Other Engine Conversions - non V-8 Discussion of non-rotary engines, exc V-8's, in a car originally powered by a Rotary Engine.

13b-t vs LS1 vs SR20 swap!?

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 02-14-08, 05:19 PM
  #151  
Senior Member

iTrader: (1)
 
rosey's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: WI
Posts: 535
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by TehMonkay
It makes as much power as a 2.6L engine because it doesnt waste an engine rotation on compressing the mixture, thats why it's so efficient volumetrically you ******* retard.

And yes, i know its thermally inefficient, thats why it gets bad gas mileage etc etc.

Still doesnt change the fact, that the "Displacement", for all of the morons out there, look up the definition, is 1.3L.
Once again you show your inability to read. Maybe thats why you don't like ls1s? Too complex for ya? Guess some people can't understand more than two spinning doritos.

Originally Posted by TehMonkay
In addition, the comparison i set up, is to see how much fast each platform is with a certain amount of money. Not whichever engine rosey likes better in their car.
All that matters to me is what I like better, the problem is solved from my point of view. Having some borderline retards giving my worthless opinions isn't going to change what I already know.
Old 02-14-08, 05:20 PM
  #152  
The Silent but Deadly Mod

iTrader: (2)
 
Roen's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: NYC/T.O.
Posts: 4,047
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts
Originally Posted by rosey
Sorry, but when comparing rotary engines to piston engines, you must count a 13b as 2.6 liters, so 2.6l*300hp/l=780hp. I assumed you'd know that much being such a well educated rotary expert.



No. This is a section for people to share information regarding other engine conversions. If people don't already know both sides they should be banned from the forum because they obviously are incapable of using the search button.



I still don't see what there is to solve? I've driven my car with a modded TII engine, and I've driven it with an ls1. I like it way better with the ls1 and it is faster in every way then it ever would have been with the rotary engine. It is my car so I'm going to build it how I want it, problem solved. Now GTFO!



google anyone?

http://lgmotorsports.com/gallery/thumbnails.php?album=3

ecu rev limit is adjustable, redline is when they stop making power

T56
2.66
1.78
1.30
1.0
0.74
0.5

Stock rx7 r&p is 3.9 or 4.1
The GM ECU rev limit is adjustable?

That means, redline is equal to peak hp, since after that, they stop increasing in power? or is it set somewhere afterwards?

The T56 mates into the stock RX-7 rear end? Didn't know that.
Old 02-14-08, 05:26 PM
  #153  
Pretty as a $20 whore

iTrader: (1)
 
Eat-Pez's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Greenville, SC
Posts: 595
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by RETed
...and a custom exhaust, right?
And how much does all of that labor cost from a competent shop?
My exhaust guy has charged me around $120 - $150 to make my Y pipe. Long tubes come down to about the shifter handle, so the Y is only about 3ft long. It will bolt right up to the catback. Takes him about an hour and a half. He's done 3 for me and is doing another as I type this. I was planning on taking him 2 today, but the 1st one took me longer than expected to complete.

Originally Posted by RETed
Or are you assuming that the average Joe can do all of that without any problems?
If you can weld. Most guys doing a motor swap are pretty compitent with fabrication. If you can't, see above.

Originally Posted by RETed
Now you're assuming anyone can port heads?
That's just as bad as assuming anyone can port a 13B...
Well, you've got to start sometime. Porting is very easy, just takes time and attention to detail. Either pay me $400 and I'll do it, buy a bit for $45 and an instructional video for $30, or buy some after market heads for $1000.

For the 13b, download the templates, mark the housings, and rock and roll. I've ported 13bs too. Took minutes compared to V8 heads.


Originally Posted by RETed
I never said it was "cheep[sic]".
I said it was "trivial".
HKS cast turbo manifold + any # of turbos from eBay + custom plumbing + EMS + Walbro fuel pump = 400hp
No, that ain't cheap, but it's still within the $3k - $4k budget for an LS1 + trans.
HAHA $400??? any decent turbo is $400 alone. Are you talking about the Chinese turbos that have had numerous reports of cracking down the middle of the hotside?

HKS cast turbo mani, ebay, $340 + $25 ship
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/HKS-C...em200199089086
intercooler and piping, $199 + $50 ship
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/INTER...em250214038113
EMS $1490
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/AEM-E...em220201586060
walbro $99
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mazda...em220200059445

And turbos range from $200 for the Chinese ones, to $600 for a good one.

My math says about $2500, and that doesn't count the bigger injectors, and all the nickle and dime **** that is gonna get you along the way. Let's just go ahead and say $3000. O, wait. How much is an LS1 pullout now?

Originally Posted by RETed
Those $ figrues are not common down here.
How often do you shop for LS1 stuff? Those figures aren't common for around here either. BUT DEALS CAN BE HAD!! I've paid $4500 for a pullout as well, so figures vary greatly, it just depends on how much you search and how long you're willing to wait.

Originally Posted by RETed
All I'm questioning is the costs involved on doing this conversion.
Look at the thread subject - this is a debate between the motors listed.
Questions are queries, so WTF does this have to do with "bringing any info to the table"?
Well, you keep asking questions and providing little information, like we're the ones in the wrong. You seem to be asking a question and expect an answer that will win your case, but we bring info that doesn't give you the answer you want, and you ignore it and ask another.

Originally Posted by RETed
I've posted links to me references, and I'm sure all you bitches gonna say is that it's overpriced.
Kinda like what you've done with my price breakdown?

Originally Posted by RETed
I buy used rotor housings for under $200 a pair off eBay shipped to me in Hawaii.
I buy used heads for $150 a pair shipped.

Originally Posted by RETed
I buy used side housings for under $400 for a set of 3 off eBay shipped to me in Hawaii.
I buy used blocks for $200 shipped

Originally Posted by RETed
I buy used rotors for under $300 for a pair off eBay shipped to me in Hawaii.
I've got used pistons and cranks laying in the garage. And when it's all over, I'll have 350+hp (depending on how many, if any, mods are added to the motor during the build), that I can beat on all day long, all year long, get 25+mpgs, buy parts for it at the local NAPA, and kick every Mustang's *** in town.

Originally Posted by RETed
Rebuilding a 13B is trivial to me.
And an LS1 to me

Originally Posted by RETed
There's a reason why you all went V8, right?
Yes. Tons of reasons that have all been listed on this thread and countless others.
Old 02-14-08, 05:26 PM
  #154  
Back in the game

iTrader: (-1)
 
TehMonkay's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Louisville KY
Posts: 2,456
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Originally Posted by rosey
Once again you show your inability to read. Maybe thats why you don't like ls1s? Too complex for ya? Guess some people can't understand more than two spinning doritos.



All that matters to me is what I like better, the problem is solved from my point of view. Having some borderline retards giving my worthless opinions isn't going to change what I already know.
What inability to read? How about your inability to comprehend anything i just said, it displaces 1.3l, it is a 1.3l engine, there is nothing else to it.

If all you care about is what you like better, and you've already figured that out, why the hell are you even here.

You havent brought a single useful point to your side of the arguement, you've just been a complete troll.

And yes, LS1s are too complex, along with every other piston engine, engines only need 3 main moving parts to work, why add a bunch of other crap that can break.
Old 02-14-08, 05:30 PM
  #155  
Senior Member

iTrader: (1)
 
rosey's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: WI
Posts: 535
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by Roen
The GM ECU rev limit is adjustable?
Just about every value and parameter on the gm pcm is fully adjustable, including all the fuel and spark tables, and the rev limit etc... by using easily available software such as efilive, hptuners, or ls1edit. Some software even lets you run a custom operating system to add things like nitrous fuel/spark modifiers or to help tune in speed density, alpha-n, or a combination of maf and speed density/alpha-n. You can download a trial version of efilive for free on their website and download a tune to look around in if your really interested.

Originally Posted by Roen
That means, redline is equal to peak hp, since after that, they stop increasing in power? or is it set somewhere afterwards?
Where an engine makes power is determined by a lot of factors, mostly the intake design, head flow, and camshaft selection. Shift points will be determined by where the power curve flattens off. Usually "redline" is a couple hundred rpms after the hp peak.

Originally Posted by Roen
The T56 mates into the stock RX-7 rear end? Didn't know that.
Yes, I even used a driveshaft out of an 80s corvette with a mazda rear flange to mate the two - very easy and cheap.
Old 02-14-08, 05:30 PM
  #156  
Back in the game

iTrader: (-1)
 
TehMonkay's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Louisville KY
Posts: 2,456
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Build it right the first time, it's all you need to do.

I know someone locally who has a stock T2 with 130K miles, doesnt flood, no hot start issues, makes plenty of power. Original engine and everything, it was maintained and that's all there is to it.
Old 02-14-08, 05:31 PM
  #157  
Pretty as a $20 whore

iTrader: (1)
 
Eat-Pez's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Greenville, SC
Posts: 595
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by Roen
The GM ECU rev limit is adjustable?
Yes

Originally Posted by Roen
That means, redline is equal to peak hp, since after that, they stop increasing in power? or is it set somewhere afterwards?
Redline is not set at peak hp. Look at my dynograph I posted a page or 2 back

Originally Posted by Roen
The T56 mates into the stock RX-7 rear end? Didn't know that.
No, T56 mates to a GM driveshaft, that driveshaft will mate to a RX7 rear with a Chrylster flange. It has the exact same bolt pattern and hubcentric ring as the RX7 but will accept a GM U joint. Chrylster flange is $25-$40 depending on where you get it.
Old 02-14-08, 05:38 PM
  #158  
Senior Member

iTrader: (1)
 
rosey's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: WI
Posts: 535
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by TehMonkay
What inability to read? How about your inability to comprehend anything i just said, it displaces 1.3l, it is a 1.3l engine, there is nothing else to it.

If all you care about is what you like better, and you've already figured that out, why the hell are you even here.

You havent brought a single useful point to your side of the arguement, you've just been a complete troll.

And yes, LS1s are too complex, along with every other piston engine, engines only need 3 main moving parts to work, why add a bunch of other crap that can break.
-I said when comparing rotary to pistons engines, even though its a moot point because only closet honda-owner wanna-be's like yourself care about hp/liter

Guess I'm not that only person that thinks so considering the renesis has won awards in the 2.5L-3.0L category....
http://rotarynews.com/node/view/379

-I'm here because this is the other engine section. Why are you here?

-I'm not trying to argue - I already know I'm right.
Old 02-14-08, 05:38 PM
  #159  
Back in the game

iTrader: (-1)
 
TehMonkay's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Louisville KY
Posts: 2,456
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
And the driveshaft from a stock gm vehicle mated to the chrysler flange, is the correct length for an rx-7?
Old 02-14-08, 05:40 PM
  #160  
®

iTrader: (4)
 
BASTARD's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: NorCal
Posts: 2,281
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts
Originally Posted by jimlab
You've got to be ******* kidding.

The rotary engine has had 50+ years of R&D, and it "only has 3 moving parts", to quote the favorite saying of rotards everywhere. If that's the case, what's so ******* difficult to perfect about the rotary that they couldn't manage it in 50 years?

I've got news for you. You've already seen the pinnacle of rotary development, and it's called the Renesis. Unfortunately, it still has all of the same problems every other rotary engine has. 3 moving parts or not, combustion chambers shaped like a football do not produce efficient combustion and never will, no matter how much R&D dollars you throw at the problem. The same goes for dumping partially burned fuel into the exhaust. You're never going to make much power and be able to pass emissions standards.

My advice? Stay on your meds and don't try to think.

are you really that ignorant? or were you being facetious
Old 02-14-08, 05:41 PM
  #161  
Pretty as a $20 whore

iTrader: (1)
 
Eat-Pez's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Greenville, SC
Posts: 595
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by TehMonkay
And the driveshaft from a stock gm vehicle mated to the chrysler flange, is the correct length for an rx-7?
Yes. Get it out of an automatic C4 Vette. I've bought a few for $50 shipped. They're aluminum.
Old 02-14-08, 05:42 PM
  #162  
Back in the game

iTrader: (-1)
 
TehMonkay's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Louisville KY
Posts: 2,456
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Originally Posted by rosey
-I said when comparing rotary to pistons engines, even though its a moot point because only closet honda-owner wanna-be's like yourself care about hp/liter

Guess I'm not that only person that thinks so considering the renesis has won awards in the 2.5L-3.0L category....
http://rotarynews.com/node/view/379

-I'm here because this is the other engine section. Why are you here?

-I'm not trying to argue - I already know I'm right.
The only reason people started rating the rotary that way is because they think it doesn't sound as bad when they get beat by a 2.6l versus a 1.3l.

The HP/l statement only proves that the engine is more volumetrically efficient. It's a proven fact, It's also a proven fact theyre thermally inefficient.

Only people with insecurities say an engine that displaces 1.3l is a 2.6l.

Although, I guess if you get the total volume of a rotor and subtract that from the total volume of a housing, multiply that by 2, and it comes out to 2600ccs, i may belive you, but until you somehow get that to work, the engine is a 1.3l.
Old 02-14-08, 05:46 PM
  #163  
Rotary Enthusiast

iTrader: (3)
 
turbotommy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 802
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
you guys have way too much time on your hands to be arguing STILL. I had my week of posting on here but itll never end. lol Just go fast in whatever you have and like. Arent everyones fingers hurting yet??
Old 02-14-08, 05:50 PM
  #164  
Pretty as a $20 whore

iTrader: (1)
 
Eat-Pez's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Greenville, SC
Posts: 595
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by TehMonkay
Although, I guess if you get the total volume of a rotor and subtract that from the total volume of a housing, multiply that by 2, and it comes out to 2600ccs, i may belive you, but until you somehow get that to work, the engine is a 1.3l.
Well, this is not how piston engines' displacements are measured. A piston engine is measured by volume in the cylinder when the piston is at it's lowest point (the stroke right before the compression stroke), then mulitplied by the # of cylinders.

Therefore, you would have to measure the rotary by the volume from apex to apex from when it begins its compression stroke, multiply by 3 (for 3 sides of the rotor), then by 2 (for 2 rotors, if it's a 13b). That would equal 2.6.

Or, you could measure piston engines by rotary's standard. Take the heads off the engine and measure the volume of each cylinder with the pistons in place, connected to the crank. Each cylinder would be a different volume, but would ultimately end up being half of the engine's advertized displacement.
Old 02-14-08, 05:51 PM
  #165  
Pretty as a $20 whore

iTrader: (1)
 
Eat-Pez's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Greenville, SC
Posts: 595
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by turbotommy
you guys have way too much time on your hands to be arguing STILL. I had my week of posting on here but itll never end. lol Just go fast in whatever you have and like. Arent everyones fingers hurting yet??
O.. no, no tommy, that was another thread. Aren't you going to join us on this one?
Old 02-14-08, 05:57 PM
  #166  
Rotary Enthusiast

iTrader: (3)
 
turbotommy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 802
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by Eat-Pez
O.. no, no tommy, that was another thread. Aren't you going to join us on this one?
HAHA. Yea thats what i meant, the other thread.... nah,, ill sit back and read. im good. You and snyper got this all day
Old 02-14-08, 06:06 PM
  #167  
Back in the game

iTrader: (-1)
 
TehMonkay's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Louisville KY
Posts: 2,456
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Originally Posted by Eat-Pez
Well, this is not how piston engines' displacements are measured. A piston engine is measured by volume in the cylinder when the piston is at it's lowest point (the stroke right before the compression stroke), then mulitplied by the # of cylinders.
Actually bore vs. stroke is used, this equation does not compensate for the fact that the piston doesnt completely fill the combustion chamber.
Old 02-14-08, 06:12 PM
  #168  
Pretty as a $20 whore

iTrader: (1)
 
Eat-Pez's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Greenville, SC
Posts: 595
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by TehMonkay
Actually bore vs. stroke is used, this equation does not compensate for the fact that the piston doesnt completely fill the combustion chamber.
Right, I was just trying to keep the terms as simple as possible. So, you see, the rotary isn't measured by the same standard.
Old 02-14-08, 06:13 PM
  #169  
Pretty as a $20 whore

iTrader: (1)
 
Eat-Pez's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Greenville, SC
Posts: 595
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by turbotommy
You and snyper got this all day
We're on a mission from God.
Old 02-14-08, 06:18 PM
  #170  
Super Snuggles

 
jimlab's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Redmond, WA
Posts: 10,091
Received 32 Likes on 17 Posts
Originally Posted by thetech
I know a good optometrist; if you need the number, PM me
Still sounded like an Evinrude, even though it looked like a 20B.
Old 02-14-08, 06:25 PM
  #171  
Rotary Enthusiast

iTrader: (3)
 
turbotommy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 802
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by Eat-Pez
We're on a mission from God.
lol
Old 02-14-08, 06:33 PM
  #172  
Super Snuggles

 
jimlab's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Redmond, WA
Posts: 10,091
Received 32 Likes on 17 Posts
Originally Posted by Roen
Blah.
Precisely.

My original goal was to try to set up an experiment that was a fair comparison between the LS1 and the rotary engines (13B, 20B).
Then you either have to limit the rotary engines to naturally aspirated configuration, or allow the LS1 the basic changes needed to make it more responsive to boost and then compare forced induction to forced induction. Otherwise, compare them as they were issued and quit trying to make excuses for one or the other.

You can't deny that there's been much more money invested into the 8 cylinder alone, than the rotary engine.
Of course there has, it's a far more viable and financially successful platform. If the rotary engine were more advantageous, it wouldn't have been discarded by GM, Mercedes, and other manufacturers with Mazda being the lone hold-out.

Adapting that point of view, I don't see why it wouldn't be fair to let the rotary owners spend a little more money on aluminum sideplates and lightened rotors. It's not like it affeccts the power, especially in my proposed experiement.
So what's the point?
Old 02-14-08, 06:35 PM
  #173  
Super Snuggles

 
jimlab's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Redmond, WA
Posts: 10,091
Received 32 Likes on 17 Posts
Originally Posted by BASTARD
are you really that ignorant?
Elaborate on which part of my post you felt was ignorant and we'll see whether or not you are...
Old 02-14-08, 06:39 PM
  #174  
****** of disaster

iTrader: (1)
 
thetech's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Santa Monica, CA
Posts: 1,115
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by jimlab
Still sounded like an Evinrude, even though it looked like a 20B.
I guess that's why the world is so wonderful...different strokes for different folks.
Old 02-14-08, 06:42 PM
  #175  
Super Snuggles

 
jimlab's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Redmond, WA
Posts: 10,091
Received 32 Likes on 17 Posts
Originally Posted by TehMonkay
Only people with insecurities say an engine that displaces 1.3l is a 2.6l.
Or people who understand that Mazda's incentive to rate the rotary based on only one rotation of the eccentric shaft (vs. two with a piston engine) was because engines displacing over 2.0 liters were taxed at a higher rate in Japan and Europe...

Every governing body in racing rates the rotary at double the "stock" displacement for a reason; because it's ingests as much air and fuel as a piston engine twice its size.


Quick Reply: 13b-t vs LS1 vs SR20 swap!?



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 05:19 AM.