Fastest way to strip original paint
07-21-08, 07:00 PM
#1
Fastest way to strip original paint
I have a set of RX-3 fenders and doors including trunk and hood. However, there have rust. I would like to strip it down to determine if rust is minimal. Whats the easiest way to do it as I have minimal free time. once stripped to bare metal, I will prime it with rus-oloeum (sp??? bbq grill paint) and it will hibernate for future use.
Sand it down (long and painful process)
aircraft paint remover (stinky)
sand blast
thanks
Sand it down (long and painful process)
aircraft paint remover (stinky)
sand blast
thanks
07-21-08, 07:40 PM
#2
I've had good luck sanding with a pistol grip type high speed air sander/grinder. It will usually take everything off in one pass without warping or removing a lot of metal. I use about a 60 grit disc if its only original thickness paint. Sometimes a 36 grit is needed for multiple layers.
Sand blasting can lead to warping if the person isn't careful. The best way if you can find it locally and are willing to pay would be soda blasting. I've seen the paint removed from a Coke can with soda with no damage to the aluminum.
If you go the stripper route get some plastic to cover it while it works on the paint, it will save you a bunch of money and time.
As for primer, be careful what you choose. Primer itself usually won't stop rust unless its an epoxy type. More experienced body guys may know of some that I don't but I like the "DP40" series from PPG and it has a built in rust inhibitor. Rustoleum may cause trouble with future top coats.
Sand blasting can lead to warping if the person isn't careful. The best way if you can find it locally and are willing to pay would be soda blasting. I've seen the paint removed from a Coke can with soda with no damage to the aluminum.
If you go the stripper route get some plastic to cover it while it works on the paint, it will save you a bunch of money and time.
As for primer, be careful what you choose. Primer itself usually won't stop rust unless its an epoxy type. More experienced body guys may know of some that I don't but I like the "DP40" series from PPG and it has a built in rust inhibitor. Rustoleum may cause trouble with future top coats.
07-21-08, 07:43 PM
#3
Waffles - hmmm good
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Have someone else do it 
Seriously, see if there's a shop that can acid dip them to strip em and then just have them zinc coated ( I think thats what it is). Then you can store em until you need em. Not sure if its within your budget, but thats the fastest way I can think of.
Seriously, see if there's a shop that can acid dip them to strip em and then just have them zinc coated ( I think thats what it is). Then you can store em until you need em. Not sure if its within your budget, but thats the fastest way I can think of.
07-21-08, 07:44 PM
#4
Likes to swear....alot
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Dont sand blast!!! It'll kill the old metal, warp it all to hell and when/if you ever use them again they will need soooo much filler to make them straight again.
Sodablast them. Find someone in your area who does sodablasting. We just ordered a liquid Sodablaster for doing exactly what you want to do.
We had our RX-4 wagon completely sodablasted, it doesn't harm any glass or chrome trim. It also leaves a protective film on all the bare metal. The car has been sitting untouched for over a year in our shop and still doesn't have any surface rust on it.
Heres what it started out like
Heres what she looks like
Sodablast them. Find someone in your area who does sodablasting. We just ordered a liquid Sodablaster for doing exactly what you want to do.
We had our RX-4 wagon completely sodablasted, it doesn't harm any glass or chrome trim. It also leaves a protective film on all the bare metal. The car has been sitting untouched for over a year in our shop and still doesn't have any surface rust on it.
Heres what it started out like
Heres what she looks like
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07-22-08, 12:25 AM
#8
really thick and long gloves, and some good ventilation (outside is best) and some sort of mask, some of the chemical strippers stink very bad, and on thin gloves, you will literally feel the glove heat up and sting and if left for long enough can eat through and start going after the skin
07-22-08, 01:16 AM
#9
www.discgolforegon.com
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I've had good luck sanding with a pistol grip type high speed air sander/grinder. It will usually take everything off in one pass without warping or removing a lot of metal. I use about a 60 grit disc if its only original thickness paint. Sometimes a 36 grit is needed for multiple layers.
Sand blasting can lead to warping if the person isn't careful. The best way if you can find it locally and are willing to pay would be soda blasting. I've seen the paint removed from a Coke can with soda with no damage to the aluminum.
If you go the stripper route get some plastic to cover it while it works on the paint, it will save you a bunch of money and time.
As for primer, be careful what you choose. Primer itself usually won't stop rust unless its an epoxy type. More experienced body guys may know of some that I don't but I like the "DP40" series from PPG and it has a built in rust inhibitor. Rustoleum may cause trouble with future top coats.
Sand blasting can lead to warping if the person isn't careful. The best way if you can find it locally and are willing to pay would be soda blasting. I've seen the paint removed from a Coke can with soda with no damage to the aluminum.
If you go the stripper route get some plastic to cover it while it works on the paint, it will save you a bunch of money and time.
As for primer, be careful what you choose. Primer itself usually won't stop rust unless its an epoxy type. More experienced body guys may know of some that I don't but I like the "DP40" series from PPG and it has a built in rust inhibitor. Rustoleum may cause trouble with future top coats.
spoken like a true professional. i have been doin body and paint for 14 years and this is what i was gonna say pretty much word for word. hah
07-22-08, 08:12 PM
#13
aerosev
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Tergo Strip
As an aircraft engineer I would recommend aircraft style paint strippers, something like tergo strip you would only need 1 litre to do 2 gaurds maybe even half a litre, just paint it on with a cheap 2" paintbrush leave it for 10minutes and scape it off, sometimes you will have a few patchs you will need to go over again, and for the last bit finishing it off use scotchbrite bads and MEK (methyl ether ketone) That will get rid of the last of the paint and bring it up to mint bare metal, you will just need a set of gloves and a cheap gas mask with charcoal filters as specially for the MEK otherwise you will walk round in a daze for the next hour, I wouldnt recomend putting grill coating on panels either I can just about bet that the paint wont stick and look like crap! Use a good etch and it wont rust for years
07-23-08, 11:14 PM
#16
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I have a set of RX-3 fenders and doors including trunk and hood. However, there have rust. I would like to strip it down to determine if rust is minimal. Whats the easiest way to do it as I have minimal free time. once stripped to bare metal, I will prime it with rus-oloeum (sp??? bbq grill paint) and it will hibernate for future use.
Sand it down (long and painful process)
aircraft paint remover (stinky)
sand blast
thanks
Sand it down (long and painful process)
aircraft paint remover (stinky)
sand blast
thanks
Hmmm..... from the look of those two pictures your just showing off the wheel in the back ground.
Don't let him fool you guys notice how he took the cover off the rx4 so the front and rear wheels are showing.......Your such a show off bring those fenders over and try them on for size and you don't have to strip the paint....
07-24-08, 03:46 PM
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