I just bought this car few weeks ago and its my first rotary. I am currently having starting problems. If the car has been sitting over night or all day it starts right up first try and will idle. When I drive it around the block and get it up to temp, it doesnt want to idle and if I let it shut off it just cranks and cranks. Long as i keep it running it seems to run amazingly, i havent taken it past 3000 rpm as it is still in the break-in period. I replaced the spark plugs, the fuel filter, and one of the blasters, due to a broken post. Listed below are all of the modifications that I was told have been done. Rebuild has roughly 50 miles on it. Any help would be appreciated greatly.


New Atkins Rotary 3mm apex seals, 3mm solid corner seal set, 3mm short apex seal spring set, Water Jacket Seals, Viton O-Rings (Rotor O-Rings), Dowel Pin O-Rings,
Rear Stationary Gear, Front Cover O-Ring, Injector Diffusers, Front Hub Bolt O-Ring, Front Main Seal, Rear Main Seal, Street ported, Exedy stage 2 clutch. New ecu,
fuel rail, pulsation dampener, fuel injector relay, fuel pump relay, 660 primary injectors, Turbo air control valve block off plate, 2 MSD Blaster 2 coils for the trailing spark plugs, removed all emisions and a/c componets.

 

Low compression could be a cause, which can occur in a newly rebuilt engine before it starts to rebuild compression. If this is not the cause then leaky injectors could be at fault. Outside of replacing the injectors a fuel cut switch would help some. Also, these cars can flood very easy if the engine is briefly run then turned off. You also might want to check the Water Thermosensor which helps to determine the fuel required on startup. Too much fuel in a warm engine could be contributing to your starting problem. Pin 2I of the ECU, Green/White wire, should read 2 to 3 volts on a cold engine w/key to on and .4 volts fully warmed. Some also will place a cutoff switch inline with the wire leading to pin 3B which is the Starter Switch. This pin tells the ECU that the engine is being started and then lets the ECU decide which fuel map to use. By preventing the ECU from seeing this signal causes the ECU to default to a much smaller amount of fuel to be used than normally otherwise. Doing this works in warm weather but not in really cold whether so the switch would have to be set to allow the ECU to see the proper signal in cold temperatures.

 

Well damn, now the guy told me it has the pedal to the floor start up fuel cut function. I don't know technical name. If its true, that doesn't work either, it trys but still not enough to fire up.

 

The deflood procedure you speak of is for S5's and not S4's which you happen to have. If the ECU is stock then you do not have this feature.

 

He said "upgraded ecu" I'm not sure what all that entails but I will be checking out everything I can, and posting anything I find out

 

So here's pic of the engine, I pulled the intercooler off checking stuff out.



What is this do and how bad is it that its not hooked up?

 

So purple top injectors, supposed to be 660's. And the ecu, I'm guessing its stock but unsure of if its original to the car.

 

look for an rtek or some other sticker besides that factory sticker. could be a "chipped ecu"

 

The disconnected rod is for the OMP. If you premix then you don't need it connected but if you don't premix then you need it connected as it tells the OMP when to add oil to the engine housing.

 

That sounds like low compression, which may or may not get better with time. Who built the engine, and who cut the rotors to accept the 3mm seals?

Also, the problem may be in the naming of the engine, and it is just lashing back at you. "The Grinch" would be green, red, and white. Given that it is green and black with purple injectors, it may prefer to be called "The Hulk".

Yes, look for "Rtek", "Redom", or similar markings or stickers.

 

I bought it that way haha the hulk! I in the process if getting all the receipts for the work done from the guy I bought it from.

 

Fuel tank full of rust is a major problem right now. Anyone know what fuel cell fit in stock tank location nicely? Only found one new tank and $550 is bit more than a cell.

 

Just look for a clean used one

 

nice!

 

I'm thinking all new fuel system. Tank, pump, lines, filter.