Alright so I've been trying to get the truck running for a few weeks now, I am going to rebuild the motor but it would be so much more convenient to have it running right now, so maybe you guys can help me out..

This is what the truck does if it does attempt to start..when it doesn't do what it's doing in the video then it will just turn and turn until the battery dies.

The video was taken after cleaning the spark plugs because I had thought I flooded it.

It's a stock 13b, has a Holley 650 with a Holley fuel pump/regulator. I know it may be too much for a stock 13b but I've seen it work a million times so I know it's not something detrimental to have it running.

Anything is good advice. Thanks.

http://youtu.be/gwDbW5Qu5mk

 

poor 2 cap full of engine oil thru the carb (ATF is last resort; I personally dont like using it as it will make rubber expand), handcrank for at least 5 revolution and install new plugs. also double check that the distributor was installed at TDC using the flywheel trick.

 

Timing? Did you pit the distributed cap on clocked the wrong way? I've seen that happen with the same results you're having.

 

i know this sound very well, it's only running on one rotor. very slow to rev and wont idle. have u checked the compression? pull one leading plug at a time and spin it over. a blast of air should come out with each revolution.

 

I'll try both of these when I get off work. Posting results in the A.M.
Thanks guys, I'm leaning more towards the one rotor diagnosis as it's not the first time someone said that's what it is.

 

Also, I didn't add this. The truck was running great, perfect daily driver for maybe 2 months. Never abused or anything. When I took it on a small road trip I heard a small pop, not like a backfire. And just like that it's been slowly decreasing it's ability to turn over.
So does that throw the timing possibility out?

 

Have you messed with idle screws? Typically a rotary with a Holley likes idle screws to be 2 turns out(little screws on the primary metering block). Pouring a little oil down the carb would help build up compression a bit and make starting easier. I would also turn up the idle speed a bit to help keep it running when you can get it started. You can dial it back down after it starts and stays running. Have you inspected the power valve? A misfire could have ruptured the diaphragm making it run way rich.

 

I did the research on the idle screws before putting the Holley on, and I do have them 2 turns out.
I didn't think of turning the idle up a bit, completely went over my head.
I quickly looked over the power valve while doing the "wtf is wrong with you inspection", and I didn't see anything at that moment, as far as the diaphragm where do I check to see if that is ruptured?

 

Power valve is probably ok, but worth inspecting when the carb is opened up. Did you fix the float issue?

 

I agree.... I think motor has low compression. My friend car was acting like this and it was the rear rotor that had no compression.