Power FC Anti-detonation tuning?
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Anti-detonation tuning?
Does anyone have any experience tuning without any trailing plugs (anti-detonation device)? I would think that the leading ignition timing would have to be slighty more advanced compared that of a normal firing rotary. Any input would be helpful, thanks
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hey Jason, would you care to elaborate on your statement? I already have an EGT gauge, and I know the basic correlation between AFR/timing and the temperature of the exhaust gases. I would like to hear your professional opinion, you seem to have some experience with the "anti-detonation" device. THANKS
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I've had the anti det in my car for over a year and a half, without any problems. I do, however, wish I could get these damn plugs out! I've tried to get them out of the housings, but it seems there is no way with the engine still together. Have you had any luck removing them? By the way, they are the ones that go inside the housings between the spark plug and the tapers hole. Thanks
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#8
fart on a friends head!!!
those are the old ones. . . before the guy that tried to rip the "design" off stepped into the picture.
whats it made of? can you use a magnet? i cant imagine them using a hammer or something to put it in there. . . so itd HAVE to be removable. . . maybe it screws in there? try hosing it down with pb blaster. . . that should loosen things up. . . let it soak for a night in that stuff.
whats it made of? can you use a magnet? i cant imagine them using a hammer or something to put it in there. . . so itd HAVE to be removable. . . maybe it screws in there? try hosing it down with pb blaster. . . that should loosen things up. . . let it soak for a night in that stuff.
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Originally Posted by rotorbrain
those are the old ones. . . before the guy that tried to rip the "design" off stepped into the picture.
whats it made of? can you use a magnet? i cant imagine them using a hammer or something to put it in there. . . so itd HAVE to be removable. . . maybe it screws in there? try hosing it down with pb blaster. . . that should loosen things up. . . let it soak for a night in that stuff.
whats it made of? can you use a magnet? i cant imagine them using a hammer or something to put it in there. . . so itd HAVE to be removable. . . maybe it screws in there? try hosing it down with pb blaster. . . that should loosen things up. . . let it soak for a night in that stuff.
-Rob
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I've tried popping them out by using the engine's compression, with no luck. I could probably drive around with the trailing plugs out and still have them stuck in there... I have not tried doing this under boost, maybe that will work! Does any one else have any opinion on ignition tuning with no trailing? Thanks
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I want to remove them for several reasons:
1. I think I am losing some power by not having the extra spark (although not too much with some tuning)
2. Idle is not as strong and smooth as it should be, slight misfires
3. low end torque seems to be a little weak
4. Gas mileage could be better
I would also like to so some comparison testing to verify what having no trailing spark actually affects, SO.... I would like to be able to remove and replace them easily
1. I think I am losing some power by not having the extra spark (although not too much with some tuning)
2. Idle is not as strong and smooth as it should be, slight misfires
3. low end torque seems to be a little weak
4. Gas mileage could be better
I would also like to so some comparison testing to verify what having no trailing spark actually affects, SO.... I would like to be able to remove and replace them easily
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you're damn right the design sucks. The ones I got are the old KDR ones. When I asked them how to take them out, they suggested super glue (didn't work). The only way I can think of is to weld the end of a little metal rod in there and pull these suckers out. But I don't need them out that badly. I guess they'll have to stay until I rebuild the engine, then I can punch them out from the inside.
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I took apart a blown engine with these...
The ones in it were small aluminum plugs in the plug hole, that the sparkplug actually held in place. But even if you took the sparkplug out, the metal pieces still stayed in there.
Here is what I would try to get them out.
Remove one trailing sparkplug. Have someone crank the car with the EGI fuse removed and the throttle open...have your hand beside the plughole ready to catch the plug. Compression should pop the plug loose from the hole.
If that fails. I would take a long punch, maybe a 1/4" or so. As long as it fits into the plughole pretty freely. Put some superglue on the end of it, but wipe any extra off the sides so it doesnt get into the plughole threads. Carefully insert it and keep the tip from hitting the threads. Hold it flush against the plug until you feel it has dried. Then wiggle and pull lightly and see if the plug comes out. The devices that I removed had a hole cut in the middle of them that was exactly the size of the sparkplugs electrode...so there might be some advantage to doing this procedure with a punch that had a tip exactly that size, and could fit down inside that small hole...would give the glue more to grip onto. Youll want to verify fitment before using the glue, though.
The ones in it were small aluminum plugs in the plug hole, that the sparkplug actually held in place. But even if you took the sparkplug out, the metal pieces still stayed in there.
Here is what I would try to get them out.
Remove one trailing sparkplug. Have someone crank the car with the EGI fuse removed and the throttle open...have your hand beside the plughole ready to catch the plug. Compression should pop the plug loose from the hole.
If that fails. I would take a long punch, maybe a 1/4" or so. As long as it fits into the plughole pretty freely. Put some superglue on the end of it, but wipe any extra off the sides so it doesnt get into the plughole threads. Carefully insert it and keep the tip from hitting the threads. Hold it flush against the plug until you feel it has dried. Then wiggle and pull lightly and see if the plug comes out. The devices that I removed had a hole cut in the middle of them that was exactly the size of the sparkplugs electrode...so there might be some advantage to doing this procedure with a punch that had a tip exactly that size, and could fit down inside that small hole...would give the glue more to grip onto. Youll want to verify fitment before using the glue, though.
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