Bugeye update
11-24-09, 11:00 PM
#151
There are weights inside the distributer that fling out as it spins faster. As they swing out they change the advance. They are way in the bottom of the FB distributer under all the electronic and vacuum advance stuff. I don't know how much advance you get from the weights alone. Basically you set the total advance you want with the engine at about 4000rpm and you end up with what you get at idle and deal with it.
Don't worry too much about the carb unless you end up with strange things that can't be tuned away. I've seen DCOE's dump fuel out the velocity stacks(as they sit over the exhaust manifold...) If the engine is level in the car(oil pan surface) you should have no problems. If its way off I would twist the engine before I changed the carb to manifold angle
Don't worry too much about the carb unless you end up with strange things that can't be tuned away. I've seen DCOE's dump fuel out the velocity stacks(as they sit over the exhaust manifold...) If the engine is level in the car(oil pan surface) you should have no problems. If its way off I would twist the engine before I changed the carb to manifold angle
11-25-09, 02:33 PM
#152
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Thanks, I'm gonna have to do a little homework and the dizzy. I'll go over to the vintage mazda site, I'm sure them guys deal with this all the time.
11-25-09, 05:59 PM
#153
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insall the distributor, wire it up and run it, the centrifugal advance is set up perfect for your combo. simply plug up the ports on the vac. diaphrams, they are for smog anyways
11-25-09, 11:07 PM
#154
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11-26-09, 11:05 AM
#157
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11-26-09, 01:38 PM
#159
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the setup he got from the shack is a racingbeat upper that bolts to the factory 86-88 factory lower manifold. the gasket is a oe part from mazda.
11-26-09, 02:13 PM
#160
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11-26-09, 11:08 PM
#162
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12-02-09, 09:07 PM
#163
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Since the weather has turned I decided to take the motor out of the elements and put the engine into storage. The question I have is there anything special I should do before and during storage? Should I turn it over now and then? Maybe oil seal? I'm not sure?
12-03-09, 02:20 PM
#165
It's a fresh rebuild, right? Then it should still have some assembly lube inside. Just cover the intake and exhaust ports with tape and if there is a carb installed, shove a rag in each throat. Also cover the oil and heater core/waterpump fittings.
12-03-09, 06:29 PM
#167
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Thanks Jeff, the carbs and manifolds are off for polishing,so I'm figuring I can just tapes over the ports? I feel better. TY
12-05-09, 02:37 PM
#168
Oh and another thing. I would not add any additional oil in the combustion chambers.
I would avoid anything with active ingredients like MMO and especially ATF. Whatever happened to basic simple motor oil? Know what I mean? It's a fresh rebuild; you don't need any special elixers to free up carbon or ruin oil seal o-rings.
I would avoid anything with active ingredients like MMO and especially ATF. Whatever happened to basic simple motor oil? Know what I mean? It's a fresh rebuild; you don't need any special elixers to free up carbon or ruin oil seal o-rings.
12-06-09, 09:12 AM
#169
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Thanks Jeff, I'm gonna leave the chambers alone as you suggest. Should I Turn it over now and then, It gonna be sitting for a few months until the weather gets better?
12-15-09, 07:49 PM
#173
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