Yeah, just a small spring seems to do the job in all the shaved door cars I've seen. The combination of the force of the door seals and the spring pops the door to just past the latch, which is all that is needed. I'm still thinking about the gas strut though. A combination of a gas strut and small spring would pop the door out a few inches and then hold it there. It would be pretty cool and smooth to see. I think I can mount the body of a small 6" strut inside the door then just make a small bracket to hold it to the jam on the other end.

 

I'm curious about something. If there's a failure of the keyless entry module or a dead battery, how would you open the door?

 

Bent coat hanger and the experience of a mis-spent youth.

Actually there are several ways and it all depends on how the car is set up.

At first I was going to keep the trunk lock functional with a key, just so that I could always get into the trunk and access the battery without having to rely on the electrical system being turned on. However, I now think I will smooth that hole as well, because, why not? I can use plastic repair epoxy on the rear valance piece which needs to be repainted anyway so the hole will disappear.

AutoLoc recommends hiding a backup switch somewhere on the exterior of the car so that the doors can still be opened if the remote is lost or the keyless system malfunctions. I think that's kind of stupid but then again, one could get very creative as to where that button is positioned. Behind a marker light, under a fender liner, etc. Still doesn't solve the issue of a dead battery.

What I'm going to do is hide a small two pin connector somewhere on the car, with wires leading directly to the trunk solenoid. That way, if the battery is dead or some other electrical failure happens, I can always just use a little 12V battery to open the trunk and from there, activate the rest of the solenoids (I'm going to mount the control stuff in the trunk because underneath the dash will be needed for ECU and HVAC).

 

Are you re-using the factory HVAC or installingl an aftermarket system?

 

Going to use a Vintage Air HVAC unit. My Cosmo didn't come with A/C...though a Cosmo condensor and dryer, as well as a spare heater box, were found in the trunk. Odd.

 

In part 10 of my 1976 Mazda Cosmo restoration, I continue the surprisingly long task of shaving the door handles. Last episode I left off after cutting the patch panel to fill the hole in the passenger door. This time I weld the panel in, fix the huge amount of warpage my improper welding technique caused, then do the same on the passenger side. Shaving the door handles took a lot more time than I thought it would and it feels nice to have it all finally done. Included in this episode: patching door handle holes, welding sheet metal, grinding down welds, hammering out warp caused by welding, learning how to not screw it up next time.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cr--NhcZw80

My face looks kind of funny in the preview image.

 

Lookin good!

 

"That's what she said"

 

I now present episode 11 of my '76 Mazda RX-5 Cosmo restoration. This episode deals with the task of installing the AutoLoc PW4650 universal power window kit. This kit includes motorized actuators which rotate the existing manual window cranks, driving the manual regulator and thus converting it to power without the need to fit an entirely new window regulator. Additionally it includes all wiring and switches (not installed yet), and mounting brackets. As it is a universal kit, it is universally wrong for every application and must be customized to fit. The installation was straightforward though time consuming. I have to admit, this episode is a monstrosity and quite a bit longer than normal. But for good reason, because I didn't want to do a "To be continued" as the next episode will be quite special. Included in this part: custom fitting AutoLoc universal power window actuators, making cutting channels into the inner door for space, patching and finishing off the channels with welding and sheet metal, cutting sheet metal from templates, media blasting before painting, making brackets for actuators, a surprise at the end.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oeDWptbUHMw

 

Oh, very nice. Can't wait to see the engine.

I use stainless fasteners too (on non-structural items), and in addition to anti-seize, I chase the threads first to clean them up. On electrical grounds, I use star washers. On items where things might get shaken loose from vibration, I use stainless locking washers.

For those wanting to use stainless fasteners, you also need to bear in mind for things that carry a high load, stainless steel is not going to be as strong as regular steel. So if anyone is thinking of swapping every single nut and bolt in things like the car's suspension, I suggest you use titanium or be ready for something important to break off.

 

what a tease..... cant wait to see engine assembly!!!

 

Nice power windows sir. Definitely alot of inspiration.
And finally! The engine!

 

Your girlfriend jokes always make me chuckle a bit! Your attention to detail and patience is amazing. As always thank for sharing. Stoked about the next vid for sure!

 

Looks like we are on the same page. Got into the habit of chasing all threads years ago. I still watch others who skip this step have nothing but trouble due to dirty threads and lack of lubrication. Everything electrical gets loads of dielectric grease.

Generally with suspension stuff I buy hardware at the dealer. Unless the fastener store has an exact copy with the same number of threads and same diameter shoulder. Stainless for all non-critical stuff.

What's great is that this car has not been fighting me at all hardware wise. Everything is coming out no-problem, even without any kind of penetrating oil.

 

NIce work, I especially like that you don't forget to fix everything each time you modify something.

 

When youre finished I have a feeling the next owner of this car will think these things were stock...

So much inspiration. I wish i had a shop to work in!

 

It could be quite a while before there is a "next owner" though. I'll likely keep the car for a while. After all, I need a practical car with 4 seats sometimes.

 

Whens the next video Aaron?!

 

NEED MOAR VIDYA NAO!1!

Just kidding... but I am anxious for the next one. I need my fix .

 

Just as I promised last episode, it is finally time to build the engine! Part 12 of my RX-5 Cosmo restoration covers the entire process of building the 6 port 13B Mazda rotary engine. While this engine is a hybrid of GSL-SE RX-7 and Cosmo parts, the process is the same for any rotary from a 12A to a 13B NA, 13B Turbo, 13B-REW or any other variant of the 13B. This video shows the whole process of the engine build, starting from measuring the rotors and covering everything else including clearancing the side seals, assembling the rotors, complete assembly the short block, setting the eccentric shaft end play and installing the front cover and everything underneath it. It's probably the most complete engine build video outside of what you can buy from the vendors, and as such, is an hour long. After this one, I'm going back to videos under 20 minutes. But for now, grab a beverage of your choice, sit back, and enjoy.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ijJeUk_GqiI

 

Very nice...this is probably as close as I will come to seeing a 12a assembled. I enjoyed it very much! Can't wait to hear it run.

 

watched every second... cant get any better. i didnt see the flywheel get torqued

 

It is missing your flywheel torquing technique. Great video though.

Easily the best you'll find online for a full rebuild video.

 

Good stuff as always

 

That was awsome thanks Aaron