7zoom

Hello all,

I've been reading alot as suggested and found a question.
I've got a 94 3rd gen bone stock and want to tune her to be a proper running daily driver.
Pettit advertizes a TKT kit complete with cold air intake cat back and pulley system with "no other mods" needed grating a reliable extra 60 hp.

Another article I read in sport compact car magazine by M2 performance in Cali suggested that alot of rotary's are killed by bolting on the above mentioned parts without also upgrading the ECU. M2 suggests with out the ECU the rotary will run lean.

Who's right?


Please help Thanks

p.s. I've installed the boost gauge and ordered a downpipe with insulation for starters
7zoom

RotaryRocket88

iTrader: (7)

I won't claim to know how effective the wastegate is on a stock FD, but on FCs, adding a free-flowing intake and exhaust system will allow boost levels to creep above stock levels. Higher boost without enough fuel delivery will lead to lean conditions, which can kill a motor. This isn't so much ECU dependent as it is injector/fuel pump/wastegate dependent.

Go48

iTrader: (7)

M2 has a good point IMO. At a minimum, with those items added, it would be smart to add a capability--either a standalone ECU or piggyback--that will allow tuning of the air-fuel mixture, thereby ensuring a safe and efficient A/F mixture. And then having the car tuned by someone who knows what they're doing.

glhs0867

The information is not correct.

My good freind has a TKT, it came with a manual Greedy boost controller from Cameron Worth.

Thats how he controls the boost, with his TKT kit.

Have you seen the documentation stating the car is a true TKT and not a clone car?

should have a build number and vin# on paperwork, if not..your about to fail!!!

Supernaut

iTrader: (83)

I suggest tuning after the upgrade. People sometimes don't bother or don't do it well and run fine for a while but if you want peace of mind you make sure you take it to a pro.

NoPis10

iTrader: (29)

Just to add my input.
I purchased a 94 about 2 months ago that was built by Pettit. It has a streetported motor with downpipe/cat back/intake/pullies and an M2 computer.
Since my car was built by Pettit, reciepts and number stamped on rear housing supply proof that it was indeed built by Pettit, I would probably add a computer if I were you. I have heard that it will keep your car from running lean.

Joe

dgeesaman

iTrader: (7)

The bolt-ons vs. AFR debated raged for years until someone spent detailed time with a dyno and wideband AFR. They determined that the biggest driver in AFRs with a stock turbo system is the level of boost you're running at. The "flow" part of the system (aka the number of bolt-on mods) is not a significant part of the equation. The resulting idea was that as long as your boost is at the stock level, your AFRs will remain correct and you won't need an ECU upgrade.

The only major mistake to make anymore on an FD (aside from poor maintenance) is not having or not watching your boost gauge.

Regardless of whether you install M2 or pettit parts, if your boost stays correct you're ok. If the boost rises above 10psi (say, 11, or 12psi) you just install a boost controller and dial it back down to 10psi and all is well again.**

Since you already have a boost gauge going in, you can choose whatever you want.

There is a big (mis)conception that you need to add fuel to compensate when your bolt-ons cause increased boost levels. The real problem is the fact that the stock ECU does not adjust in boost control. You need an adjustable boost controller. While adding fuel might keep AFRs ok, it makes the tuning more crude and still doesn't solve the problem that you aren't in control of your boost. If you want more boost, just upgrade the ECU and fuel system and set the boost at the appropriate level.

** Taken it the most extreme, a highly flowing setup at 10psi cannot be controlled by any boost controller. I am referring to boost creep, where the system flows so well that the flow chokes at the wastegate. Unless you go completely straight-thru at the exhaust and have an upgraded intercooler and intake, you'll probably not see boost creep. Even if you do, the boost gauge will tell you something is wrong.

Dave

7zoom

Wow thanks everyone for the tips. I feel much more comfortable adding the basic bolt on parts now. My plan is to do them one at a time so I can feel the difference. Even if my 74k mile motor goes south I've been saving for a new one as I've heard 100K is on the good side of the life cycle.

I'll keep a close eye on my boost gauge.

Thanks

7zoom

GoodfellaFD3S

iTrader: (213)

Thanks for taking the time to post that up Dave

dgeesaman

iTrader: (7)

Consider looking into water injection. The latest water injection systems are actually quite streetable and the benefits are many. Water injection goes right to the source of many FD reliability problems (which nearly all come from high engine bay temps). Auxiliary injection isn't just for big HP anymore.

My car is nearly stock and I'm planning on installing water injection before I upgrade my radiator or intercooler.

Dave

Time 4 Rebuild

That was a good read, Maybe a sticky in the 3rd Gen section?

kit05

iTrader: (1)

yes good read