Kouta

So... I tried to take another shot at my bouncing idle issue today. Warmed up car to normal operating temperatures... IE: took my car to the parts store to drop off my old oil and back home. Took off the TMIC, and then unhooked the TPS and then took the readings... it wont really stay at the same reading will be at .7k ohms one time, blip the throttle 1.4k ohms, blip it again and its 1.1k... but thats if i blip it at the throttle body, if i go into the car I can get it to a somewhat constistant 1k... after getting it to stay at around 1k ohms for quite a few presses on the throttle from inside the car I go out and drive it... and now the bouncing idle is worse (than it was yesterday)... and always there... in neutral, in gear, clutch in or out... only time its not bouncing is when i am actually on the gas and even then when i let off... its like something is reading too high or something and it stays at about 3k rpm for about a quarter to a full second then goes back down to the 1k-1.6k rpm bouncing. Could this just be due to the TPS making the mixture more rich than it should be... bad TPS? monkeys invading mars? Its really bothering me that I can't pin this down and get it working right.

I was thinking maybe a combination of a bad TPS and a battle throttle return spring? if its the latter ... how would ya fix it? ( i am sure i could look in my fsm, and haynes manual and somewhat try to decypher that...)

Yes, I am stupid. Thanks for reading this post and if you have any insight it will be greatly appreciated.

woundup7

iTrader: (1)

Mine does the same thing just not as bad. It will bounce at idle between 900 and 1300 and not always do it. Only does it after i have driven it a ways and sometimes if I blip the throttle once it will settle down into a nice steady idle. Makes me think it might be a worn out return spring. at least on my car. Try shooting the whole area with wd40 or silicon spray and just saturate all the part on throttle body/throttle cable area. May be it is binding up on something. Hope that helps

Kouta

I cleaned down the springs and made sure the fast idle screw (whatever screw that is that stops it) was secure and not moving... put some threadlocker on my TPS screw so it wont wiggle lose anymore. Checked the TPS again... set at 1010ohms.

Then I went to adjust the idle via that screw a bit and the pulsing idle went away... but only if your foot is off the clutch, when the clutch is in it will do the pulsing.

It seems like a vacuum leak... but I can't find it anywhere unless its somewhere on my manifolds (i have all the emissions removed, no BAC valve either... thats how i bought it) and hiding from my starting fluid and not raising/lowering the rpm enough for me to notice (well through the pulsing you can still tell since i made a vacuum leak and sprayed in there and it went up)...

but i went to go drive it again and it just seems like it can accelerate *alot* faster than it could before. I have a little test "loop" that i do... i go onto the freeway onramp and its 2 lanes going onto it and uphill and I was able to get to 60mph about 3ish car lengths before I normally do.

This whole thing is really freaking confusing the hell out of me.

KompressorLOgic

iTrader: (6)

my s5 has idle issues also... it doenst like to drop down all the way sometimes, it will get stuck at 1400 or 1100 sometimes, and sometimes idles nice, at 800, then surges a lil sometimes, or idles rough at 700ish

Kouta

I guess I just find it annoying/embarassing to have it surging when i am at a stop light or decelerating or whatever and it draws attention of it being a messed up car... especially when I got pulled over going to portland a few months ago and it was really pulsing pretty bad.

KompressorLOgic

iTrader: (6)

lol yeah... when i had the loud 1500-1700 puls over and over in my t2 a bike cop pulled up next to me at a light and was like..
"whats wrong with your car" and im like i donno TPS or a leak or something... then hes like "ohh ic ... kinda exuberates the fact that your exhaust is illegal huh??" then i just looked forward after that .... lol then he drove off

Kouta

Yeah, I am just glad we were on a pretty busy freeway and there was alot of semi's going past and it was drowning out the sound of my car... even though any time he was talking to me he kept stareing right at the boost gauge :p

Yeah... if you remember how annoying and retarded my car was at the St. Helens run last year... yeah its the same again... fixing it just made the thing bounce higher its so beautifully retarded, and I have no idea what to do at this point. I feel like just taking everything apart and seeing wtf is wrong... but I can't really do that since its my daily driver and i'm in apartments (well I dont worry about that too much anymore... seeing as how i change my own oil and fix it all the time now haha).
I would post this into the 2nd gen forums but they would probably just say TPS or vacuum leak. My TPS is fine, vacuum leak i checked as best as I could. So... i will just spam the NW forums :p

Edit: I just thought of something I might do... going to see if it dosn't do anything

Kouta

Sorry about the double posting... I guess its been more than 30 minutes since my last post if a mod comes into here they can combine all my posts or just delete the thread and I will remake it alot more clean. Anyways... my "idea"

My car would *not* idle below 1000rpm.
The fast idle adjustment screw can be completely out and it will idle at about 1050ish or higher after blipping the throttle.
If I try to force it to go more closed via the throttle at the throttle body, it will idle at about 700rpm, when its at this RPM I don't have the pulsing *at all* clutch in/out whathave you.
This brings up my question, I don't have an ACV installed, if i reinstall that I will be able to restrict some of the air coming in at idle, then when I am accelerating it dosn't do anything right (like full open)? If so then how hard is it to install one... I know this makes me sound stupid, but I am a visual/touch learner... if i cannot physically see it and know what it is, then I have no idea about it other than what it might do roughly. My idea right now is that I have an ACV blockoff plate installed on my upper intake manifold on the passenger side near the top (i know there is a blockoff plate there and i am going to say its for the ACV), but after that I have no idea how where the vacuum lines go/come from...

Boost Lee

iTrader: (3)

I can take a crack at it if you want. I've been pretty sucessful with S5 TII idle problems.

Kouta

It looks like its just the throttle cable was being difficult. Loosened it a little and now I don't get the pulsing problems as bad, only about 200rpm, i am going to play with it a little more when its a sunny day/don't have work and then readjust the TPS to whatever its set to. But as it stands right now, I pulse about 2-5 times then it levels out and purrs at about 1k rpm.

woundup7

iTrader: (1)

Glad you figured it out! Did you just loosen the nuts on the t cable right above the linkage?

Kouta

Yeah, letting it have more slack between those nuts and the throttle body.
Will be looking for a new throttle cable sometime anyways... mine is all melted from the original engine starting on fire and melting the cable and it being kinda kinked up.
Its always something completely wierd and easy like that for me, but also when you learn about it everything becomes easy, just time consuming... but I like learning more about my car, even though its hard for me to learn at times and i ask alot of stupid questions.