i just purchased a safc II and want to put a wideband on my N/A 87 but i have a header and dual exhaust all the way back and was wonder what i should do?? just put the wideband in one side and hope for the best or can i splice two sensors to one gauge in parallel and get the average on the gauge or do i need two sensors and two gauges?? looking to go the cheapest route possible. thanks

 

Unless you're trying to be super OG and your motor is ported pretty extensively, an SAFC tune is not going to do much for you at all. Save money, get boost.

 

Your SAFC was a huge waste of money, you are going to do way more harm than good. Kick whatever honda/240sx "friend" who told you to buy it in the nuts and never listen to them again. You have a 150 hp car, even with a full standalone, professional tune, and an extra $1000 for good measure, your stock everything motor would then net ~170 hp. Go turbo or live with the 150 hp.

Oh you are from Yakima (my home town) ... 1 sec.

Su Caminar era una pérdida enorme de dinero, se le va a hacer de manera más daño que bien. Tiro lo honda/240sx "amigo" que le dijo que lo compre en las tuercas y nunca escuchar de nuevo. Usted tiene un coche de 150 HP, incluso con un completo independiente, sintonice profesional, y un extra de $1000 para una buena medida, su motor todo stock sería entonces neta ~ 170 HP. Ir turbo o vivir con los 150 HP.

Good luck.
buena suerte

~Tweak
~Ajustar

P.S. Yakima Drift is on the 15th at the Yakima speedway. Come by and say hola.
P.S. Yakima La deriva es el día 15 en el circuito de Yakima. Venir y decir hi.

 

I love you Tweak. This is the Best Post ever! Especially, the Spanish. +1

 

Are you even getting this stuff for performance? I have mine for future swap but also so I can get good gas mileage but if you are trying to get some crazy power out of it then its already be said.

 

Not that I would claim to know anything about Widebands or their installation, but I believe for that situation you install it in one side and go from there.

Also, Silly Tweak :P SAFCs are pretty cool - I just got OVERALL economy of 23.4MPG on my last tank thanks to it! [No correction on high RPMs or high load, but low load-low revs I'm at -15% "air"]

He didn't say he wanted SUPEROMGPERFOMANCEHP from it ^_-

You need to think more Positive

 

Lmao tweak.

 

Typically you would install the wideband in just one of the pipes. Your engine is NA, so it should be good enough to tune with.

 

Your hometown is crackima no wonder the user name tweaker........ and thanks for your "knowledgeable" advice..... the car is heavily ported, turbo exhaust sleeves, 6 port sleeves with acuators wired open, aluminum flywheel ceramic apex and side seals blah blah blah....... ($1000+) . Had the injectors cleaned and its running really really rich and about chokes you out at idle. Has dual exhaust 2.5 all back from header with flow 40's with resinators. Just want to lean it out a little so I don't pass out while parked and get better gas mileage. Talked to a reputable mechanic and found a way to put in a wide band with the dual and to read both rotors so I can use the safc also. Also hoping it helps with the flodding on start up to but we ll see. Thanks for all the considerate non-smart *** opinions tho. I appreciate the helpful advice.

 

ooh, if you're looking for fuel economy you really need to setup a method to actuate the 5th/6th ports. You get better low end toque [and fuel economy] when they are closed.

If you've taken it off, throw the air pump back on, use some adaptors to get it to a valve that has one side to air and one side adapted all the way down to the vacuum line size so it can go to the 5th/6th port nipple.

Air
||
<-() valve
||
|= T-shaped connector with this side going to the air pump
||
V
|
5th/6th port nipple

Mine: http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?pi...b&id=516071224

Then just adjust the valve till the ports open at ~3600RPMs

Also, out of curiosity... Are you running a cone filter? and if so is your Air Flow Meter level? If it's turned sideways that could be part of your problem [gravity will hold the door further open than it should be, making you run rich.]

 

Lol. I am interested to see what you are going to do when your widebands sensors start to read differently from the high rotary EGTs, since an SAFC (and stock batch injector firing wiring) is unable to do individual cylinder fuel trim. Dual wideband is a waste unless you can actually control each injector. You are NA, you are not going to blow anything if one of your AFRs are off, it just will run like crap and studder. Also, like I said before, primary and secondary injectors fire in pairs (batch mode) and unless you have a clogged or bad injector or 1/2 blown engine, each side is seeing the same amount of air and fuel.

My username is TweakGames. In high school I started my own sole proprietorship company called Tweak Games, a game server hosting company. I programmed and built my own load balancing Linux server farm company when I was 17 until I graduated and sold it to completely pay for my 4 years at WSU. I lived in Yakima, and I know I have more knowledgeable rotary advice than all the shitty Yakima mechanics put together. For example, you are killing your already weak bottom and mid range power running your actuators wired open. Fixing that alone would drastically help your gas mileage and possibly you stick problem. A shower wouldn't hurt either.

Wow! I didn't know you had ceramic side seals! That must have SUCKED to clearance those properly! Did you invent them? How about corner seals? Completely overkill for your setup. Flooding issue? Ceramic seals can cause low compression when cold, have you checked your compression? For now I would put a switch to you fuel pump wired up next to your seat so you can turn off the fuel pump when it floods. Saves a lot of headache and embarrassment opening your hood and pulling your fuses each time you flood.

See you at the track on the 15th, I am excited to see this heavily ported beast rape the banks at the time attack / drift event!

(Edit: Aww Derekcat beat me to it. Nice tip about the flapper being level, it DOES make a difference. Also your TPS set properly has helped mine in the past.)

 

correction-(Cryogenically Treated). and it is cone so ill give that a try great advice. and what the guy said is to install a y pipe between the two exhaust pipe with a o2 bung in it and since the o2 self heats it should be able to read both rotors. but we ll see im getting the y pipe put in tomorrow and wideband soon so ill let you know. and its ported as much as you can for a street port. as for the 15th (of may im guessing??) i wanna go but open diff= no fun...... so if anyone has a N/A LSD for sale let me know

 

oh and all the emissions and air pump is stuff is off so thats why the acuators are wired open. also already have fuel pump switch. thanks

 

Well, if you *really* don't want to put the air pump back on, you should get an electric air pump or at the very least take the zipties off when you want fuel economy.