There seems to be some debate on themerits of adding two stroke oil to the fuel at every fill up. If the OMP is right, then it *shouldn't* be needed. On the other hand it's pretty cheap insurance too.

What's the going thought on the 13B? Add oil to fuel, or count on the OMP and check the oil frequently?

 

 

Cool...kinda makes sense. How much oil do you premix in per tank? And which oil are you using AE?

 

half ounce per gallon so 8-9 oz per tank. I don't worry too much about getting it perfect just close. I'm using idemitsu.

 

Opinions will vary but I also pre-mix at about half rate (.5 oz. @ gallon) with a working OMP (FD) just using over-the-counter 2 cycle oil. Not certain over time of the effect on the stock cats if you have them, and on an NA you probably run some risk of increased carbon build up, which can be an issue on a rotary. OTOH, if you have an engine with many miles on it, starting premix now might slightly help dynamic compression but it isn't going to reverse housing or seal wear. And of course owners who have to deal with emissions testing probably wouldn't want to do it.

 

No emissions testing where I am, and the engine has 36k miles on it. It feels right when warmed up and running, so a little prevention will help keep it that way hopefully!

So far, no nasty surprises discovered in the powertrain. The wiper switch is SNAFUed, but that's pretty common and can be fixed. Working on the trunk struts now.

Snowing like crazy now, so it will stay tucked away until spring. Plenty of time to get it right in the shop right now.

 

 

I've removed and plugged my OMP and premix with royal purple 2 stroke oil. Its all personal preference, i wanted to delete systems in place to avoid consequences of failure etc. the only down side is having to keep oil with you at all times.

 

Gotcha! Does the OMP serve any other function? I was thinking about removing the smog / air pump, but then some helpful forum members mentioned that it also provides the air to actuate the aux port....

 

It will be better to consult with a rotary mechanic / engine builder and compare info obtained here and from them just to be safe. I don't have to pass emission tests so i don't have a cat and removed the air pump (primarily for emissions). Once you start modifying you maybe faced with certain consequences and then you will just have to deal with that issue. ie for higher EGT's you may choose to swap to E85.

Read through build threads and try and learn from people's mistakes

 

 

If it's a series 5 FC ('89 - '91), the OMP is electronic and managed by the ECU, so electrically disconnecting it results in "limp home" mode, just like an FD.

 

use only one good oil 2 stroke to avoid residues black on the rotors...

 

I have a 88 that is running the water pump and alternator. Everything else is gone, and was removed before I purchased the car. When I was putting the car back together, I removed the OMP and all the hardware that goes along with it. It was one of the first things I did. I just have to premix ever time I put gas into the car. You will get some funny looks from people at the gas station. I don't have to deal with emissions and I also have a free flowing exhaust. One reason for removing the OMP is that the lines can become brittle over time, and could fail. Another reason is that the OMP's usually only pump oil in a smaller area and don't usually cover the entire rotor surface. The lines can also clog easily.

I have been using just over the counter premix, now that the car is up and running I have chosen to use Stihl high performance 2-cycle engine oil. I sure there are some higher quality 2-cycle engine oils out there. I don't drive the car that often so grabbing a bottle of premix before I head to the gas station is not that big of a deal. I usually only buy about 5-10 gallons at a time. Like I said I don't drive it a lot. Buying bulk engine oil is cheaper than buying the little bottles. I also like to mix at a 50:1 ratio.

It's really just a personal choice. If you keep the OMP keep an eye on the lines.

 

Look for TC-W3 labelling on the bottle -- I don't remember the scientific reason (cleaner burning?) but before I switched to premix I researched and found many articles recommending it for our engines. I usually get Valvoline or Peak brands which are very affordable. I have a free-flow exhaust (no cats) so no worry of gumming them up. The reason I switched was so that I get pure pre-mix instead of dirty engine oil. Now my motor oil level stays put and I know my rotors are getting lubed. I hope to convert the OMP to draw from a separate jug under the hood, which would be easier and simpler at fill-ups.... just haven't done it yet. I believe the early systems on 12a's worked pretty well, but on the 13b's some years are better than others, because they varied the amount of oil to meet emissions year by year.

Besides, pouring the oil in at the pump is a great conversation starter! Then I show them the choke **** and they laugh and laugh, while wishing they had one! I got some 12oz P.E.T. plastic bottles off ebay and fill a bunch up with a gallon jug of oil, and keep one or two in the back with a funnel and rags. I use 1oz per gallon since it's my only source. It is a PITA, but I sleep better.

 

I just see some infos over different brand of 2 stroke oil and the motul 800 is the one whith the higher flash point. It's not cheap but I think it can burn very good and keep clean the internal. Any one use it?

Here the is a list of different flash point of many brands.
https://thumpertalk.com/forums/topic...sh-point-info/

 

been pre-mixing since the 80s valvoline or castro .....pumping regular oil is ok ..(i won't do it )..but it will leave carbon on the face of the rotor...as long as it is TCW 3... OF COURSE OTHER COMPANIES ARE GOING TO SAY OURS IS TH E THE BEST .... save yourself money and buy the cheap stuff it works fine

 

I personally just buy a gallon of TCW3 from wally world their brand, its cheap, and usually lasts me a whole summer

 

I've been using Klotz in my motorcycle for years with 0 issues. A guy on the Ducati forum recommended it and I haven't looked back.

Klotz Synthetic Lubricants

 

premix also helps the car to shoot more flames!