1974 13b-re Nova
#277
Finished sumping the gas tank today...........for the 4th time. First try was back in the day, when I was still screwing around with flux core (you can guess the outcome of that one). Second try.......flux core (yeah, I'm a slow learner). Third try was mig, and that one looked OK and was watertight, but I wasn't happy with how it looked. Fourth try was TIG and turned out pretty well, I think. So......three tanks, four trys, and about $900 later, it's done. Should have made the whole damn thing out of aluminum from the getgo, but damnit, it came down to principal. I'm not getting my *** kicked by no stinking gas tank!
#279
Tequila? ..it's like beer
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Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Woodbine, MD
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I second that. Seems you've come a long way from flux core..
I'm curious if you had given any thought to cutting a hole in the top and using an in-tank pump (or two) instead? Or is just mandatory on a muscle car that you have visible braided line and a fuel pump that you can hear from 20 feet away?
I'm curious if you had given any thought to cutting a hole in the top and using an in-tank pump (or two) instead? Or is just mandatory on a muscle car that you have visible braided line and a fuel pump that you can hear from 20 feet away?
#284
This.. is my BOOMSTICK!
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Colorado Springs
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this swap is taking an awesome american muscle car and placing an awesome engine in it.
you should throw mazda badges on it lol
i can see people looking down the street, hearing the nice sound of a rotary, then seeing a nova, wondering where the hell that chainsaw sound is coming from. they will be blown away >=D
you should throw mazda badges on it lol
i can see people looking down the street, hearing the nice sound of a rotary, then seeing a nova, wondering where the hell that chainsaw sound is coming from. they will be blown away >=D
#288
The oil pan is finally done! Here is a writeup on the trap doors....https://www.rx7club.com/fabrication-250/oil-pan-baffle-plate-trap-doors-809995/ Should hold 4.5 to 5 quarts (I haven't checked yet, but that's what the Solidworks model said). The back of the upper level is sloped to help the oil make it into the lower chamber when under acceleration. The "lip" around the spot where the oil pickup tube connects to the engine is to help keep the oil from sloshing onto the upper level during braking. There is a hole at the back of each chamber to keep an air pocket from forming. The oil drain plug is helicoiled help keep the bung from stripping. All that's left is to have the machine shop surface the flange. Despite all efforts, a couple of spots on the flange pulled about 3/64". Checked it on the engine, and everything fits perfectly! You know what they say.....4th time's a charm!