scottj8666

Hey all, I'm the proud new owner of a bone stock and unmolested 1984 GSL-SE with a 13b RE-EGI. 117,000 miles. It will be my daily driver for 7 or 8 month's of the year. I would like to do some modest mods and minor weight reduction. I've been digging around in this forum for a few weeks now and i have found the answers to some of my questions. But i have more.

I gather that a lot of member's advise running a pre-mix in the fuel - is this just for carb'ed cars or should i be doing this in my F.I.? Two stroke oil??? How much?

My exhaust is crumbling from the block back, I plan to replace it with RB's complete catless system and loose the air pump. Will the stock ICU compensate for this or should i be looking for another solution?

The A/C is going the way of the buffalo and the radiator is getting green, Good time for an electric fan. Best suggestions for a better replacement radiator? The aluminum one's look kinda pricey.

Does anyone make a direct replacement gas tank? It's the only other part on the car that is almost too rusty to use.

I'm thinking i could use a little more brake. Would cross drilled rotors and better than stock pads make a lot of difference? Or not enough to warrant the cost. I know it's subjected to interpretation, I'd just like some opinions.

I'd like to thank you fellas for taking the time to read this and reply.

Regard's Scott

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

You don't need to pre mix if your metering oil pump is installed and working correctly. It's a good idea to check it to make sure that the lines aren't cracked. The pumps themselves never fail, but the lines do and the nozzles tend to get clogged. While you have the upper intake off to replace all those rotted vacuum hoses, you can take care of the oil injection as well by cleaning the nozzles with carb cleaner and replacing the lines if necessary.

No problem with the exhaust upgrade. But you will need to figure out a way to actuate you aux intake ports if the RB system does not accomplish that. They do have a takeoff for backpressure to run the ports but whether it works consistently is really based on luck. In most cases it does work, however. And you may want to add another resonator to the system because it will be a bit loud.

If all you need is a stock replacement rad, then any parts store will do. Unless you have a broken clutch fan, keep the clutch fan and don't both with the e-fan. Your alternator is already very weak and you're not going to gain anything with the e-fan.

Check with the local auto parts store on a tank. They are available. Or, hit up the the Yellow Pages and look up "tank repair" because you likely have a place close by that can rebuild the tank inexpensively if it's not too far gone. They will blast the inside and seal it up, then seal up the outside.

If the stock brake are operating to factory specs, they are fine for any street use. Make sure that the calipers are not stuck on their guide pins (common with the single pot units), bleed them, etc. Cross drilled rotors will only decrease braking capacity.

scottj8666

Thanks for taking the time to answer my post Aaron, I'm smarter now than when i woke up this morning. If it ain't broke don't fix it sounds good to me. No soap finding a Haynes Manuel around here, so i may need to get one off line somewhere. not done looking yet though. I don't think tackling all those hoses without one would be a good idea. Thanks again. Scott

Kentetsu

www.re-speed.com is working on replacement gas tanks. Nearing completion. There is a current thread on this in the 1st Gen Tech section.




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scottj8666

Check

funkjaw

iTrader: (3)

Here are some manuals online: http://foxed.ca/index.php?page=rx7manual#firstgen

Also, about the brakes. They have conversion kits to allow you to do a second generation turbo Rx7 5 lug swap. IMO not worth it but if you are truly interested you can check it out.

scottj8666

Thanks guys, I think i'll keep it close to stock for now. The things so fun to drive my butt says more,more,more. but my brain says drive it like it is and when something major goes in the engine, all bets are off

m_shake

On relatively light cars, fresh rotors, better pads (maybe like a hawk hps or hp+), stainless lines, and better fluid will make a world of difference in braking performance and feel.

boostmonkey

start hunting for a header as well.. single best non-turbo power upgrade you can make.