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Old Sep 15, 2011 | 04:46 PM
  #276  
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Front end swap as in fenders, hood, grille? Possibly....
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Old Sep 15, 2011 | 05:34 PM
  #277  
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and bumper, grill emblem,Chrome trim, lights, turn signals, wiring harness if diffrent....
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Old Sep 16, 2011 | 05:52 AM
  #278  
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Let me know a price and we'll go from there. I have toyed with the idea of converting the front end of my car to the older style.
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Old Sep 16, 2011 | 10:03 AM
  #279  
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Got the door lock tumblers out last night and got the ignition switched over, finished up putting the dash together for the last time hopefully, now I just got to finish up the rear seat area and install the roof console.
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Old Sep 18, 2011 | 11:07 AM
  #280  
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Old Sep 19, 2011 | 12:35 PM
  #281  
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Did you use a paint color called cast coat iron?

I see a 30 pound flywheel.
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Old Sep 19, 2011 | 12:42 PM
  #282  
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Yeah I wish I had a lighter flywheel.
And yes I used an iron cloror paint. It is a clean color for the irons
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Old Sep 19, 2011 | 05:12 PM
  #283  
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So I dont think I am going to put the stock intake and carb back on this car... I am thinking or either a Camden supercharger kit or doing an S5 turbo.... I would like to go with a turbo over the S/C but I am not sure of what to do with the intake portion.... does the S5 intake manifold bolt up to a old 4 port 13b? What about a Cosmo intake setup?

If no Mazda units fit what would be my best route for a FI turbo setup?
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Old Sep 19, 2011 | 11:11 PM
  #284  
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EFI or carb?

I'm going blow through on my planned S5 turbo swap in the REPU. The intake will be a 76 Cosmo reverse runner manifold drilled to the Nikki stud pattern. The reason: I already have the manifold and it's already drilled. It might just have a little more low end torque since the primaries are really long. However I dont' know how channels will affect it so I'll cut channels in the carb spacer. Since I'm going to have to use a carb hat, the hood clearance issues that could arise from using the tall thick Nikki spacer will be non, uh, issues.

There is just one hiccup that I gotta iron out first though. I gotta fab up a new header while the current NA system is in the REPU. So I spent some time today prepping a flange and so forth.

Tomorrow I get to pull the SC so I gain access to the current header. It and the SC are going in the FB. It's one of those RB road race headers and will perfectly match the streetport center section. Then just gotta cut the powerpulse out of the REPU's center section and transfer it over to the FB. Then I can add an RB universal to the REPU. That will sound awesome until the turbo can go in, at which point I'll swap in a 3" DP and remove the twin 2" presilencers.

You see, the current exhaust in the RPEU is ideal for a supercharger. It was based on RB's complete "streetport" system with all three components, plus an extra big muffler in the back because swapping the powerpulse in the truck required some of the key quieting features to be eliminated. Well, they'll be added back when it goes in the FB. So I'm hoping that the turbo will do the same job as both presielncers did, but going to a 3" DP will mean a lot of noise. I might have to get a 3" presilencer.

I hope my story shed some light on what you're planning. It can be difficult to choose between turbo and SC. It depends on how much power you're looking for, and how much work you're interested in doing. The SC is basically bolt-in. The turbo will be mostly custom.
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Old Sep 19, 2011 | 11:18 PM
  #285  
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Yeah I think I am going to start with a n/a build with FI. Maybe an injection perfection setup then piece together a turbo based on a S5 turbo. I would like somewhere near 300 hp.
I like the idea of the S/C for its simplicity and all around fun driving but the power is a little limited with the camden setup.
The upgrade ability of a turbo with a FI system is too appealing
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Old Sep 19, 2011 | 11:22 PM
  #286  
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You gonna stick with your cast coat iron painted engine? You should start looking for an S5 T2 block for simplicity. I'm gearing up to build an REW soon for an FB. The owner is getting tired of the current blow through DCOE and would very much love to go EFI. He's swapping in a MegaSquirt. A much better solution than trying to fab up anything else, at least for him.
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Old Sep 19, 2011 | 11:54 PM
  #287  
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I am going to keep the cast color for the engine.
I am not going to look for another motor right now as this one is a new block from mazda. It is very low milage basically just broke in.
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Old Sep 19, 2011 | 11:56 PM
  #288  
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Nice!
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Old Sep 20, 2011 | 12:01 AM
  #289  
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Yeah the guy I just bought the other car from bought a brand new wngine from mazda, had it installed and then let the car sit as he was going to do the body work on the car but it is pretty rotten
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Old Sep 20, 2011 | 12:22 AM
  #290  
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Man you got lucky, glad it worked out in the end.
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Old Sep 20, 2011 | 03:13 PM
  #291  
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OK hooked up a battery last night to test all the wiring in my car. Everything seems to work except the windshield squirters... Not too bad of a list for wiring almost 40 years old.

Anyone have a wiring schematic for a Rx-4?
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Old Sep 20, 2011 | 05:39 PM
  #292  
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If you are planning on a turbo or blower in the future and the motor is still out of the car, I would pull the pan and tap a oil return drain into the front cover while everything is accessible.
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Old Sep 20, 2011 | 05:46 PM
  #293  
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Damn Gary that is a good idea, thanks I would have put everything in then seen I needed to do that.
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Old Sep 21, 2011 | 03:39 PM
  #294  
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I was looking on RB's website and noticed there is a diffrent header for non rx-7 13b's. Are they diffrent as in how the header clears the firewall?
Can I use a fb 13b header on my rx-4?
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Old Sep 21, 2011 | 03:50 PM
  #295  
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Prob not. It will bump the idler arm of the steering linkage. The earlier style clears it better.
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Old Sep 21, 2011 | 03:56 PM
  #296  
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Thanks, good thing I asked.
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Old Sep 21, 2011 | 09:20 PM
  #297  
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When you put the pan back on, do it right! If you don't want it to leak, get some ready rod (or cut the heads off some bolts) and stud 4 of the bolts. Apply the rtv sealant, then gently set the pan on (will line up brilliantly). Install nuts and just thread them in to compress the rtv just slightly! Then let the rtv set up for a couple of hours then snug the pan down.
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Old Sep 22, 2011 | 09:57 AM
  #298  
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Will do gary, Thanks
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Old Sep 22, 2011 | 04:28 PM
  #299  
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Originally Posted by john smack
OK hooked up a battery last night to test all the wiring in my car. Everything seems to work except the windshield squirters... Not too bad of a list for wiring almost 40 years old.

Anyone have a wiring schematic for a Rx-4?
Wiring diagram for 75 and 76. Don't get too excited. They are only marginally correct.
http://iwankel.com/manuals/public/RX...ng,%201975.pdf
http://iwankel.com/manuals/public/RX...ng,%201976.pdf

and FSM for 74,75 and 77

http://iwankel.com/manuals/public/RX...4,%20Large.pdf
http://iwankel.com/manuals/public/RX...5,%20Large.pdf
http://iwankel.com/manuals/public/RX...7,%20Large.pdf
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Old Sep 22, 2011 | 05:53 PM
  #300  
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wow that wiring diagram is pretty easy to read lol
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