RotorRon

Alright. I have quite a few questions, If anyone could answer a few of them I would be VERY greatful.

Reading the FAQ and other posts i think i have an s5 engine, but im not 100% sure. I think it may have some s4 parts on it, but again, im unsure. If i were to take picture and upload them here could someone help? Or maybe clarify how i could tell?

My car is a swap car that i bought in progress, 88 NA base model with what i believe to be a 90 turbo2 motor.

From what i got with the car, i have multiple ecu's. Which one should i be using? I have N327, N332, N340, and some N370 ecu that is aparently tuned by Pan-speed. It is said to be chipped for higher boost, and to run at higher rpms.

Is there any way to tell if the drivetrain has been swapped out at all? I highly doubt it, but it'd be nice to know. Thanks. (:

RotorRon

Bump.

Any takers?

7dust

iTrader: (14)

Reading the FAQ and other posts i think i have an s5 engine, but im not 100% sure. I think it may have some s4 parts on it, but again, im unsure. If i were to take picture and upload them here could someone help? Or maybe clarify how i could tell?

Assuming you have a stock motor that has not been rebuilt an S4 / S5 mutt - then some of the quickest visual ways to tell are if you have a plastic water neck (S5) or metal one (S4). If the OMP is still in place - see if it is electronic - has a wiring harness to it (S5) or mechanical (S4). If you're running the electronics specific to your car's series and it hasn't been altered - then take a peek at the AFM. The S4 looks square-ish and the S5 looks more like a cylinder. Heck - post a picture of what you have.

My car is a swap car that i bought in progress, 88 NA base model with what i believe to be a 90 turbo2 motor.

From what i got with the car, i have multiple ecu's. Which one should i be using? I have N327, N332, N340, and some N370 ecu that is aparently tuned by Pan-speed. It is said to be chipped for higher boost, and to run at higher rpms.

N327 is S4 NA.

N332 is S4 Turbo

N340 is S4 Jspec

N370 is S5 Turbo but if ECU is modified for something other than what you are running then it will probably run like dog ****.

Is there any way to tell if the drivetrain has been swapped out at all? I highly doubt it, but it'd be nice to know. Thanks. (:

You have to get under the car and take a lookie see.

Here are some good pictures. Yes, the S4 and S5 Turbo drivetrain components look different somewhat:

http://www.16paws.com/rx7/index.html

Oh yeah - search mang. Seriously.

RotorRon

Okay, now I don't understand this whole impedance thing, if someone could clarify this also.

I have brown injectors, what impedance are those?

I'm using an 86 n/a harness. Does my harness put out the right resistance? or does the harness not matter? is it just the signal my ecu sends? Thanks.

dwb87

iTrader: (22)

If your harness is S4 N/A, the engine is S5 13BT, but uses everything that the S4 uses to function... Use the N332 ECU.

If the above is true, you probably have low impedance fuel injectors. Are you sure your fuel injectors aren't tan instead of brown?


If you have low impedance fuel injectors you probably have one of these in your engine bay...
It is the solenoid resistor pack. This allows your low impedance injectors to function properly.

RotorRon

I was worried you'd say that. unfortunately i don't. Is there any way i could re wire my car to not use that? or would i just need to buy one?

oh, and yeah. they're tan. brown/tan. same thing in my head. sorry.

RotorRon

Okay, im getting everything turned around in my head.

If i have the tan injectors, does that mean i don't need the resistor pack? Are the tan injectors high impedance?

I think all i need to do is cut off the low impedance plugs on the harness and replace them with high impedance plugs. Should the injectors work properly then?

dwb87

iTrader: (22)

Did the previous owner give you ANY information as to how he ran the car?


The information below is from the 2nd Generation FAQ's.

Year Engine Plug Size Colour Part #
84-85 13B NA, low square center, 680cc, orange, 195500-0900
86-87 13B NA, low square center, 460cc, red, 195500-1350
86-87 13B Turbo, low square center, 550cc, tan, 195500-1370
88 13B NA, high square offset, 460cc, purple, 195500-1350
88 13B Turbo, high square offset, 550cc, purple, 195500-1370
89-91 13B NA, high oval center, 460cc, red, 195500-2010
89-91 13B Turbo, high oval center, 550cc, purple, 195500-2020


If you have tan fuel injectors... Then you need the resistor pack. Are you sure they're not purple? Perhaps they're too dirty to tell??

RotorRon

just ignore this.

RotorRon

okay, i think i got this now.

dwb87

iTrader: (22)

Even if the engine is a series five engine, it is basically working as a series four. From the pictures, the engine screams S4. The injectors *look* tan, but it is always harder to tell in pictures as opposed to viewing them in person.

I'm guessing you'll be premixing?


P.S. - Check the pulsation dampener on the primary fuel rail. Be sure the screw on the end, under the piece of plastic, has not backed itself out. This has been the cause of MANY engine fires.

RotorRon

I was told to premix, but i don't really understand it completely. I'm pretty sure it has a ton of these so called "blockoff plates". Where is the oil injection system located exactly? and how does it work?

and that screw was completely out, laying in the plastic cover. thanks for that. (:

dwb87

iTrader: (22)

This is a pretty insightful premix thread. -> https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...ight=Premixing

From what I've read...
- Use TCW-3 two stroke oil. (Synthetic two stroke costs more.)
- Anywhere from 0.5oz to 1oz oil, per gallon of gas.
- Add the oil first. Then pump gas.


Metering Oil System:

RotorRon

Thanks for that. i'm still not 100% on it, but it seems reasonable.

I've also just found out that my fuel pump has failed.

I plan on eventually building my car up, so should i go with a walbro 255? It seems like the easy and inexpensive way to go.

dwb87

iTrader: (22)

IF you choose to use a Walbro 255 lph fuel pump, be sure you order one through a reputable vendor. (There are fakes out there.) - Also, since you're running stock fuel injectors and stock fuel pressure... You'll need an adjustable fuel pressure regulator.

Your best bet would be to find someone with a working/used stock TII fuel pump for sale.

RotorRon

Okay, i'm back now with some more questions. The good news- my car runs now. Bad news- it runs terribly. but thats besides the point.

On my EM harness Theres a ton of plugs that don't really go to anything. I'm thinking that this is because my car has NO emission related pieces left of it. Theres blockoff plates all over the place. Are there any plugs that are neccesary? Could you describe what they look like, what they do, and where they might be? Thanks again. (:

Lmill86

iTrader: (10)

I know a few people in lombard. Are you still located there, possiblt help on the way!

RotorRon

Yep, lived in lombard all my life. (:

RotorRon

I'm not sure if i should make a new thread or just keep asking questions in this one, but...

On my car, the o2 sensor is cut and theres is some basic connector on the sensor side. I was wondering if someone could take a picture of their clip so i could match it up?

dwb87

iTrader: (22)

This is what the S4 O2 connector looks like...




This is what the S5 O2 connector looks like...

RotorRon

Okay, i have an s4 harness. But the only plug that looks remotely close to that is plugged into something on my block. Knock sensor maybe? but the plug isnt green, its kindof clear. Is that correct or should it be on the o2 sensor, and that plug is for something else?

dwb87

iTrader: (22)

Yes, the knock sensor uses the same style plug as the S4 O2 sensor. And yes, the O2 sensor plug on the wiring harness side is kind of clear-ish/ white-ish/ tan. The O2 sensor pin at the ECU is 2D.

The O2 sensor plug can be whatever color that the O2 sensor manufacturer chooses.

RotorRon

Alright, im thinking i need to run my own wire for it, or maybe take apart my harness to find the wire.(thinking that it is cut) Reading wire diagrams It says that the color of the wire should be grey, or i think green with a yellow tracer?

The wire that i have plugged into the knock sensor looks to be grey, that was thencut and ran into a black wire.

Would that be the correct knock sensor wire? or could that be the o2 sensor, and i'm then missing a knock sensor?

turboeunos

Buncha good info here. good luck on the swap.

RotorRon

Alright, got my car running. It idles at like 1600 or so and my oil pressure gauge doesn't work, nor does my coolant temp. (although i didn't let the motor get very hot due to me getting afraid of them not working)

Could i have some help on where the sensors are? Thanks. (: