Galixi

I recently bought a 1982 Mazda XR7. I was cruising town when I geared down to turn around. As I down shifted the engine died. I shifted to 2nd gear and popped the clutch to try and pop start it. The engine sputtered and then a small back fire. I took the car home and checked for fuel flow (there was plenty). I then used a timing light to check for spark at all wires (spark was optimal). The car will not fire, just sputter. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you: Ben

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

question.
How did you get it home?.

You need to compression test the engine.( If it's what I think it is,you are not going to be happy).

Galixi

I pulled it back with my Van. While taking it back I tryed pop starting it again. It did start and run but seemed like it was missing, and when I tryed to go under its own power it died again (seemed like very low power).
Going to check the compression now... I don't like being not happy... I just got the thing... Did not even get it inspected yet... Grrrr
Thank you for your reply.

diabolical1

iTrader: (3)

welcome to the board.

1. go ahead and compression test it. this will be key information.
2. is the car generally stock, or is it modified in any way? i am particularly interested in carburetor, fuel pump and exhaust.

Galixi

O...K.... I think I am about to be upset.. The compression is not the same on any plug hole. This is what I came up with. L1 12psi/T1 45psi/L2 64psi/ T2 110psi..
There has been a lot of modifications. This is the story of the car. An elderly gentleman from the Lincoln Neb. area had the car from new and decided he was going to make a track car/street car out of it. Continued to next post---->

Galixi

He had rebuilt the engine and deleted all power robbing accessories. The only accessory is the alternator. He striped any weight not needed. He then added a nice little stereo system (Alpine head unit, CD changer, Alpine amp, peerless 8” subwoofer in custom enclosure, 5” woofers in door, 1” vifa aluminum dome tweeters in door).
The power add-on’s are Ronal wheels- 15x7, Racing Beat spark plug wires, Racing Peat full exhaust (headers, pre silencer, and free flow muffler), Racing Beat street/strip clutch, Racing Beat light weight steel flywheel, Racing Beat front anti roll bar (1 1/8” with urethane bushings), Racing Beat fully adjustable rear anti roll bar with urethane bushings, Tokico gas shocks.

Galixi

Just shortly after the gentlemen finished all of the work he passed away. The car then sat in his garage for 10 years while his wife looked at it on blocks. She then decided it was time for it to go and contacted the man who sold them the car originally and he bought it back. He tuned it up and set it back on the car lot. Now I have bought it and was extremely pleased with the performance. I drove it the 2 hours back to my home and a few trips around town and now this.

diabolical1

iTrader: (3)

https://www.rx7club.com/general-rota...-test-1031075/ [Video Inside]. i linked that just because it was the simplest way to verify you did the tests correctly.

as long as all is well with your methods, it looks like your front rotor is dead.

Galixi

I did not remove the Schrader Valve from my tester while testing the compression, but I do not feel that I am going to any better information by removing it.
Thank you for your insight.
I have not rebuilt one of these before, but there is a first time for everything!!!
Does any body have a 12A rebuild kit laying around that they don’t need any more?
Any tips about rebuilding one?

Mjedi

U can start with Atkins Atkins Rotary - Rx7 | Rx8 | Mazda | Rotary | Engine | Parts they sell kits.

Galixi

Thank you misterstyx69,diabolical1, and Mjedi for all your help and informatin. Looks like I am going to get dirty. I will post pictures when I am done.

Galixi

Another quick question. Can anybody give me a idea of what kit to get? Atkins has 5 diferent kits and I don't know what most of the stuff is that I will need. There is a A. B. C. Master, and a Rotor kit. Usualy a master kit is what I would go with, but the C. kit has things that are not in the Master and vice versa. Also the C. kit shows a part that I do not think applies to my engine. Thank you again for any advice!!!

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

don't get anything until you access the damage.
That means get dirty before you spend money...you'll thank me for that later!