Can you adjust your idle with the PFC? If so how? Thanks.

 

Do you have the commander?

 

yes I do have the commander. So whats the secret? :-)

 

Here is the secret.... you add some water into your computer and connect both the positive and negative battery terminals with copper wire.....
and read this...

 

Get and read the manual. It is on-line and the URL has been posted too many times to remember.

 

Thanks for the help fellas. Well I been messing around with the idle screws and bleeder screw and almost there. But I did notice is that When I first start the car especially with cold motor, the idle surges between about 850-940rpms for about the first 5-6 minutes. At times it seems to almost wanna die but doesn't. Maybe I need to adjust the revs some more on the PFC?

 

Well I've come along way with my idle problem. My only problem is when I first start the car the idle goes to about 950 rpm then drops down to about 475rpms and almost wants to die. Almost seems like a piston motor with a large cam, it does that for about 10 minutes. Another problem is when I'm cruising say in 3 rd gear and come to a stop a stop sign (shift into neutral). The revs drop all the way down to about 525rpms and almost dies before the rpms climb back up to about 875 rpms. Im thinking too much fuel at idle for the idle problem and I'm thinking I need to adjust the rev rpm setting on the PFC. What does everythink? Chuck? Thanks..

 

Sounds like the cold start assist system is not working. That is the AWS and hot wax rod unit.

Many of us have the AWS taken off or deactivated. This is what causes the 3000rpm short duration start.

The hot wax rod unit controls the complete cold start cycle, It is located on the right side of the throttle body towards the firewall. It does have an adjusting screw. Read about it.


Or you can use the commander and add more fuel for cold start.

I learned most of my knowledge not from the forum, but reading/studying the manuals and trying what that show.

 

.

 

Chuck thanks for the help again. Using the commander how exactly to you add more fuel at idle? Also what do you think the problem is with my dropping rpm when I shift to neutral coming to a stop? The car seems to almost want to die when I come to a stop. Thanks.

 

For the second part of your problem
https://www.rx7club.com/power-fc-forum-47/high-low-rpm-360808/

 

Thanks again for the help guys. From reading the link in the last reply, when you say increase the rpms to the cut off points on the PFC I'm assuming you mean to increase the rpms on the F/C E/L in the Rev/Idle menu? Also I'm wondering if my TPS voltage is ok. I'm running no ISC, no AWS, no airpump, no a/c, no power steering. Another weird thing is that after I start the car and run it for about 15 minutes or so and shut it off. The car won't restart without applying a little throttle with clutch pedal in. Its really strange. Dunno.... hope every has good ideas. Thanks.

My Rev Idle menu looks like this right now.

Rev Limit 7900 TPS: VTA1 .54v closed throttle
F/C A-E 1100 rpm VTA2 1.16v closed throttle
F/C E/L 1150 rpm(add rpms here?)
F/C A/C 1200rpm VTA1 4.25v Full Throttle
Idle A-E 700 rpm VTA2 4.97v Full Throttle
Idle E/L 750 rpm
Idle A/C 900 rpm

 

With no ISC I found idle control best with the three idle rpms set to 0 (datalogit needed here). With my light fw's tendency to die when clutching in at a stop sign I set the F/C's all to 1500 so the injectors would kick on earlier as rpms drop. I also run the dashpot in to slow the throttle plates from closing too fast.

With no ISC and no wax rod you will be in more control of your idle. I removed my wax rod and the radiator lines from the TB. Once this is done it is simply a matter of setting your bleed screws on the TB and the fuel in the PFC. Use the water temp corrections to adjust fuel for warmup conditions. Only warning is that a heat soaked IAT can affect idle quality if you tune for the leanest possible idle. Go another 2-3% richer than leanest possible smooth idle when the IAT is not heat soaked and you should be ok.

 

TPS=
VTA1 0.54v closed throttle
VTA2 1.16v closed throttle
VTA1 4.25v Full Throttle
VTA2 4.97v Full Throttle

That look right?

 

Ok solved my idle problems and shifting into neutral problems. Now my only problem left is after the car has been fully warmed up, and I shut the car off. She won't restart. She just starts and idles really low for a couple of seconds and dies. I have to bleep the throttle a couple times right after I start her to keep from dying. Oh and I really..... really appreciate the help you guys have given me so far. THANKS..!!! Tony