The FD Restoration - $$$$ Damnit
Welded in the new air temp sensor bung and in the process of checking everything before I do the final wiring harness wrap. The fan setup I have is pretty effective, may go one step further and put fans on the oil coolers. Enjoy to vid.
http://videos.streetfire.net/video/e...b000bd6140.htm
http://videos.streetfire.net/video/e...b000bd6140.htm
I know one is push and one is pull.
Re the oil cooler fans: are you planning to put fans on both coolers?
I am planning to put a 5.2 inch Spal pull fan on one of the coolers. The oil temps have not gotten out of line yet, but I just want the option to help cool the oil down between autox runs.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 2,913
Likes: 4
From: Kingman, AZ
I jumpered to the stock thermo sensor.
Fan Controller - FAN-PWM - Description: Automatic Programmable Fan Controller
This water resistant controller is programmable, and will read almost all OEM and Aftermarket sensors on the market.
-Programmable to activate at any temperature
-Factory programmed to 160° Low, 200° High
-Variable speed for reduced fan noise
-Uses OEM or optional SPAL Temp Sensor
-Waterproof extruded aluminum construction
-LED indicators for High, Low, and A/C
Relay Kit - Required if you run more than one fan.
http://www.spalusa.com/fans/automate...85FH-195FH.pdf
Pull Fan - 14" Straight Blade - High Performance Fan 1720 CFM - Part Number: 30102041
Previous Part Number(s): 30100248 (VA08-AP6-23MA)
Description: VA08 - AP70/LL - 23MA
http://www.spalusa.com/fans/automate.../2041-2055.pdf
Push Fan - 12" Straight Blade - Medium Profile Fan 1230 CFM - 12" Straight - Part Number: 30101505
Description: VA10 - AP50/C - 25S
http://www.spalusa.com/fans/automate.../1504-1505.pdf
And the fan I may get for one oil cooler - PULL 5.2" Paddle Blade -Motorcycle/ATV Fan 313 CFM- Part Number: 30103011
Description: VA31 - A101 - 46A
http://www.spalusa.com/fans/automate.../3013-3011.pdf
Fan Controller - FAN-PWM - Description: Automatic Programmable Fan Controller
This water resistant controller is programmable, and will read almost all OEM and Aftermarket sensors on the market.
-Programmable to activate at any temperature
-Factory programmed to 160° Low, 200° High
-Variable speed for reduced fan noise
-Uses OEM or optional SPAL Temp Sensor
-Waterproof extruded aluminum construction
-LED indicators for High, Low, and A/C
Relay Kit - Required if you run more than one fan.
http://www.spalusa.com/fans/automate...85FH-195FH.pdf
Pull Fan - 14" Straight Blade - High Performance Fan 1720 CFM - Part Number: 30102041
Previous Part Number(s): 30100248 (VA08-AP6-23MA)
Description: VA08 - AP70/LL - 23MA
http://www.spalusa.com/fans/automate.../2041-2055.pdf
Push Fan - 12" Straight Blade - Medium Profile Fan 1230 CFM - 12" Straight - Part Number: 30101505
Description: VA10 - AP50/C - 25S
http://www.spalusa.com/fans/automate.../1504-1505.pdf
And the fan I may get for one oil cooler - PULL 5.2" Paddle Blade -Motorcycle/ATV Fan 313 CFM- Part Number: 30103011
Description: VA31 - A101 - 46A
http://www.spalusa.com/fans/automate.../3013-3011.pdf
And the fan I may get for one oil cooler - PULL 5.2" Paddle Blade -Motorcycle/ATV Fan 313 CFM- Part Number: 30103011
Description: VA31 - A101 - 46A
http://www.spalusa.com/fans/automate.../3013-3011.pdf
That 5.2" fan is the same one I plan to get.
Soon as I install my delrin bushings.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 2,913
Likes: 4
From: Kingman, AZ
With my frustration level at a all time high, I took a few days off this week to decompress.
I still have electrical issues, but these are due to removing a few to many items on the original wiring. I need to wire in some resistors where the emissions control valves used to be so my air pump will work and I need to add piggyback relays to the after market fan setup so signals can be sent to the ECU so it knows at what level the fans are running.
I also have pretty major fuel leaks. Looks as thought the primary pulsation dampener gave up the ghost and my custom primary rail fitting had a hair line crack at the weld. Probably caused by a moment from the fuel line to the pressure regulator. At least it happened during buildup and test and not after I had completed the car and see it go up in flames a few days later. Redid the fitting and Spyder's getting me a new fuel dampener.
The passenger rear fender well has a plastic liner in place now to get rid of the aero drag pocket the Re street diffuser would have caused. The liner came from an old driver side front fender liner.
Yeah, I wanna go to Hawaii, yeah.
I still have electrical issues, but these are due to removing a few to many items on the original wiring. I need to wire in some resistors where the emissions control valves used to be so my air pump will work and I need to add piggyback relays to the after market fan setup so signals can be sent to the ECU so it knows at what level the fans are running.
I also have pretty major fuel leaks. Looks as thought the primary pulsation dampener gave up the ghost and my custom primary rail fitting had a hair line crack at the weld. Probably caused by a moment from the fuel line to the pressure regulator. At least it happened during buildup and test and not after I had completed the car and see it go up in flames a few days later. Redid the fitting and Spyder's getting me a new fuel dampener.
The passenger rear fender well has a plastic liner in place now to get rid of the aero drag pocket the Re street diffuser would have caused. The liner came from an old driver side front fender liner.
Yeah, I wanna go to Hawaii, yeah.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 2,913
Likes: 4
From: Kingman, AZ
Lol, thanks Marc.
Finally fixed all the pinhole fuel leaks, had to abandon some fittings and weld on permanent AN fittings on both the primary and secondary fuel rails. The last pin hole leak was so small that I was getting ~1 mm bubbles every 2 seconds.
Anyways, got the fan setup done, with all the ecu integration and I got my 5.2 inch fan for the oil cooler. Need to figure out a clever mounting arragement for it.
Still have an issue with the air pump not turning on, even with all emissions sensors connected. So I nned to figure out what wrong or figure out an alternative control, maybe something connected to the 9 volt resistor for the fuel pump.
Finally fixed all the pinhole fuel leaks, had to abandon some fittings and weld on permanent AN fittings on both the primary and secondary fuel rails. The last pin hole leak was so small that I was getting ~1 mm bubbles every 2 seconds.
Anyways, got the fan setup done, with all the ecu integration and I got my 5.2 inch fan for the oil cooler. Need to figure out a clever mounting arragement for it.
Still have an issue with the air pump not turning on, even with all emissions sensors connected. So I nned to figure out what wrong or figure out an alternative control, maybe something connected to the 9 volt resistor for the fuel pump.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 2,913
Likes: 4
From: Kingman, AZ
Wiring mostly done, buttoning up everything back together. Got my tires in and mounted, Bridgestone RE-01Rs, 265 Rear and 255 Front.
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires....Potenza+RE-01R
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires....Potenza+RE-01R
Thread Starter
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 2,913
Likes: 4
From: Kingman, AZ
Progress Hoooooo
Relocated the fuel pump idle resistor to under the car and closer to fuse box and fuel pump. This sucker gets hot, therefore it stays outside.
Also found a mounting location for my XS engineering ignition amplifier. And I need to route the cluster F in the driver foot well.
Relocated the fuel pump idle resistor to under the car and closer to fuse box and fuel pump. This sucker gets hot, therefore it stays outside.
Also found a mounting location for my XS engineering ignition amplifier. And I need to route the cluster F in the driver foot well.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 2,913
Likes: 4
From: Kingman, AZ
Alright, dash is in (thanks to the help from Mitch), wiring complete, added an accessory outlet plug in the glove box (like to F-up plug above it?) and will be modifying the glove boxes strike to get rid of the annoying gap present on all 93's. Also started installing the Race Shop roll bar, unfortunately all the hardware that went with this kit is MIA, so I have to source equivalent replacements. Had a massive migraine yesterday; felt like I was going to puck every time I moved; no fun.








