The camden looks real old school cool with the dellorto.

See what atkins advises on the waterpump

 

You know if you have the carb hooked up and oil flowing to the camden you can start and run it without the belt.


oooops, I forgot, you're up in the back woods....





You'll need fuel flowing too.......

 

S4 NA waterpump is correct. You've probably seen what I've posted to make them work on older engines. I like to use a 10mm x 1.5 bolt for the alt bracket because it is threading into aluminum. Then I fill the hole from the back with RTV to prevent coolant seeping from the threads.

Looks like you have a 4bbl carb adapter and a -10 pulley. Nice! I got a -9 from 84stock (thanks man!) which is great on my REPU's engine with 9.4 CR rotors. I have future plans on going turbo but I'll break in the engine with the supercharger.

 

Yeah it is nice to have the 4bl adapter in case the dell doesnt work out, there is a brand new holley 600 sitting in my garage. But I sure like the look of the side draft sitting in there.

I need to learn more about my carb over the next little while, rebuild it, clean it up and learn how to tune it.

Not in a huge hurry as I still have to finish putting in the FB brake booster and master cylinder and clutch cylinder, and re route some brake lines. Also I need to feed this S/C so I am going to plumb in some bigger fuel lines.

Got to get a engine hoist, pull the block and tap the front cover still.

I modified the S4 manifold to fit on my 13b, the ports are a little misaligned but nothing major now I just have to trim the back side to make room for the bolt for the flywheel inspection cover and maybe dremel out the manifold to match it to the block ports a little better

 

Since it's boosted, you can port match. Even if your ports are a little off, it won't really matter. My 5" has an old school 4 port manifold they modded from an existing casting for an S4/S5 T2 port location. So as you can imagine, they are a little off. I just trimmed the gasket so at least it's not a restriction. Also my intermediate plate has tall runners (R5) so that helps with the oddly located ports in the manifold.

 

Yeah mine are small center ports (3B plates I think)there doesnt seem to be too much misalignment so if it doesnt matter I will do the same just trim the gasket and continue on.

 

I was about to mention 3B plates also shouldn't matter, but you figured it out.

 

Tore some ligaments in my knee over the holidays but I managed to mock up a couple mounts for my msd stuff

 

how would u redrill rims?

 

Awesome thread man, i just spent awhile enjoying the updates. Keep at it man.

 

Thanks mike, I think I have almost collected everything I need to get this running.
I need to finish the fb brake booster swap and the fb clutch cylinder swap, then figure out how to complete the elect dizzy swap, tap the front cover for the SC and fire it up

 

relocate the battery and move the msd boxes to the left side

 

You figure they are too far away wacky?
Also do you have any info on what it takes to put the fb brake booster and clutch master into the Rx-4?

 

Msd boxes should be closer to dizzy and coil pack IMHO. Fb booster, brake master and clutch master will work with no other mods except for new brake lines and such. however no rear disc brake conversion unless u chane the entire rear end to something else. Also use fc fuse block

 

Very cool build. I really like the look of the side draft with the camden. I hope it works out for you. Keep the pics and updates coming!

 

Yeah I will be sticking with the drum brakes for now.

 

Wacky can you elaborate on the need and process for the FC fuse block?

 

The need is for replacing purposes. Your fuse blOck is fucked thanks to this guy. We could use an fb one. We got a boot load of fusible links from all the parts cars in the yard. People change over cause you can actually buy fc fuses. Fusible links....little harder to find

 

FC fuse block is a lot cleaner and easier to use too. Takes away a lot of the mess under the hood. Also gives you some extra fuse spaces for add ons later.

 

ahhhh yeah for some reason I thought he meant the fuse panel inside the car haha Yeah I have to replace the fuse block anyway.
I got the hole drilled and tapped in the front cover for the oil return from the supercharger and now I just have to put the oil pan back on which is a pain with the motor in the car.

So when I took the oil pan off I noticed some crud in the bottom of the pan close to the drain plug. when I went to wipe them out I noticed they are hard. it looks like a bunch of pellets of some sort. Now this motor came from Mazda and I have no reason to believe it was ever opened up since it was recieved from them.
The "pellets" can be crushed so they are not solid metal kinda crumbles like pencil led.

Any Ideas on what it is.

 

hmmmmm, scary ****. Maybe there was a rat living in the oil pan

 

I sincerely hope you have this together for Streetwheelers weekend in Lethbridge July 13 !!

 

She runs. Fired right up even in the cold without being started in the last 5 months.
Its only running on a leading direct fire setup as I havent figured out the trailing wiring.
I will get a chance to run it longer today as I didnt get everything together until late last night and I am running a chopped up 12A pace setter header only right now

 

Congrats! Ever figure out what was in the pan?

Lets do some parts deals, John!

 

No I never figured out what was in there a guy at works said maybe some of the oilpan gasket that over hung into the pan and overtime dried up and fell apart. The engine has sat for quite a long time and only been started for short periods of time.

I agree on the parts dealings. We have got a bunch of nice weather and I just moved the parts Rx-4 to where I can strip it for parts.