http://www.bellintercoolers.com/pages/AACore.html

You seriously are going to stick with stock mount?

 

Well I got my side plates, JHB Cermet B coated rotor housing and seal kit in today.

The machinist had to take off 0.004" for both the front and rear plate, 0.005" and 0.003" for the rear and front respectively on the center plate. He also said that the center plate was 0.0035" out of parallel. Hopefully the TiN is still intact on all the faces, will have to test the micro surface hardness to confirm.

The Cermet B housing needs to be port matched and have my intended coolant mod performed on it.

I've decided to stick with my original front rotor housing mostly due to my finances and it's still in good shape. That is rather amazing considering it has a little over 100K miles on it and it has gone through four engine failures now. I just plan on cleaning it up a little with a little lapping.

 

I am strongly considering retrofitting my cluster for the DG203 and DG217 gauges.

Any issues with mounting the sensors? Not sure what to order / how to integrate them. Particularly the oil pressure and temp gauges.

 

For the oil pressure sensor, I bought the ReSpeed oil pedastal and oil temp sensor I tied into the Mocal oil thermostat (or you can do this http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pro...p?Product=1227 , I have one but didn't install it because it was rather large). Water temp sensor I welded in a bunge, note I was able to do this because the air pump is no longer in the stock position. Beyond that for accuracy sake there really isn't any other place to put it.

A good place to put the boost sensor would be to remove the -40F idle control unit under the UIM. You should be able to tap that opening.

Installing the gauges into the dash is tedious, time consuming and rather involved. Good Luck on that, scroll back on this listing for some install photos.

I'm totally sold on the SPA gauges, once my funds are back up I will be getting the dual EGT unit and a Boost/Air temp setup. I can tie those signals into the datalogit for improved accuracy of my tuning.

http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pro...asp?RecId=2942
http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pro...asp?RecId=4801

 

Alright, finished exhaust porting, porting coolant passages and adding my custom external cooling system on my Cermet B rear rotor housing. I opened up the exhaust porting and coolant passages on my front rotor housing as well.

Will be cleaning and prepping parts for the motor buildup tomorrow.

Peace

 

Here are pictures of the external cooling system. Or at least one part of it.

 

Welding the AN fittings was a bitch, but I was able to do it without warping the rotor housing. Used some stuff that prevents heat transfer, though I used way too much and had to remove most of what I up on in order to actually weld the fittings on.

 

Who did your lapping? I skimmed through the
the last few pages but didn't see you mention
it. I have a couple irons I wouldn't mind having
done.

 

Precise Machining in Vancouver, but they only accept "non-retail" work. I have an in on that one. Sorry to disappoint.

Eccentric shaft oil galleys are tear dropped now.

A little snaffu on the rotor bearings, the wrong ones were pressed in. Will have to fix that before the motor goes back together. Probably won't be able to get it built this weekend.

 

Never heard of tear dropping the e-shaft. Care to explain?

 

Well, visualize the small clearance of the rotor bearing and eccentric shaft. Now visualize the speed at which the eccentric shaft is spinning around that bearing at 8,500 rpm's. So that oil port will travel roughly 34000 inches or 2800 ft per minute. That's a lot of potential shear stress (friction). Oil is the medium that prevents that shear (friction). So in order the help the oil do it's job, the tear dropping in effect allows the oil to taper off and disperse along the bearing surface. That "tapering" reduces the negative affects of the instant change in direction the oil experiences when coming out of the oil passage, which in effect reduces the shear forces (friction) of the oil at those ports. The benefit is an immeasurable reduction in mechanical friction.

If you ever are able to look at a crank off a race motor that's designed to rev in the 5 digits you will see tear drops at every oil port or ports that taper away from the direction of rotation.

 

So it kind of helps the oil fan out behind the flow instead of trying to do a direct 90 degree . Would this help with possible cavitation or the oil not being able to keep up/being efficient with the higher revs ?

 

Yes

If your seeing cavitation at that point your motor will be bye bye very shortly. The oil pressure is high enough in that region where cavitation should never occur unless your starving you motor of oil. Somewhat not being able keeping up, they'res more to it that just flow. Oil pressure, the rate at which the oil weeps out of the bearing surface, the composition of the oil (friction modifiers), etc.


The competition rotor bearings are pressed in now. Will be building the motor soon.

 

Adam

I love reading this thread (forward thinking)

did you have to re-balance after the "teardrop" modification?

Love to see the cooling results of that rotor housing.

P.S. are those KRONTEC fittings?

 

If I planned to rev this motor well beyond 8500 rpm yes I would need to re-balance the eccentric shaft as well as lighten and balance the rotors. flywheel balance weight and probably add a front shaft harmonic balancer. But, I'm not, so no I don't. The few grams a took off isn't enough to make a real difference at stock rev limits. Actually, the rotors are a more important item to balance than the eccentric shaft.

Plus, I don't have the time or extra money to do all that balance work.

I got the fittings at Oil Filter Supply and I believe they're Earl fittings.

 

I'm going to make some additional cooling mods now, after discussing with Barry Bordes on the forum about cooling in another thread. Already did some porting of the front housing cooling ports. The leading spark plug coolant port has rather restrictive architecture due to a dowel pin boss being in the way. Did some porting, but was limited in what I could do due to the tight space afforded. It should help though.

 

Also, for those who are wondering here's a visual comparison to a stock rotor bearing and competition one. Also the stationarey gear bearing with some oil mods done by Pineapple.

 

I found a guy who will lap mine, can you tell me what you
ment by this quote, so I know if this guy scraps em' though?
The the front, mid, and rear, chromed like housings, is that
what you ment?

 

Yes, it's a thin layer of low friction protective coating that if removed your motor won't last very long. Around 0.007" thick on each face I believe when stock. I should have roughly 0.003" - 0.004" left on my housings after the lapping.

 

Well had a snafu yesterday, the corner seals were a little too tight. So I made a series of dies to remove material to get the clearance needed. Also waiting for the RTV to dry on the bolts that will be used as dual purpose coolant passages. It's there to dampen harmonics seen at the bolt if anyones wondering.

I also got my rebuilt turbo back. Thank you A-Spec Tuning. Did some porting and polishing on the compressor. The porting kit I got from Baxter's rocks, it just makes a mess.

 

Mo Pics

 

external cooling source. . . i must have missed something!?!?!

 

Take a closer look at post 781 and 782.

 

Alright, took the day off to work on the 7. Was hoping I was going to be able to get it on the road by Sunday, but I missing some critical turbo parts. Should be able to drop in the motor this weekend though.

In the mean time I made myself a copper turbo inlet gasket (just need to anneal it) and in the process of making some turbo heat shielding. Wasn't quite able to get complete coverage, but it should work. Turbo is next.

 

Your setup looks awesome...how many horsies is that good for?