Power FC Car Stalls between shifts.
Car Stalls between shifts.
Hey I did a search and didn't come up with anything that matches my scenario. I purchased a powerfc and a banzai auto adapter harness. I did the idle learn process and everything ran fine. I recently completed a 5 speed swap per the write up on the forums. I kept the auto harness and wired everything correctly. My reverse lights work and I jumped the park/neutral switch to get the car to start.
I do not have the clutch switch wired. I this something that I need to have in order for the car to realize it is shifting? I have to shift extremely quick in order for it to stay running and if I don't it stalls out.
Perhaps this is a tuning issue?
Thanks in advance!
I do not have the clutch switch wired. I this something that I need to have in order for the car to realize it is shifting? I have to shift extremely quick in order for it to stay running and if I don't it stalls out.
Perhaps this is a tuning issue?
Thanks in advance!
Per these instructions?
Option A) This setup will be like a stock FD and you will be required to depress the clutch pedal to start the car.
-This option requires you to have a starter interlock switch mounted on your clutch pedal assembly. The starter interlock switch is a white rectangular looking box with a plunger and a short black wire coming off of it. The interlock switch is mounted on the left upper side of the clutch pedal assembly.
-Run two 12 gauge wires from the clutch pedal assembly area up into the dash above the pedal, under the radio section of your vehicle and down through the stick shift hole down to the transmission. I put the wire inside 1/4" or 3/8" wire loom to protect it.
Note: you need approximately 5-6' of wire x 2
-Connect an insulated Female 12 gauge 1/4" spade connector (yellow colored) to both ends of both wires. (Note: its important to use the right sized wire and connectors for this to ensure that you get enough juice through this circuit and back to your starter to start the vehicle.)
-Plug two connectors into the pale spade connectors on the starter interlock switch. Plug the other end of the cables into the # 8 and #9 pins on the Park / neutral connector (#1 above). These are the largest pins on the large grey connector with an orange center. The pins are interchangeable because order doesn't matter for this.
Sounds like this is only to get the car started. Correct me if I am wrong. Thanks!
Option A) This setup will be like a stock FD and you will be required to depress the clutch pedal to start the car.
-This option requires you to have a starter interlock switch mounted on your clutch pedal assembly. The starter interlock switch is a white rectangular looking box with a plunger and a short black wire coming off of it. The interlock switch is mounted on the left upper side of the clutch pedal assembly.
-Run two 12 gauge wires from the clutch pedal assembly area up into the dash above the pedal, under the radio section of your vehicle and down through the stick shift hole down to the transmission. I put the wire inside 1/4" or 3/8" wire loom to protect it.
Note: you need approximately 5-6' of wire x 2
-Connect an insulated Female 12 gauge 1/4" spade connector (yellow colored) to both ends of both wires. (Note: its important to use the right sized wire and connectors for this to ensure that you get enough juice through this circuit and back to your starter to start the vehicle.)
-Plug two connectors into the pale spade connectors on the starter interlock switch. Plug the other end of the cables into the # 8 and #9 pins on the Park / neutral connector (#1 above). These are the largest pins on the large grey connector with an orange center. The pins are interchangeable because order doesn't matter for this.
Sounds like this is only to get the car started. Correct me if I am wrong. Thanks!
Add some more rpm to the F/C, sounds like the computer isn't turning the injectors back online before it gets to low in the rpm range. Or adjust the dash pot on the throttle. It will help slow the throttle closing down to slow the engine to catch the fall
Also, how do I adjust the throttle as you described?
Sorry if I sound as if I need to be spoon fed. I am a complete noob at tuning. Thanks!
Look up dash pot on google. It takes I think a 14mm wrench and spinning it by hand to push it out more. Make sure it is working correctly.
On the F/C (Fuel Cut) I think you need a Datalogit to change, might be able to change it on the commander.
There is 7 settings on the page
Rpm limit
F/C electrical
F/C AC
F/C normal
Idle electrical
Idle AC
Idle normal.
Agian I'm not able to look them up currently but basically the F/C number is the rpm at witch the fuel injectors turn back on when the Tps is close to close (ie shifting off the gas). The higher the number the higher the engine will catch the fall
On the F/C (Fuel Cut) I think you need a Datalogit to change, might be able to change it on the commander.
There is 7 settings on the page
Rpm limit
F/C electrical
F/C AC
F/C normal
Idle electrical
Idle AC
Idle normal.
Agian I'm not able to look them up currently but basically the F/C number is the rpm at witch the fuel injectors turn back on when the Tps is close to close (ie shifting off the gas). The higher the number the higher the engine will catch the fall
Look up dash pot on google. It takes I think a 14mm wrench and spinning it by hand to push it out more. Make sure it is working correctly.
On the F/C (Fuel Cut) I think you need a Datalogit to change, might be able to change it on the commander.
There is 7 settings on the page
Rpm limit
F/C electrical
F/C AC
F/C normal
Idle electrical
Idle AC
Idle normal.
Agian I'm not able to look them up currently but basically the F/C number is the rpm at witch the fuel injectors turn back on when the Tps is close to close (ie shifting off the gas). The higher the number the higher the engine will catch the fall
On the F/C (Fuel Cut) I think you need a Datalogit to change, might be able to change it on the commander.
There is 7 settings on the page
Rpm limit
F/C electrical
F/C AC
F/C normal
Idle electrical
Idle AC
Idle normal.
Agian I'm not able to look them up currently but basically the F/C number is the rpm at witch the fuel injectors turn back on when the Tps is close to close (ie shifting off the gas). The higher the number the higher the engine will catch the fall
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