Does anyone have any experience tuning without any trailing plugs (anti-detonation device)? I would think that the leading ignition timing would have to be slighty more advanced compared that of a normal firing rotary. Any input would be helpful, thanks

 

Anyone?

 

You need an EGT gauge for that.

Jason

 

hey Jason, would you care to elaborate on your statement? I already have an EGT gauge, and I know the basic correlation between AFR/timing and the temperature of the exhaust gases. I would like to hear your professional opinion, you seem to have some experience with the "anti-detonation" device. THANKS

 

You can adjust the timing by monitoring the EGT gauge. That is really the only way to tune for the anti det. since you can advance the timing more with it. My opinion is I would not run the anti det. We have had many cars come in with blown engines using that device.

Jason

 

I've had the anti det in my car for over a year and a half, without any problems. I do, however, wish I could get these damn plugs out! I've tried to get them out of the housings, but it seems there is no way with the engine still together. Have you had any luck removing them? By the way, they are the ones that go inside the housings between the spark plug and the tapers hole. Thanks

 

All the ones we have had here just screw in like a spark plug. Not sure what they used on yours.

Jason

 

those are the old ones. . . before the guy that tried to rip the "design" off stepped into the picture.

whats it made of? can you use a magnet? i cant imagine them using a hammer or something to put it in there. . . so itd HAVE to be removable. . . maybe it screws in there? try hosing it down with pb blaster. . . that should loosen things up. . . let it soak for a night in that stuff.

 

I believe the original ones were made of aluminum (not magnetic) and they were just seated in there by use of the spark plug (i.e. they weren't screwed in). People have had luck removing them by unscrewing the trailing plug, and then cranking the engine. The compression of the engine should "pop" it out. Good luck!

-Rob

 

I've tried popping them out by using the engine's compression, with no luck. I could probably drive around with the trailing plugs out and still have them stuck in there... I have not tried doing this under boost, maybe that will work! Does any one else have any opinion on ignition tuning with no trailing? Thanks

 

Why do you want to remove them?

 

I want to remove them for several reasons:
1. I think I am losing some power by not having the extra spark (although not too much with some tuning)
2. Idle is not as strong and smooth as it should be, slight misfires
3. low end torque seems to be a little weak
4. Gas mileage could be better

I would also like to so some comparison testing to verify what having no trailing spark actually affects, SO.... I would like to be able to remove and replace them easily

 

If what Rob says is true, that is one f^cked up design. Can't believe anyone would even try something like that. Atleast the screw in design you coulg easily take out when you realized you didn't really gain anything.

Tim

 

you're damn right the design sucks. The ones I got are the old KDR ones. When I asked them how to take them out, they suggested super glue (didn't work). The only way I can think of is to weld the end of a little metal rod in there and pull these suckers out. But I don't need them out that badly. I guess they'll have to stay until I rebuild the engine, then I can punch them out from the inside.

 

I took apart a blown engine with these...

The ones in it were small aluminum plugs in the plug hole, that the sparkplug actually held in place. But even if you took the sparkplug out, the metal pieces still stayed in there.

Here is what I would try to get them out.

Remove one trailing sparkplug. Have someone crank the car with the EGI fuse removed and the throttle open...have your hand beside the plughole ready to catch the plug. Compression should pop the plug loose from the hole.

If that fails. I would take a long punch, maybe a 1/4" or so. As long as it fits into the plughole pretty freely. Put some superglue on the end of it, but wipe any extra off the sides so it doesnt get into the plughole threads. Carefully insert it and keep the tip from hitting the threads. Hold it flush against the plug until you feel it has dried. Then wiggle and pull lightly and see if the plug comes out. The devices that I removed had a hole cut in the middle of them that was exactly the size of the sparkplugs electrode...so there might be some advantage to doing this procedure with a punch that had a tip exactly that size, and could fit down inside that small hole...would give the glue more to grip onto. Youll want to verify fitment before using the glue, though.

 

i wroked for kdr till last july and had to take a few of the old alum. anti det caps out. What i use to do is take a drill bit and drill into them slightly then use an easy out bit. some are easier to get out then others.
Rodney

 

Is KDR still sellling these?

 

I dont know but I have a set I'll sell cheap

 

As far as I was concerned, they lost a lot of respect in my eyes selling crap like that.

Tim

 

Hi Mr. Tim Benton,

Can you please check your PM.On a different subject...Sorry guys,didn't mean to hi-jack.