Mitchocalypse

iTrader: (2)

I'm looking at buying an RX7 but I'm not sure if it will need a rebuild. It has 89 000 km. probably about 54 000 miles. Is it strictly based on milage or are there actually sympotms? I will get the car's basic maintenence schedule and post it in a second

RotaryRocket88

iTrader: (7)

When the engine is has an internal problem like low compression, blown coolant seals, leaky oil control rings, etc... Mileage does not directly determine when you should rebuild; it would be more appropriate to say that problems that can be the result of high mileage can. Besides, 54000 miles is nothing. Contrary to popular myths, rotary engines do not have to be rebuilt every 10 seconds. A well maintained engine can go for 200k+ miles.

Mitchocalypse

iTrader: (2)

I've found this link: http://rx7.voodoobox.net/infofaq/bguide3g/bguide3g.html on the website somewhere (extremely helpful btw) So if everything from that list is a go, and I maintain it, I should begood for a little while anyways?

The whole rebuild thing just keeps gettin me. Theres only 1 recommended place to get it done (god forbid I, myself, actually do it... not happening) and they charge 6 grand but do a real good job. I can afford the car but probably not the rebuild unless I get like 15k for my current car (integra) which isn't entirely all that unlikely. The RX-7 is a 93 JDM FD with red leather (main reason me likes!!) and a C-west kit which.. i don't know the whole RX-7 communitie's feelings on body kits but in the Honda scene (as I mentionned I own an integra) you get bashed for anything other than OEM, mugen or spoon. I preffer OEM myself =) Anyways.. It looks pretty clean. I like it. I want it. I just need to see it, drive it... etc.

Actually, here is the link to the car add: http://www.autotrader.ca/used_cars_C...v=Alberta&r=20

Edit: maybe not the C-West kit but still doesn't look bad.

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

There are plenty of options for rebuilding the engine if you are willing to ship it. There are also inexpensive j-spec replacements, which can be quite affordable and high quality if you buy from a reputable dealer.

$6K is probably an "everything" rebuild, and it is not often necessary to do an "everything" rebuild. Maybe you need new housings, but the irons are almost never bad. $6K is a silly amount of money. A car that "runs like a dream" isn't going to need hard parts like rotors and housings. Probably just a "soft" rebuild (seals, gaskets) if it needs a rebuild at all.

Mitchocalypse

iTrader: (2)

exactly what i started thinking. Even If i can hold of like a year (typically like 20 000km (12000 miles) then i would be able to afford a "complete" rebuild. Not to mention I was thinking about a winter beater anyways..

Mitchocalypse

iTrader: (2)

Apex seals were just done. oil change every 2k kms (1.2k miles). car should be good for a while huh?

E46M3

Praying rebuilds won't destroy my wallet like M3 maintenance.

MadScience_7

The last shell I bought had 230,xxx miles on the clock when the engine let go. As RotaryRocket88 said, if you take care of them, they'll last a long time.

Also, even though rotaries may seem complex, they aren't hard to rebuild yourself.

Mitchocalypse

iTrader: (2)

in all honesty, they seem more simple than a piston engine.

Nyt_Muves

I am no expert, and am new to rotaries myself, but the rotary seems to have about 2/3 less moving parts than a push rod piston engine. The only thing that has me nervous is if there is scoring on the cylinder wall, or whatever it is called in a rotary, where the rotor actually makes contact. I am wondering how one would rebuild that part. With a piston engine, just bore it over a bit and install slightly larger rings. For the life of me I cant figure out what one would do to fix it in a rotary...

MadScience_7

I think they are much simpler, there's really only 3 moving parts. However, a lot of people I talk to immediately jump from different to more complex.

As far as scoring goes, if it's on the irons they can be lapped back to flat. Too much however and it will go through the nitriding (hardening) on the surface and the irons will have to be replaced. Damage to the inside of the rotor housings can't be repaired AFAIK and they will have to be replaced. But since the whole engine is a big sandwich, you only have to replace the one part that's damaged. When my last engine shat an apex seal, it tore up that one rotor housing, but the plates were fine.

Mitchocalypse

iTrader: (2)

In all honesty (as much bias aside as possible) are these good cars? it will get me point A to point B and if i don't abuse it, it won't abuse my wallet? the check engine light won't be on every 2 weeks? every second trip isn't to the mechanic?

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

Is an FD a good car? Well, in all honestly, my opinion is no. How reliable the car is will ultimately depend on the quality of the work done, because in stock form, they failed all the time in many different ways. People will argue with me over this, of course. But in the FD world, turbos dying after 50K, engines blowing before 100K and early failures of the sequential turbo system are normal. I think if you are looking for a reliable daily driver, then an FD isn't your best choice unless you are first willing to fix the weak points with the car. This means overhauling the cooling system, replacing the engine bay plastic, updating the turbo control system with new lines/solenoids, adding a boost gauge (can you believe they didn't have one from the factory?!), making sure the car is running near stock boost, etc.

It is curious how there are no engine bay pictures in that ad.

The FD kind of broke rotary reliability in North America. 1st and 2nd gens run forever.

Mitchocalypse

iTrader: (2)

there was an add of exact same car up abbt a year ago wit engine shots. Looked like any other 13B.

zoomy942

iTrader: (2)

look at sig for miles