Ok, since I blew a front rotor on the dyno at ABF I've started the repair process. Ordered 2 x 720cc Greddy fuel injectors for the secondary fuel rail. Pulled the ECU and mailed it off to Digital Tuning to upgrade from a Rtek 1.5 to a 1.7. Started the engine removal process. Made threw step #3 of the Rotary Resurection engine removal guide.

 

That sucks I wish I had an engine to start with

 

good luck on that, i pulled the motor in my 88 TII when i thought it was blown... wish the previous owner told me about the fuel kill switch that was cleverly disguised... motor didn't blow and i didn't have to lost 3k to the derkey jerkey...

 

Donald,

I'm the guy at the dyno you asked about mixing 110 octane with 92 octane and, when you commented you had an "Rtek" chip, I said I was not familiar with them....at which point you presumed I was not a "2nd gen guy", because they are apparently so common. Anyway, perhaps things have changed a great deal in the last, oh, 7 years since I last looked into the chip upgrades, but I never paid them any attention after some engineer-types checked into them in detail and discovered that the ones on the market at the time did nothing but raise the rev limit and eliminate boost fuel cut (or just raise it). This despite the advertising claims much to the contrary; claims that they actually remapped the fuel and ignition, but really did not. So, perhaps the world has passed me by in the last several years, but I was totally unaware that there were ANY reputable chip upgrades on the market (EDIT: I mean for RX-7s. I know there are reputable upgrades for other vehicles) and I certainly don't know the Rtek brand. I'm just wondering if, perhaps, things have not really changed and you should re-think your engine management? No one I have known has ever admitted to using this chip, nor have I used one myself, so I can't comment personally. Anyone else out there using one?

--
Blake Qualley

 

Don, Wish you luck with everything, just make sure you label everything and make sure you know where your ground points are and you'll be fine. It's too bad your motor blew. Are you gonna go with a Jspec engine? After that point you will have two bad *** FC's well I mean you already do, but with fresh engines.

 

Don, let me know if you want some help

 

http://www.pocketlogger.com/index.php?pid=home
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showthread.php?t=244567
Designed by rx7club & team fc3s forum member Henrik

 

My current plan is to put a Jspec in from japan2LA and eventually rebuild the old one. The car is going to my 16 yr/old son as soon as he shows me a B average. We are doing the engine swap together. Woundup7's Jspec in his 82 ran pretty good on the dyno at ABF.

Questions:

1) Can I plug a S5 into a S4 ECU?
2) Should I get a S4?
3) Should I get a S4 with a S5 exhaust manifold & turbo?
4) Whats involved with replacing the water/oil seals. Compression is guaranteed but what if the seals are bad?

 

yea im workin on that B average...almost got it ...

 

Basically if you went through that much trouble you might as well replace all the metal seals, (apex seals, side seals, corner seals) as well, its basically a full rebuild. You have to crack open the block, and remove those seals out and then you'll want to clean all and spec all the parts while your at it. You can get the kit from Atkins for under $200, for just the water seals and gaskets. The oil seals you have to purchase separetly probably around $50. The water seals are what will be joining the housings together, the oil seals will be in the rotors themself.

Your probably better off taking their word for it and installing the motor as is. I'm pretty sure the seals will be good as long as the motor was cared for and if it has low mileage.



That should be a very nice car for your son Don.

 

take a jspec importer's word for it? bad idea...

 

well if its a local place and they ahve a warnettee u can bring it back and THROW THE MOTOR THREW THERE FRONT WINDOW!

im installing an FCON today ill see if that makes much of a diff on the t2 i just got,

 

Questions:

1) Can I plug a S5 into a S4 ECU and wiring harness?
2) Should I get a S4?
3) Should I get a S4 with a S5 exhaust manifold & turbo?
4) Whats involved with replacing the water/oil seals. Compression is guaranteed but what if the seals are bad?

Roto Gurus help?

 

u could technically use a S5 motor with S4 hardware, tho i think theres a few differences, which u'd come across on the way... the S5 exhaust manifold in turbo from what i've heard is slightly more efficient, thats why i got one, probly gonna have it rebuilt by BNR, 4 is just a rebuild... which while ur at it u might as well replace all apex seals, side seals, corner seals, and springs... and oil control o-rings...

 

S-4 and S-5 computers look almost identical. The difference is in the three plugs that plug into the ECU The plug heads are different shape, and sizes so no dice there. You can buy a S-5 long block and swap all the sensor for your S-4 ones, people have done that before. But if you are running emissions probably not worth the hassle. If it were me i would stick with a s-4 engine, do the swap and get it running smooth, then swap over the to s-5 turbo and exhaust etc. S-4 block has lower compression, and its plug and play.!
You didnt even let your car cool down before tearing into it. Good luck Don.

 

I definately want to retain the S4 ecu and wiring harness.

 

good luck man!

 

I was thinking last night I might have gave you the wrong info. I was thinking inside the box and not outside, lol. Definetly you would want to replace the front and rear main seals at the least, which were the oil seals you were referring to. There is really nothing to it just get a seal puller and then lube the new ones with grease when you put them in flush.

 

Ok, Im getting a S5 with 27k miles on it / 120 psi on all rotor seals. Can someone tell if I'm doing this right?

Remove front housing off S4 core and put on S5
Remove UIM fuel rail & throttle body off S4 core and put on S5 - low impedance injectors
Parts needed = front cover & UIM gaskets, plus high temp gasket sealer for oil pan. Clutch, pilot berring, pressure plate. Port WG. Remove air pump and ACV.

Im still not sure if there's an issue with connecting the S4 tranny to the S5 engine.

 

I think you may have to change over the water pump housing as well not totally sure. I have to grind the top on my front cover from a 85 gsl se and the bottom of the S-5 water pump housing to clearance them to fit. You may find a similiar problem. If the s-4 water pump housing fits use it instead of grinding. It take a while to grind away. No issues with the tranny to worry about. I was using my stock 12A to the S-5 turbo engine for the first month. Have fun.

 

The water pump goes with the front cover so I don't anticipate any issues there. You have a sweet setup there Chirs, I really want to see your 1/4 times. After seeing your car I'm sure your going to get bumped up to the modded class next year.

 

Got home from work Monday, did a little league game and squeezed in removing the DP, AC & PS before bedtime. Sent money order out for 27k mile/120 psi JDM motor. Worked for 7:AM till midnight Tuesday so no time but plan on preping the wiring harness after baseball practice tonight.

 

Jimmy I hope you can figure out how to put this back in Buahahahaha

 

Holy smokes! I remember my fc motor swap. What a nightmare. Don, good luck.

 

for simplicity's sake, id just get a s4 motor, and then get a manifold and turbo from a S5.

Hell the manifolds are probably the same between s4 and s5 so all you would really need is the turbo.

The turbo out of the s5 is more efficient