanding, if timing is correct and the AFR's are in the ball park then the car should sound like a rotary, not a little lawn mower...which is what is sounds like right now.
EDIT: The exhaust gas temperatures are so hot that they're overheating my LC-1 wideband which is installed almost a foot downstream on the downpipe. Severely retarded timing is the cause of that correct?
Did you verify the injector sizing is set correctly in the PFC?
Did you verify the Map sensor calibration?
I think I forewarned you that I would be concerned about the map when you PMed me last week.
Did you verify the Map sensor calibration?
I think I forewarned you that I would be concerned about the map when you PMed me last week.
Anyways, I'm off to re-stab my CAS...just bought a more expensive timing light to see if I have any better luck getting it to pick up. If that doesn't work, I really have no idea until I get the datalogit, reinitialize and start from scratch with the 'idle learning' process.
Update:
My CAS was off two teeth so I restabbed it, started the car up and it sounded better, not perfect, but better. I was letting the car warm up all the while I was moving the CAS to see how it would affect the idle when the car died. No problem, let me just start it back up. It just turned over without even attempting to start. I looked at the gas gauge and just assumed I must have ran out because it was on E. Drove to the gas station in my DD and filled up a gas jug. Put a gallon in the tank, turned it over and still nothing. Checked the resistance of both the leading and trailing coils, they fell right into spec of the manual. Jumped the fuel pump and it came to life with plenty of pressure, no leaks. Judging by my wideband I'm not getting any spark because when I turn the car over the afr's get richer. Is this Power FC related? Did I fry something?
My car is giving me the silent treatment, I would really appreciate some feedback.
My CAS was off two teeth so I restabbed it, started the car up and it sounded better, not perfect, but better. I was letting the car warm up all the while I was moving the CAS to see how it would affect the idle when the car died. No problem, let me just start it back up. It just turned over without even attempting to start. I looked at the gas gauge and just assumed I must have ran out because it was on E. Drove to the gas station in my DD and filled up a gas jug. Put a gallon in the tank, turned it over and still nothing. Checked the resistance of both the leading and trailing coils, they fell right into spec of the manual. Jumped the fuel pump and it came to life with plenty of pressure, no leaks. Judging by my wideband I'm not getting any spark because when I turn the car over the afr's get richer. Is this Power FC related? Did I fry something?
My car is giving me the silent treatment, I would really appreciate some feedback.
Stop trying to force the car to run with the wrong map sensor setup. If it is reading .48 when not running the map is going to be exceedingly retarted and be dumping fuel.
You probably fouled your spark plugs.
Fix the trailing coil, someone did not modifiy it correctly.
You probably fouled your spark plugs.
Fix the trailing coil, someone did not modifiy it correctly.
Stop trying to force the car to run with the wrong map sensor setup. If it is reading .48 when not running the map is going to be exceedingly retarted and be dumping fuel.
You probably fouled your spark plugs.
Fix the trailing coil, someone did not modifiy it correctly.
You probably fouled your spark plugs.
Fix the trailing coil, someone did not modifiy it correctly.
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Could adjusting the CAS without turning off the Idle IG control feature with the commander cause this issue? I just remembered that I might not have turned that feature off before I started turning the CAS. As soon as I turned that CAS the car died. Hmm.
Update:
Map sensor is calibrated now so timing and fuel should be in the ball park. Car idles fine and sounds like a rotary again, but now when trying to drive it is VERY sluggish, might be able to hit 20 mph in 25 seconds or so and when I pulled over at the gas station I saw this after 5 minutes of driving.

The car is building boost very quickly but it isn't going anywhere fast. Other threads I've seen are clogged cat (don't have one), air pump issues (don't have one), AFM issues (don't have one), and leading coils (yes!). I was pretty sure my trailing coils weren't firing but now I'm beginning to wonder if they are and my leading are not causing the lack of power and glowing hot EGT's? My wideband obviously is overheating
Map sensor is calibrated now so timing and fuel should be in the ball park. Car idles fine and sounds like a rotary again, but now when trying to drive it is VERY sluggish, might be able to hit 20 mph in 25 seconds or so and when I pulled over at the gas station I saw this after 5 minutes of driving.

The car is building boost very quickly but it isn't going anywhere fast. Other threads I've seen are clogged cat (don't have one), air pump issues (don't have one), AFM issues (don't have one), and leading coils (yes!). I was pretty sure my trailing coils weren't firing but now I'm beginning to wonder if they are and my leading are not causing the lack of power and glowing hot EGT's? My wideband obviously is overheating
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trickster
2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992)
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Jul 1, 2023 04:40 PM







