Engine swaps for the FC?
#26
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Nebraska
Posts: 76
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by cwsttu
i dont have xray vision or anything but id know you dont have a rotary..... you forgot the sound of a rotary is like no other, its a dead giveaway
Later
#27
Former Moderator. RIP Icemark.
Originally Posted by IaMtHeRuThLeSs1
$5,000? for a 13bt swap, damn that sux... I'm doing a V-8 swap for less than 5k...325hp on a stock engine...
Edit - Last sentence deleted because it no longer applies to this thread now that it has been moved to the Other Engine Conversions forum. - Evil Aviator
Last edited by Evil Aviator; 03-10-05 at 06:14 PM.
#28
What about a 300zx twin turbo engine and tranny. A 2800 pd. car running around 290 at the wheels stock. That would be bad ***. That would be what I wil go for. I already know what kind of modifications that I would need to do this. But I am not sure if it would fit. If anybody knows what the demisions are between the two engines are please hit me back. The 50/50 weight ratio would be thrown in the trash though but maybe not to bad though. Well that is my opnion.
#29
Green Flameless
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: North Central PA
Posts: 2,242
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by Icemark
That is incorrect. A and B (and even J & G) are widths, not revisions.
That is why there were 10A, 13A, 15A, and even 21A Mazda rotary engines.
Please do not post incorrect information like that. It only hurts newbies that might actually believe you.
That is why there were 10A, 13A, 15A, and even 21A Mazda rotary engines.
Please do not post incorrect information like that. It only hurts newbies that might actually believe you.
Sorry to spread incorrect information, I honestly did not realize that it wasn'ta revision number, as I had been lead to believe by a couple of different sites I have seen.
How does the widths thing work? I know that the 13B is 10MM larger than the 12A, and so on... so where does the the width of the model number come into play?
#30
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Sparland, Illinois
Posts: 272
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The title of the thread is "Engine Swaps for the FC" not "ROTARY Engine Swaps for the FC". Discussing pistons swaps is fair game. However I agree that the V8 vs. Rotary argument should be referenced in the numerous other threads that already exist.
In the true sense of the thread I will post options and estimated costs.
Performance 13B NA build. Depending on what you are looking for, NA is not necessarily "bad". You may want to cruise the NA forum for more details but an NA 13B can be made to make 180-200 HP fairly reliably. In a light car (think, early S4 with no sunroof) this would be plenty of power to have fun. Also would be fairly inexpensive (note, I did not say cheap). You could also stick with an NA differential and related suspension as the relatively low torque of the NA rotary would probably not harm any of the stock parts (bonus, as they are there on the car already, and free). Ditto for the brakes / four lug hardware. No need to upgrade in a light car, optimize what you have. I would estimate you could take a light S4 and rebuild a very decent 13B NA for it for under $2k. NA engines are cheap because people chunk them all the time for turbo motors... have seen them from free-$400 or so.
Performance 13BT build / swap. Usually easier if you start with a car that is already a turbo, but not a huge deal if you do not. The supply is starting to (IMO) dry up on the Jspec engines, which are becoming fewer in number and lesser in quality (just look at Jspec prices over the last year or two and you will see what I mean - up to 50% increase in prices and many are doing away with start-up guarantees). If you want a fast rotary this is the way to go. A tad more expensive - Jspec motors are around $1000-$1400 for 13BT's before shipping and you will need ancilliaries such as the MAF Meter, airbox, downpipe and exhaust, computer, harness, etc etc etc. So I would budget $2500-3000 without a rebuild. Keep in mind you can sell some of your NA stuff but NA stuff is not really worth much.
Edit - First paragraph deleted because it no longer applies to this thread now that it has been moved to the Other Engine Conversions forum. - Evil Aviator
In the true sense of the thread I will post options and estimated costs.
Performance 13B NA build. Depending on what you are looking for, NA is not necessarily "bad". You may want to cruise the NA forum for more details but an NA 13B can be made to make 180-200 HP fairly reliably. In a light car (think, early S4 with no sunroof) this would be plenty of power to have fun. Also would be fairly inexpensive (note, I did not say cheap). You could also stick with an NA differential and related suspension as the relatively low torque of the NA rotary would probably not harm any of the stock parts (bonus, as they are there on the car already, and free). Ditto for the brakes / four lug hardware. No need to upgrade in a light car, optimize what you have. I would estimate you could take a light S4 and rebuild a very decent 13B NA for it for under $2k. NA engines are cheap because people chunk them all the time for turbo motors... have seen them from free-$400 or so.
Performance 13BT build / swap. Usually easier if you start with a car that is already a turbo, but not a huge deal if you do not. The supply is starting to (IMO) dry up on the Jspec engines, which are becoming fewer in number and lesser in quality (just look at Jspec prices over the last year or two and you will see what I mean - up to 50% increase in prices and many are doing away with start-up guarantees). If you want a fast rotary this is the way to go. A tad more expensive - Jspec motors are around $1000-$1400 for 13BT's before shipping and you will need ancilliaries such as the MAF Meter, airbox, downpipe and exhaust, computer, harness, etc etc etc. So I would budget $2500-3000 without a rebuild. Keep in mind you can sell some of your NA stuff but NA stuff is not really worth much.
Edit - First paragraph deleted because it no longer applies to this thread now that it has been moved to the Other Engine Conversions forum. - Evil Aviator
Last edited by Evil Aviator; 03-10-05 at 06:17 PM.
#31
Play Well
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: We're all fine here now, thank you. How are you?
Posts: 4,218
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
putting a v-8 in the car. Wouldnt that ruin the balance of the car. You could go real fast in a strait line but thats no fun. And it wouldnt sound so cool.
#32
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Sparland, Illinois
Posts: 272
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by fcdrifter13
putting a v-8 in the car. Wouldnt that ruin the balance of the car. You could go real fast in a strait line but thats no fun. And it wouldnt sound so cool.
#33
No rotary, no problems?
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Dubuque, IA
Posts: 1,567
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I see someone decided to bring my topic back!
I have been thinking quite a bit about the RX-7's as of late, and decided that if I could get my hands on one, I'd like to try and keep it original. The bad thing about this is that means I'll have reliability issues with the 13BT motor. I would love to get my hands on a 350, mate it with a 4 speed manual and plop that in too, cause I'm sure we all know that would make one fun car. I would love to keep the original turbo rotary engine, but rebuilding one seems like it's not worth the cost when I could put a V8 in there for the same price and have better reliability. How much do rebuilds usually cost for a 13BT?
I have been thinking quite a bit about the RX-7's as of late, and decided that if I could get my hands on one, I'd like to try and keep it original. The bad thing about this is that means I'll have reliability issues with the 13BT motor. I would love to get my hands on a 350, mate it with a 4 speed manual and plop that in too, cause I'm sure we all know that would make one fun car. I would love to keep the original turbo rotary engine, but rebuilding one seems like it's not worth the cost when I could put a V8 in there for the same price and have better reliability. How much do rebuilds usually cost for a 13BT?
#34
Rotary Freak
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 1,579
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
you cannot drop in an oldschool 350 V8 with a 4 speed and expect the car to handle as well as with a rotary... the older motors just weigh too much and have their weight high up if they are carb'd. it is an inexpensive swap though.... you could source a 350 for under $1000 and get the mounting equipment and driveshaft, etc for under $1000 more. selling off whatever motor is currently in your RX7 makes that project pretty damn cheap.
I sourced an LS1, this is a 1998+ chevy 346 V8, its all aluminum and fuel injection and fits under a stock non-turbo hood, used mounts from Hinson and you could do a similar swap in any FC for under $5000 total... if you find the LS1 cheap enough. I found mine for $1500 and a 6 speed tranny for another $925. Adding on the mounting equipment and required system upgrades (fuel, cooling, Turbo-II rear end, etc) the swap is not that much money in comparison to building up a rotary motor that will produce similar HP as a stock LS1. we're talking 330hp and 350tq with a 6speed tranny and its barely adding 40-50 pounds to the nose of the car, thats nothing in comparison to the 2600-2900 piound FC chassis.
anyhow, for guys with NO money... keep the stock motor, rebuild it if need be. there is only one way to make an FC hella fast and thats ''dumping money into it''. So, whatever motor you choose to modify, its all money in that engine bay when your done.
I sourced an LS1, this is a 1998+ chevy 346 V8, its all aluminum and fuel injection and fits under a stock non-turbo hood, used mounts from Hinson and you could do a similar swap in any FC for under $5000 total... if you find the LS1 cheap enough. I found mine for $1500 and a 6 speed tranny for another $925. Adding on the mounting equipment and required system upgrades (fuel, cooling, Turbo-II rear end, etc) the swap is not that much money in comparison to building up a rotary motor that will produce similar HP as a stock LS1. we're talking 330hp and 350tq with a 6speed tranny and its barely adding 40-50 pounds to the nose of the car, thats nothing in comparison to the 2600-2900 piound FC chassis.
anyhow, for guys with NO money... keep the stock motor, rebuild it if need be. there is only one way to make an FC hella fast and thats ''dumping money into it''. So, whatever motor you choose to modify, its all money in that engine bay when your done.
#36
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Sparland, Illinois
Posts: 272
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by Ice_Wolf
I would love to keep the original turbo rotary engine, but rebuilding one seems like it's not worth the cost when I could put a V8 in there for the same price and have better reliability. How much do rebuilds usually cost for a 13BT?
If you buy a Jspec motor, this is a good time to clean / refreshen as well. Some folks have great luck with these motors, popping them and running them immediately. I've heard someone say that Jspec motors are perfect for rebuilding and I would have to agree. Cheap and easy, just some cleaning and really gives you a hands on as to whats going on in the motor.
However if you blow a motor or otherwise damage it before rebuilding it, it can trash alot of expensive parts. If you can find used rotors and housings they are usually $300-$500 or more for a pair. Breaking an apex seal often wipes out the rotor and housing and sometimes damages the irons. So a rebuild after the fact might mean a couple thousand dollars.
It's all up to you and what you want. I wouldn't settle on a certain type of motor until I asked myself what I want and how much I would pay as those are two very important factors. Are you mostly driving in traffic, squirting from light to light, which would be easy with a motor with lots of torque? I'd recommend a V8. Do you want a unique motor that can make good power but requires specialized knowledge? Go rotary. Want to go fast for very cheap? I'd say piston but it all depends.
I'd recommend reading some of the rotary vs piston threads (no need to rehash here) and if you have specific questions let me know. Each have their positives and negatives.
#37
RX-347
iTrader: (2)
Well, Mark must not be around, they fear piston swaps around here, this will be moved/deleted before the end of the day, don't want to let the word out...
The thing to keep in mind with the rotary engines, is that a rebuilt engine does not guarantee "trouble free" operation. A mazda built, moderately low milage rotary will run for a long time if it's properly taken care of. Don't let fear of a "stock" ~100K mile motor turn you from a car, that's an engine you KNOW was built properly, as opposed to a rebuild that could be done by anyone.
This is a moot point if it's a rebuild from a reputable rebuilder (Mazda Reman, Rotary Resurrection, etc). Just another concept to think about.
The thing to keep in mind with the rotary engines, is that a rebuilt engine does not guarantee "trouble free" operation. A mazda built, moderately low milage rotary will run for a long time if it's properly taken care of. Don't let fear of a "stock" ~100K mile motor turn you from a car, that's an engine you KNOW was built properly, as opposed to a rebuild that could be done by anyone.
This is a moot point if it's a rebuild from a reputable rebuilder (Mazda Reman, Rotary Resurrection, etc). Just another concept to think about.
#38
http://acostamotorsports.com/html/in...category&cid=3
Look there they put 20bs in, supra engines and even skylines... Prices are crazy but hell your pushing out liek 800hp
Look there they put 20bs in, supra engines and even skylines... Prices are crazy but hell your pushing out liek 800hp
#39
rx3 wita panic button
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: compton
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by Icemark
That is incorrect. A and B (and even J & G) are widths, not revisions.
That is why there were 10A, 13A, 15A, and even 21A Mazda rotary engines.
Please do not post incorrect information like that. It only hurts newbies that might actually believe you.
That is why there were 10A, 13A, 15A, and even 21A Mazda rotary engines.
Please do not post incorrect information like that. It only hurts newbies that might actually believe you.
#40
No rotary, no problems?
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Dubuque, IA
Posts: 1,567
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Alright, first of all, you don't have to worry about me getting a JSpec motor. I will be using the original motor over again if I decide to rebuild. Not to mention I have no clue where I'd get a JSpec motor from anyways or what the advantages to it are. And no, 600 bucks is not a bad price at all for a rebuild kit. What happens when you blow a rotary motor? I'm guessing the rotor mashes into the side wall and destroys some stuff? That basically means that at about 80 or so compression, you'd wanna rebuild to make sure you don't blow anything up. Most of my driving will be highway driving, and the only time the car will get abuse is when I take it to the track maybe twice a year. The main reason I wanted to keep the rotary is because I want a high revving beast that's got a high top speed. Also, I've never been a big fan of carburation, that's the only reason I don't like old motors. I'm a lot more partial to fuel injection. I also love the uniqueness of a rotary engine and that it's something special to have instead of the usual cars.
#41
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Sparland, Illinois
Posts: 272
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by Ice_Wolf
Alright, first of all, you don't have to worry about me getting a JSpec motor. I will be using the original motor over again if I decide to rebuild. Not to mention I have no clue where I'd get a JSpec motor from anyways or what the advantages to it are. And no, 600 bucks is not a bad price at all for a rebuild kit. What happens when you blow a rotary motor? I'm guessing the rotor mashes into the side wall and destroys some stuff? That basically means that at about 80 or so compression, you'd wanna rebuild to make sure you don't blow anything up. Most of my driving will be highway driving, and the only time the car will get abuse is when I take it to the track maybe twice a year. The main reason I wanted to keep the rotary is because I want a high revving beast that's got a high top speed. Also, I've never been a big fan of carburation, that's the only reason I don't like old motors. I'm a lot more partial to fuel injection. I also love the uniqueness of a rotary engine and that it's something special to have instead of the usual cars.
Sounds like you will be happy with the rotary and it will suit your purposes exactly and your plan is a solid one. After you rebuild, before you do ANY mods.. I would suggest getting a full complement of gauges so you know what is going on inside that motor. A good boost gauge, a wide band 02 sensor and monitor, good temperature gauge (since heat is a rotary killer), etc. That way when you do mod... you won't blow your motor, at least due to ignorance of whats going on inside your motor.
2 FYI's.. Jspec's are just pullout motors from Japanese market cars that have been junked. They are not really advantageous except as a rebuildable core with low miles. The other FYI is you do not have to go carb if you did a V8 RX7 (which like I said doesn't really fit your requirements anyways). My friend has a carb'd 383 Chevy in his FB and I will likely have an FI'd 302 / 331 in my FC.
#42
Rotary Freak
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 1,579
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by Ice_Wolf
The main reason I wanted to keep the rotary is because I want a high revving beast that's got a high top speed.
Originally Posted by Ice_Wolf
Also, I've never been a big fan of carburation, that's the only reason I don't like old motors. I'm a lot more partial to fuel injection.
Originally Posted by Ice_Wolf
I also love the uniqueness of a rotary engine and that it's something special to have instead of the usual cars.
#43
Originally Posted by LookThatsMe
http://acostamotorsports.com/html/in...category&cid=3
Look there they put 20bs in, supra engines and even skylines... Prices are crazy but hell your pushing out liek 800hp
Look there they put 20bs in, supra engines and even skylines... Prices are crazy but hell your pushing out liek 800hp
Many spelling mistakes throughout that site.
4" STAINLESS STEAL DOWNPIPE
CABRON FIBER DOOR STILL
#44
Yes, that is my name.
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Santa Cruz Mtns
Posts: 519
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by cwsttu
... you forgot the sound of a rotary is like no other, its a dead giveaway
Sorry for the useless opinion. I just had to get it out.
#45
kill it with BOOMSTICK!
I am also interested in how the letter designation after engine codes (i.e. 12A, 13B) works. Icemark touched on it, but didn't make it clear.
Edit - First two paragraphs deleted because they no longer apply to this thread now that it has been moved to the Other Engine Conversions forum. - Evil Aviator
Edit - First two paragraphs deleted because they no longer apply to this thread now that it has been moved to the Other Engine Conversions forum. - Evil Aviator
Last edited by Evil Aviator; 03-10-05 at 06:33 PM.
#46
Rotorhead
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Charlottesville, Virginia, USA
Posts: 9,136
Likes: 0
Received 39 Likes
on
33 Posts
I think that this thread has come to the point that a simple rebuild is the best answer. However, I will re-open the thead in case anybody would like to add anything.
Hint - Icemark is NOT correct. I will post the answer to that question IF everybody behaves after I re-open this thread. If the flames continue, then I will be quite content going through life knowing something that you guys don't.
Originally Posted by WonkoTheSane
How does the widths thing work? I know that the 13B is 10MM larger than the 12A, and so on... so where does the the width of the model number come into play?
Last edited by Evil Aviator; 03-10-05 at 07:40 PM.
#47
No rotary, no problems?
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Dubuque, IA
Posts: 1,567
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Too late, already started a new thread about it. Go here for the new thread.
https://www.rx7club.com/other-engine-conversions-non-v-8-118/engine-swaps-fc-part-2-a-403391/
https://www.rx7club.com/other-engine-conversions-non-v-8-118/engine-swaps-fc-part-2-a-403391/
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
trickster
2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992)
25
07-01-23 04:40 PM
Azevedo
Other Engine Conversions - non V-8
26
03-01-19 09:19 PM
maikelc
3rd Generation Specific (1993-2002)
8
08-24-15 11:04 AM