I cannot seem to get the fuel right in order to keep my car running properly. It will start up but will only run for a second until it dies. I need help with this Power FC. I don't have my datalogit anymore. I might be able to borrow it if that 's what I need, but I figured I could at least get some of you guys'/girls' help in getting it running and idleing. Heck, I will even pay someone if they could come to my house and get it going. I just don't want to pay top dollar for a tuner/shop to do it right now, until I can actually drive it and break the motor in and then actually get it tuned for power. Anyone willing to help me? Please, I just want to get my car to where I can drive it and start breaking it in. I have 9s T & L and mods in my sig.

Dee

 

A engine with all lines/hoses/controll connected properly will start and idle on almost any maps as long as the idle speeds and functions are set up correctly with the PFC.

What makes you think it is fuel and not air flow?
Most idle problems are user caused problems.

 

It is a freshly rebuilt motor and has a large streetport and zero miles. I'm not sure if that has anything to do with it. It will start up, but it just dies out.

Dee

 

(1) adjust for more air first.
(2) adjust fuel next.

If the cold start assist/hot wax rod is not functing, then the engine difinitely will not conitnue to run when starting.

Find someone who knows FDs.

 

Update: I kept cranking and cranking on my car last night and once the water temp. got up to operating specs, the car fired up and stayed running until I cut it off. My double throttle has been disabled I found out; would this have anything to do with the car not staying running when cold? Once it was warm, it would crank up and I cut it off and crank it back up. No problem on a warm start.

 

I have no double throttle(removed it)--it shouldn't affect you...have you tried to reset the PFC...

 

Your cold start settings are FUBAR!

 

Can they be fixed? I don't know how to do that.

Dee

 

Adjusting idle (start and warm) is easy but there are many little things that comprise it.

On the throttle there is the idle set screw, air bleed screw, hot wax rod and cam,
and ISC solenoid. The ISC is adjsutable with the commander (the three idle adjustments). Then with the commander is the water temperature and cracnking tables, and the idle speeds.

That is why I said you need to find an very experienced ower in your area.

 

Man, I would be willing to pay someone to come here and get me running, but it's hard to find anyone. I just want to get the car running well enough to break the motor in and then it will be off to Steve Kan for a tune. cewrx7r1, don't you want to come help me? Please? LOL

Dee

 

Unfortunately I live in Houston Texas.

How about these guys;

http://www.rotorsportsracing.com/

 

cewrx7r1: I can take the car to them, but I really want to get it running before I take it anywhere, so I can go ahead and break it in. Thanks though, I know Brian at Rotorsports. A guy that I work with got all of his work done there. He is actually the one that got me in this "mess". Haha.

Dee

 

One thing is if you really know and understand you car inside and out, then this type of problem usually will not happen when you start modifying it.

Fortunately I grew up working on cars from the late 50s, and have owned and worked on a few sports cars before ECUs, FI, and turbos came popular and common. Thus I already new all the old stuff and learned the new. Knowing the old stuff helps to really undestand the new. Some of the idle adjustments is old stuff.