meximan

iTrader: (37)

just wondering where i should head now? ive got the full exhaust, oh yea i have a 91 na. should i work on cooling or fuel? kinda lookin for a direction for performance. thanks~!

MWMburton

electric fan + aluminum radiator = very effective in cooling the **** outta yo car.

meximan

iTrader: (37)

yea i heard any brand preferences? are koyo's ok? what type of electric fan, im not sure the only one ive seen was one that mounted behind radiator and had 2 little fans on it, are there others?

synesthete

As far as the NAs go, the cooling isnt that big of an issue... as long as your car isnt overheating or leaking coolant. Aftermarket e-fans are worthless if your stock fan is working. The stock fuel pump and injectors are also more than adequate.

Some things that are awesome upgrades for any rx7 are struts, springs, wheels, tires, clutch, and all the weight reduction you can do.

What kind of exhaust setup did you get?

Josh18_2k

iTrader: (3)

SAFC should do you some good- getting the mixture perfect will give you a decent amount of ponies. tune it on a dyno of course.
you can also advance the ignition a few degrees (run higher octane to compensate).
that should also be done on a dyno ^
light flywheel helps a bunch too. the stock one is like 25lbs or something? yikes.

MWMburton

the electric fan will be running all the time which some people have mixed reviews about on rotaries. but it will free but a bit of power to the crank. n a lighter flywheel is noticably different in quickness, but if u live or drive in hilly areas ur car will bog a ton. so if its a drag car/ track car a lighter flywheel is a good thing.

eriksseven

iTrader: (6)

Don't bother upgrading your cooling setup... Not gonna be worth it.

If you're going to focus on performance, get some good springs/struts... Seriously. Our cars were made to handle, so if you're still on the stock setup, you really need to upgrade to something that will take full advantage of our Rx7's designs...

I recently purchased KYB AGX's and RS*R "race" springs for my FC and LOVE the setup... If you're on a budget consider Tokico HP's and RS*R "race" springs. New, they'll run you around $450 for the set.

If you don't have much of a budget look into the TB mod, CAI and maybe an SAFC (although you will need some way to tune it).

I assume everythings working well performance-wise with your car? 5th and 6th ports? VDI? If not, then definitely get that stuff figured out first...

Rx7TyreBurna

iTrader: (1)

I agree. Our cars are not made for straight line races. If you want to really improve what it is already great at, get the springs and struts. I got my KYB AGX's on ebay from jdmwerks, or something like that. Great deal and nothing wrong with them. adjustable is nice because it can either be a smooth ride or hard as a rock. I also upgraded to poly bushings when i did the other suspension stuff.

Don't forget about better tires... if you have that kind of money. a good set of tires will make a huge difference when you go flying into that corner.

If you go the handling route. Consider upgrading your braking system. Stainless braided lines. Does your car have the 4 piston brakes? If not, maybe go to a junkyard and get some of those. Should be pretty cheap. Rebuild them, maybe paint them with some heat paint. Upgrading your brakes will help ya approach the corner quicker. Even for daily driving. .

For power. Get a cheap A/F guage and an SAFCII. A cheap A/F guage is alright for minor tuning, but if you want to do some major tuning, you will need to invest in a wideband O2 sensor. I have seen most of them in the $250 range.

I found the greatest power gain from the full open exhaust, the only other thing that made a good difference was the lighter flywheel and improved clutch setup. But it will kill your lower end performance.

If you can get your hands on another engine, or you can take your engine out for a while. Invest in some porting.

Overall, I would probably invest in the handling and the cheaper power mods. I saw you said you have exhaust, so go for maybe anything that can make your car lighter.

Good luck. Don't focus too much on getting it to go quick in a straight line. Most of the guys that can win in a straight line can even touch us in corners.

Example: Raced a Mustang Cobra in a straight line.... well, I lost. Bad.
Challenged him to a race through some turns. He couldn't keep up, he said his car felt too heavy. It didn't want to turn.

If you are shooting to beat some Hondas...... you should already be there. The "Honda" that really beats me is a well tuned Integra GS-R. But, they don't win by much. And I still beat them in the corners.

meximan

iTrader: (37)

thanks for the feedback guys, i was also wondering, ive been back and forth from TII swap to just staying na. what will if anything i do to this na motor, what can transfer over to the swap?im not sure either way which way i want to go but i can do everything i can before i get there. so if ya know what can swap over please let me kno

Rx7TyreBurna

iTrader: (1)

Well. If you try and swap a T2 in. You are going to need a ton of stuff.

You might as well look into buying a T2 junk car and rebuilding the motor. Even if you get the motor off the internet or some japanese import site, you are going to need to rebuild it and get a bunch of stuff from a junker. Transmission, starter, flywheel, drive shaft, and a ton of other stuff.

If this car is for daily driver, I would say stick to N/A. Turbo would be nice, but it is expensive, and a good TII is hard to find. If you can find a good TII at a reasonable price, I would say buy that and build off that. There are many things that are stronger in the TII including hardened points in the chassis.

If you have the money, consider maybe an aggressive port on your N/A. If you do that you will probably want an SAFCII and tune the injectors, maybe an upgraded fuel pump. My Walbro was $70 and the install takes less then an hour for someone that is slightly experienced.

I guess, the real question is money. If money is unlimited, a TII would be great. Lots of power gains. Lots of people in the 350 hp range.

I chose to stay with my N/A mostly because the price was right and my goal is to get an FD. So for now I am going to stay with my N/A as a daily driver. It is fast enough to beat most of the wanna be racers around the area, and i love the handling.

If you plan on dedicating lots of time to the FC, then get a TII. You could consider talking to Aaron Cake and finding out what it would take to maybe boost 8psi. I know you can get some small turbos that spool quick off ebay for around $150. All the other stuff you are going to need is going to cost a lot.

Cost is the biggest factor. What kind of budget are you talking about? How much money can you devote to your car every month?

meximan

iTrader: (37)

well its not really that at all, i can save money when i want something im stuck on getting it. knowing the numbers would be nice though...now finding a tII in a junkyard around here ive found to be well for me impossible, its hard enough finding a s5, and s4 junkers are just a few...how much would it cost to get it done? i guess you could say the goal for my car is this, as of now its my DD, but i would like to garage it buy a little ugly commuter especially for the coming winter, cuz i live out in the boonies, and would like to dump some cash into this engine idea..an fc has been my dream car since i was little, i dont plan on getting rid of it, and when im old this little toy will be parked in my garage :P

ddub

No. Not if you do it right that is with a thermostatic switch. Then the fan will turn on only when needed. Running it all the time would be stupid and exponentially decrease the life of the fan.

Not really. It's been proven the power increase in not having to drive it by the motor is less than a hp.

Not if you know how to drive properly

At first yes you will probably have issues, but after a day or two of driving it you should have no problems if you are competent with driving a manual.

Rx7TyreBurna

iTrader: (1)

If you are going to stick with your car, I would probably stay N/A.

If you are going to want to do some racing, there are N/A based classes, in which only N/A cars run.

I would probably try and keep your car mostly stock and clean looking inside and out. And that will help a ton later. A nice clean stock looking FC turns heads.

I will post some pics of my A/F guage placement later. Painted the metal mount with some spray on rhino lining. Looks nice, and the black textured paint matches the plastic around it.

Stay N/A. Enchance the handling that is already there. Maybe some nice rims, tires, and some RB springs and KYB AGX's. Drop your car a little but not too much. Handling will greatly improve. Also consider poly bushings. Then focus on power after that. Not a whole lot you can do for power, but there are little things.

Port and an SAFCII will probably be the best power your going to get from a N/A and keep it streetable.

MWMburton

the theromostatic switch? like a whole new cooling system or what? cause i wanna do a cooling system like an fd where it kicks off when the car is cool not when the engine is shut off.

i dunno i take it from the profesionals so when they say u'll bog, i belive em so when i do my swap probably wont do a lighter flywheel for a while.

n if u do a TII swap, i heard that if u run a 3 inch downpipe u'll get turbo creep n hit fuel cut, pop there goes ur engine. so TII + standalone = probably very very good.

eriksseven

iTrader: (6)

Who says dDuB isn't a professional?

Healing

IMO, for power, its not really worth modding the N/A unless you have money to go with a nicely tuned streetport/BP.

With my completely bone stock N/A, I'm waiting on my 16x8's to come in along with new tires so I can get my 4 pot brake/5 lug conversion up. I'll probably hit shocks/springs or coilovers next...
BTW eriksseven, if you have any experience, how would you compare the AGX/RSR combo with coilovers? I'm strongly considering that same setup as well, it just seems it cannot be beat for the price!

ddub

Thermostatic switch is a little thermostat/switch piece that helps control the fan. It has a probe that goes into the radiator and then a little dial. The dial controls the temperature at which the fan will turn on/off. So once the coolant gets hot enough, fan on, once it cools off, fan off. Very simple, just research it.

And what "professionals" say you'll bog? I had an aluminum flywheel daily driving it in very hilly/dense traffic areas and never had an issue. So

You just have to get used to it and know how to drive it in certain situations.

MWMburton

ok well i would tell u where i got my info if i could find the site. i read it somewhere n i ******* cant find it now so i guess i'll take ur word for it. compared to u im a huge newb. n i totally agree with u about knowing how to use it in the right situations.

n the clutch fan thing, went n talked to friends n it frees up quite a bit more horespowere than u think. its like 5-10. granted it is very very hard to feel a 5-10 hp increase it still is there. the fan is like a unnessicary load on ur engine, its like a parachute on a dragster, it slows u down. granted im exagerating in the comparison but u get the idea. an electric fan is a all a round good thing to have. u can turn it on when u want to heat ur car up quicker in the morning n if no one knows where the switch is when they steal it they wont get too far. lol

ddub

Maybe its 5-10 hp on some car some out there, even though I still doubt it, but not the 2nd gen rx7. People have proven it on the dyno, its almost nothing. The stock fan doesn't even cause load unless it engages. It is free spinning when your temps are cool enough. Plus you also have to remember the electric fan draws power from the electrical system which causes load which will draw power from the car also.

MWMburton

but it does an effective job at cooling the car. the clutch fan is their to let more air cool the car while on the go, when going up hill u dont go very fast n put a lot of strain on ur engine, this is one situation where an electric fan will help. and at an idol, well at least my car will get a little warmer than i want it to if i leave it idol for a while.

n it be proven on the dyno but im talkin crank cause getting power to the wheels is much more difficult

Healing

^^What?

I'm not sure what you're talking about. Forum threads have consistantly arrived at the verdict that an e-fan does nothing more than clean up the engine bay, and provide an alternative for a failed clutch fan. The clutch fan moves just as much air, if not more, than the e-fan.

I'm not sure what you're trying to prove with that dyno comment as well; one might think that there would be a direct correlation between dyno hp and crank hp...