neeeeeeeeed uppdaaaaaaateeeeeeeee. these videos are so epic.

 

I agree. MORE NOW!

 

You should just have your own show.

 

ill second that!!

 

I've been splitting my time between working on a number of things lately so I have not done much on the Cosmo or with editing the large amount of footage I already have. Built a new air compressor for the shop, had to do some plumbing repairs at home, helping someone else with an RX-7 that was a gift to his son, preparing the TII diff/axles to go into my 2nd gen, and working on my website. I think I'll start editing part 15 this coming week.

 

I like what you did with the ports on your 6 port engine there. Leave the timing alone but smooth the sharp edges and casting flash. I get to do that on an S4 NA today. There is a lot of port area, especially in the 86+ engines with their big aux ports. Why would anyone make them bigger if you keep the stock manifolding etc?

 

Exactly. I wonder how many of those running "monster street ports" on their 6 port engines have had the thing on a dyno. The idea here is a great daily driver engine that idles well, gets good mileage and makes great low to mid range torque. Turbo will be something generally considered rather small for a 13B but then again I'm not making an engine that needs to carry power to 8000 RPM. The port actuators will be boost and RPM activated, and my upper intake will be an interesting combination for some very long runners.

 

With your hair, you should be in a Rush cover band.

 

With a mustache, Barreta hat, a wooden hammer and watermelons as well! jajajaja sorry just couldn't resist.

 

Aaron, I've been following the build since you uploaded the first video on youtube and it look fantastic so far. In regard to what everyone has said about a dead battery and getting back into the car, I've got an idea that should solve the problem.

What are you going to do about the gas filler flap? If there's enough 'shoulder room' around the filler neck, you might consider putting in a 2-pin pass-through connector with some 12-gauge wire that runs straight to the battery terminals. It'd make for a nice, tidy solution and means that you could get into the car with the battery disconnected. And depending on what connectors you use, this would function as a jumpstart point as well. Can't remember offhand, but one of the big connector manufacturers like Delphi or Tyco Electronics makes some connectors that are rated for crazy high amperage, in the neighborhood of 300+ amps.

Have you thought any about the alternator yet? Something neat and pitiful I found out through the REPU Forums (http://www.mazdarepu.com/) is that the REPU's alternator is rated for 50 amps, and is probably the same as a RX-4 alternator, which is probably shared with the RX-5 Cosmo too. On an even more pitiful note, the B1600's alternator tops out at 35 amps. All things considered, you just can't go wrong with a Taurus Alternator, assuming a proper pulley is available.

 

Good suggestion (though more than 12 AWG would be necessary to jump start the car) but I think I'll be sticking with a hidden connector somewhere connected to the trunk solenoid. Then I can open the trunk, and have full access to the door solenoids (relay panel will be in the trunk) as well as the battery.

 

Happy Friday everyone! It's been a little while since my last video as I've been busy with beginning-of-season related activities: built a new air compressor for the shop, put a new diff in my RX-7 and helped someone else with an engine installation. It's taken a while to edit episode 15 (the actual work was completed in March) but it's finally here! In part 15, I repair the rust damaged areas of the transmission tunnel discovered during blasting. The sheet metal surrounding the shifter hole and parking brake handle area is cut out, patch panels are made and then welded into place. Also a cracked driver side seat mount is repaired. Sheet metal work is time consuming though not necessarily difficult and this is only a little work of much to come. Included in this episode: cutting out rusted metal, making templates, cutting patch panels, forming patch panels, welding in patch panels, blasting rusty parts, repairing damaged brackets, removing spot welds and replacing, lots of grinding.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L3EKDdekSMw

 

"oooooops, glad no body is going to see that"

haha

Also i picked up some used parts, a set of 5 lug spindles and calipers. How would you recommended they be cleaned? I plan on using the slotted rotors it came with (also rusted) as they look practically brand new. I think I might paint the calipers and maybe the rest of the parts with maybe a silver paint though I'm not sure if that would look tacky or not...

 

Reverse praying mantis. Lololol. The work looks awesome. Such great attention to detail.

It almost seems like you picked up on someones old restoration project with all the new parts the car has had.

What thickness sheet metal do you usually use for the body work? Same thickness as the chassis metal?

 

If it was me, I'd bast the spindles (put duct tape over the bearing surfaces) with sand/copper slag and then blast the aluminum parts (protect the bearing surfaces of course) with glass beads at low pressure. That will clean them right up. If you don't have access to a blaster, then there is probably a company in town that will blast for you and it won't cost much if you do the prep work (degrease first, then mask off areas with several layers of thick duct tape).

Generally I paint my rotors silver and calipers black.

The car was certainly someone's project. They got it as far as disassembling chunks of it, blasting it, and then putting it in primer after some minor (and crappy) body repairs. At some point I'll track down the history of the car but only after it is back on the road (the wrecking yard I bought it from will be surprised!).

I match the thickness of the sheet metal to the part I am repairing, which as I recall, is around 1MM for the floor pan. When I do the frame I'll use a little thicker metal.

 

LOL!!!!

"If anything, it might be a little Lindsey Lohan'd... that is... overpenetrated"

I actually laughed out loud.

 

Alright, time for another update. Enough lounging about!!!

 

Aaron, Ive been restomoding my house for the past few years so all my car projects are on hold. Love the vids man, Im chomping at the bit to get back to my projects.

I like these vids better than the profesional stuff I see saturday mornings on television. Dude, you have a calling here. The side convos going on with the "I forgot to turn the air on" crack me up Keep that stuff in there, its gold. There has got to be a way for you to make money doing those vids or at least a case weld thru primer that does not clog for free.

Anyhow, MORE VIDS!

 

Can't wait to see the finished product. Wish I still had mine.

 

I've been occupied with so many other things for the past two months that I've not been able to spend much time on the Cosmo. Now finally, things have calmed down now that my RX-7 is back on the road and I don't have any more car shows to attend. So I'll be getting back on it basically tomorrow. The only thing is that what I'm doing now is basically more grunt work and more of the same floor related stuff. I don't think anyone wants to see several more episodes of floor patching so I'm going to show all the interesting stuff and not all the tiny repairs that need to be done. I'll save all that footage and then do a floor episode.

Well thank you! I do think they are OK for just randomly turning on the camera and then spending a few hours crashing through editing of each one. Though I think it's time to upgrade the camera. There are ways I can make a little money here and there on the videos but unless a company wants to step up and sponsor (I've sent a few emails) then I don't think it will be a big money maker.

The advantage I have over PowerBlock or the other car shows is that I don't have to chop out all the details to fit into a time slot. I can show the whole process because I can always just upload another episode. Even still I'm editing about 6 hours of footage down to 15-30 minutes.

 

Been watching for a while and sympathize on the busy schedule and in ability to get to work on a project none the less great work and awesome video keep up the fine work sir it's gunna be sweet when you get it finished.

 

I finally present part 16 of my Cosmo restoration! Has it really been over a month since the last update? I guess I've been busier than I thought and haven't had as much time to work on the car as I would have liked. Regardless, work has been slow and steady when I could find a few minutes here and there to spend in the shop. The work that has been accomplished lately has mainly been grunt work, as shown. In this episode I disassemble the front end, revealing the need for more rust repairs. The front subframe is removed before the wheel wells are cleaned up in preparation for media blasting. Then since I've been putting it off for months, the dashboard is removed as well as under dash components. Included in this episode: front fender removal, nose cone removal, front subframe removal, stabilizer bar removal, scraping wheel well undercoating, undercoating removal with kerosene, rust, dash board removal, heater core removal, heater components disassembly.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uAuxzd5TSqM

 

Dude, scraping undercoating is the worst thing i have ever endured in my life. sucks sucks sucks. I scrapped it with a p-knife then wire wheeled it. Gosh it took so much time. will never ever ever do it again. Ill make a kerosene power washer before i scrape on that **** ever again. fml...it sucks.

 

One of the shops I worked at years ago had a Kerosene fired pressure washer. If you cranked it up to hot the undercoating and quite a bit of the paint would just fall right off. Bigtime mess on the floor tho. I will own one of those pressure washers some day. Man they kick ***. But at ~$2k new its gonna be a while.

 

love the humor and actually your motivating me to get my rx5 going lol accept here in my town we have a place that media blasts trailers and big stuff so i will strip the car down and have the whole car done