If anyone has done this install and they have tips and or pictures please post them so I can get an Idea of what I am getting myself into. I don't imagine it will be too hard but pics would be nice.

thanks!!

-Chris

 

I had that setup, pretty straight forward install, will have to do some trimming of BOV lines though. Make sure you put the vac lines on before bolting down the assembly. Do you have all the seals?

 

Thanks for the advice on the Vac lines. I have a couple of gaskets that it came with if thats what you mean. Other than that I dont have any seals. Are there specific ones I need to get?!

Right now I am running stock by-pass off the turbos. If I go to a BOV how will I need to change the lines?

Thanks!

 

There's only three gaskets, one large one for the pipe joint and two smaller ones for the turbo outlets.

You shouldn't have to change the lines other than trim them for a new BOV setup for the stock plumbing. I have an Apexi unit for sale that's setup specifically for the stock FD plumbing.

If you want something different, it will require some fabrication. I also have a Greddy RS unit with a weld on flange.

 

I have a HKS set-up for the FD stock intake system an also have the "whoosh" insert which I'm sure I'd be willin to sell cuz I prefer the whistle, that is, if you want it. The BOV is used, the kit is not.

 

well actually as far as the BOV goes I think I am going to go with that Synapse racing Synchronic BOV. I was pretty impressed with the performance on that.

On another note. I decided that I wanted to give installing that y-pipe a try today. Got in and took the upper intake feed for the back turbo out, took out the bypass lines and got the stock crossover pipe off. After that I hit a wall. It looked like I would need to take the Air pump partially apart. Or at least the lines on it. There were a couple of rubber hoses I took out easy enough, but then there were a couple of metal lines that wrapped around behind the Upper intake manaflold on the engine. Do I need to take those lines out? Then also the Metal Turbo Inlet pipe that runs down next to the ABS and into the turbo how does that come out. If I can get that figured out I will be able to get to the stock y-pipe and get that out. I think I only have 2 gaskests I will need to check on that. At this point I had to stop and put everything back together so that I could go to work. =( On the up side I can now take it apart to that point. I have pictures but I will need to get them on the computer before I can up-load them for coments.

Any tips would be nice. I think I am going to post this in the 3rd gen section as well.

-chris

 

well I just read through a couple of other y-pipe install threads and I think I might be getting in over my head. My biggest concern is lack of tools. Would anyone be willing to help me do this install? Otherwise I may have to contact a shop.

 

Yes you need to take those tubes off, the rear turbo inlet pipe off and if you need tools just go to Sears and get yourself a simple tool set that includes a 10mm wrench, 10mm deep socket, ratched and long needle nose pliers. Not too complicated, but some of the stuff is a real bitch to remove.

If you do get the Synapse unit, be sure too grease up the seal before installing the BOV. I have a Greddy flange that I won't be using, so if you buy the greddy elbow and need the flange hit me up.

Good luck

 

OK! Tim helped me last night and we got the y-pipe installed. When we started the car back up after everything was attached it Idled good and we knew that we had all the Vac lines attached right. However, when I tap on the throttle when it releases to go back to idle just before there is a "Rattle" that is short and metalic. We think that it is either coming from the O-ring between the rear turbo outlet and the y-pipe or that it is coming from the butterfly valve that is in that rear outlet pipe? I would like to know if anyone has heard anything similar in there car and they have an idea on how to fix it.

I drove the car around a bit last night and we could not hear a boost leak at all and it did not feel like there was one. At first the boost would go to 10psi Spike to 12psi and then drop down to 8psi. After about 30min of driving it seamed to go back to the standard 10psi with a short 12psi spike. I think the original boost drop just had to do with the new gaskets sealing up properly. If anyone has an idea of what is causing this weird noise just after taping the throttle I would like to know.

thanks to everyone who gave advice it was very helpful!


-Chris

 

Hey Chris, I was thinking about it this morning a little, remember how the Efini pipe was a little easier to connect/disconnect from the butterfly portion of the pipe, I wonder if maybe that joint is a little loose and rattling?? No problem with the CRV or the butterfly assembly, but just the two pieces rattling against each other...

What do you think?

 

that sounds like it could be the case. But if it is how do we fix it?!

 

Duct tape?

 

well I am going to veto the Duct tape. But I think we are going to need to find out what is causing that noise. I want to get it fixed. I was wondering if next monday might work for you since I will be off?? or tuesday I am off too?

 

Rattle could also be your engine torque brace.

Stethoscope all around the areas that the sound seems to be emanating from using a 24" piece of 1/4" or 3/8" tubing or hose placed in your ear.

Good luck.

chuck

 

we know for sure that it is th o-ring on the y-pipe. other than the rattle there is no problem so I am not super concerned at the moment.