Ok. First of all, ****.

Now that we've got that out of the way, I'll detail the car:

• 13b-re cosmo motor w/t2 tranny
• FD twin turbo's adapted to work with cosmo motor
• All accessories on motor are stock cosmo, except the power steering
• 550/1000CC injectors
• PowerFC EMS

[/LIST]

I am obviously not listing everything that was done to the car, but I feel that these are the items that are necessary for diagnosis.

When I start the car, it turns over for a second, fires once or twice and stumbles, then fires for a 3rd time and comes alive, every time. Revvs up to around 1300 (probably fast idle keeping it up there since its only 16degC out). It will stay at around 1300 for 5 seconds and then die. Every time, same thing. It's like it just cut's fuel after the 5 seconds. (injectors drop to 1.9% duty??)

I pressure tested the intake for vac leaks and I found a few (one was a primary injector o-ring that didn't make it on. That one took a friggin long time to find). After they were fixed, same thing. I turned the idle bleed screw all the way in and backed it out half a turn.

My wide band tells me its rich, too. But then again, don't most cars put in excess fuel when cranking?

I'll post up a log from fc-edit of what's going on. Maybe someone who is used to seeing the numbers in logs can catch something that I am missing. Hopefully.

This is really starting to bug me because I've put hundreds of hours into this project and I want to finally see some damn results!

 

Do you have a datalogit? If so, try to log the few secs it is running and post the results.

 

Ok I uploaded the log file. I logged pretty much every variable that the datalogit will log.

I also posted the map watch of my wideband. Kind of useless since it only recorded 5 secs of data.

Last but not least is a pic of the engine bay for good measure :P

 

Anyone see anything that looks way off?

The only thing that catches my eye is the "Oil" column, which I am guessing is oil pressure. Why is it 101 (what are the units?) when the engine is off, and drops to low 20's when it ran at 1200 rpm...?


any and all help is much appreciated.

 

Your wideband must have been powered by the accessory circuit. It's turning off when the key is in the "ON" position (the logs say 0 volts, which corresponds to the 9:1 you are seeing), and then it needs to warm back up but doesn't have time. So it never gets working before the car cuts off. Your factory narrowband doesn't appear to be hooked up either, but it's not needed for the PFC and it doesn't have a heater (1 wire sensor) so it would be useless anyway. So you are flying blind. The "oil" thing has nothing to do with oil pressure. The factory ECU (and PFC) don't read oil pressure, it must be some unit in the PFC to indicate oil flow through the OMP stepper motor.

Does the car stay alive if you give it enough throttle? If there are no mechanical/electrical issues and I had to take a wild guess, it needs more fuel at idle. I've seen that kind of thing happen when there isn't enough water temp correction or if the basemap just doesn't have enough fuel in the idle area for a particular car.

On the commander go to IGL/T, Fi screen. That is the diagnostic screen that will allow you to add fuel which will go away when the key turns off. Add up to 10% more fuel there before you start the car next and see what happens. Try to give it throttle to keep it alive, long enough so the wideband warms up. Then you might find the AFR leaning out if you let the rpms drop, indicating too little fuel at idle. That's exactly what I encountered on my car the first time I tried to start it on a PFC with a map I had gotten that didn't work well for my setup.

 

Are you really trying to start it without any coolant? I do not see a radiator.

If that is the current picture, it looks like you have both the primary and secondary turbo intakes plugged, this is how the engine gets air, it will not run with rags stuffed in them.

 

What, you dont run your car without a radiator?

It's an old picture.

Arghx - good eye -- its an LM-1 which is powered by the cig lighter, and I didn't think about it turning off when I key On. I'll try messing around with the fuel and the throttle to see if I can keep it on for long enough.

 

Alright so I gave it some throttle right after it starts and I built the revs to around 3 grand and the same thing happens. Just dies even if I keep my foot on the throttle at the same position. Something is definitely being cut, either fuel or spark.

Does the PFC have programed cut points for certain events?

I attached the log showing what happens. 5.8 seconds into the log, the injector duty just drops, even tho VTA1 and VTA 2 stay the same.

 

How do you have the fuel pump wired? Do you have it on it's own relay or are you running it through the fuel pump resistor relay?

If you do not have it on it's own relay, put a jumper wire in the yellow FP tester an see if the pump stays running, then start the car.

What map sensor are you using? GM 3 bar? Is this our PFC kit? Is the PFC set up for the correct sensor?

 

I did all my own wiring, but used the resources on your website extensively. I owe you guys at Banzai a great many thanks as I would not have been able to get this far without your well documented cosmo 'Vert conversion.

The sensor being used is a stock FD sensor, and I have not touched the sensor calibration curve in the PFC.

The fuel pump is on the standard S5 fuel pump relay. You think that the PFC might be shutting it off after the 5 seconds? I'll try jumpering the FP tester.

 

haha.. wow..

Jumpering the fuel pump test connector worked! It runs! and idles! sa-weet

I guess I owe you another big thanks. But now -- can you tell me why it worked? Why won't the FP stay on ? I am guessing I can't leave the connector jumpered forever.

 

Wire the pump up to 12V constant with a relay. You do not have the circuit opening relay wired correctly, this is why it is shutting off after a few seconds. The COR is looking for a signal from the AFM which is no longer active. Our harness adapter addresses this issue.

 

If your harness addresses the issue, could I not wire it as you have?

AS a side not for all others who wish to put a PFC into something other than an FD, BUY THE HARNESS. Even if your time is only worth 10$ an hour, you still SAVE money in buying their harness!

 

^ not to mention having a patch harness that you can tap stuff into without cutting the factory harness