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Old 12-14-10, 07:11 PM
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NV Starting issues

Hey all, Noob here I just picked up a 1984 GSL I have fuel and spark, The motor turns over but wont start, what should I check for first? second? Like I said I am new to the rotary world.......Thanks
Old 12-15-10, 10:11 PM
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I'm also having a similar problem and came here for help. I think it might a timing issue?
Old 12-15-10, 10:17 PM
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Do you have compression?
Old 12-15-10, 10:18 PM
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Low compression on a rotary will cause a no/hard start.. is it flooding out?
Old 12-16-10, 12:24 AM
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remember a carbed engine doesn't work like a fuel injected one does. it takes working the throttle a few time to squirt gas into the engine to get it started. just wanted to mention this as i know some ppl that's been around FI all their life may not know how to actually start a carbed engine. but as mentioned, make sure compression is good, getting fuel to and in the carb, and ignition is working properly.

necf: since u didn't mention which 7 u have i can only guess it too is a 1g. if not then ur problem could be different that what the OP has.
Old 12-16-10, 08:14 AM
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Mine is a 2nd gen. I've changed the spark plugs and checked out the fuel filter and tested the crank angle sensor. what else could I check? thanks
Old 12-16-10, 09:52 AM
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except for a few mods here that own them not many members with experience with the fc get to this section so u might want to check in the fc gen specific section. having no experience with the fc i can only suggest the usual that works with any engine to make it run. changing out the plugs is good cause it eliminates the question of if urs is fouled due to excessive flooding. if u don't already have one, i suggest downloading a copy of the fsm for ur specific model. u'll find a "sticky" thread i think at the top of the new member section. i don't know how to go about checking the CAS so i can only assume u did that right. did u just get the car? was it not running when u got it? what did the PO say bout it? next things to check is compression, new plugs wont do any good if there's no spark(coils not working), make sure fuel pump is working and getting to the injectors and they're not leaking causing flooding. u can use a regular compression tester, just remove the schrader valve so u can see the needle bounce from each rotor face. not sure what the lowest it can be and still start but i would say anything above 90 should be fine.
Old 12-16-10, 12:52 PM
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I have a 1st Gen, previous owner said all it needed was a fuel pump, That was untrue, all it really needed was fuel in the gas tank, pump works fine, I can hear it come on and it is pumping fuel into the carb, the idiot also had the plug wires hooked up wrong. It turns over like it wants to start, but won't, I guess I should check compression next? Are these engines that tempermental?
Old 12-16-10, 01:17 PM
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yes compression is in my opinion the first thing to do if it's bad you won't waste anymore time on it

There is a special compression tester for rotorys, there is atleast one in our group but a regular tester can be used if modified slightly to make sure you have three consistant pulses per rotor. Looks likes the guy may have been a goober so there is probably a few things wrong with it in his failed attempts to get it going. If it sat for a while the carb may need to be gone over.

Recently got my 15 yr a 85 GS and it would not run for crap last weekend I took the carb of of my 79 and damn GS ran like a freakin baby luckly one of the local guys had a carb he bascically gave me and now the car is running like a champ,

As far as tempermental? That is subject to opinion, my car is sitting outside work right now, just cause I like driving it so left the truck home today. It is always ready to go when I am. But I am sure they'll be those that disagree lol

I am sure we could have you running in a day, mind you my offer comes with no strings attached or compensation expected, it's just what we do

Go SCR!!! lol

Last edited by 13x; 12-16-10 at 01:19 PM. Reason: poor spelling lmao
Old 12-16-10, 03:18 PM
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I appreciate the offer 13X, I just might take you up on it. Are parts hard to find for these cars? I could rebuild the carb myself if they sell rebuild kits. I basically got the car for nothing, and I don't mind putting money into it, because my sugar momma wants it to be just like the one she had. I just want to hear this thing run!! Between all the other projects I have going on, I thought I was getting a hell of a deal, oh well.

Last edited by jtalar; 12-16-10 at 03:19 PM. Reason: misspelling
Old 12-16-10, 03:44 PM
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Originally Posted by jtalar
I appreciate the offer 13X, I just might take you up on it. Are parts hard to find for these cars? I could rebuild the carb myself if they sell rebuild kits. I basically got the car for nothing, and I don't mind putting money into it, because my sugar momma wants it to be just like the one she had. I just want to hear this thing run!! Between all the other projects I have going on, I thought I was getting a hell of a deal, oh well.
You probably still have, yes carb kits are available $2o something, once cpmpression test is done spray carb cleaner down throut of carb if it starts keep going for a moment pss pss psss if it stays running it's a fuel issues, if it doesn't then no spark the ignitors do go bad and they are not cheap unless someone has an extra used set. Of course this is assuming the timing is right, stabbing these dizzy are really easy so no big deal there

As far as parts many things are available aftermarket but we tend to hoard parts anyways lol and trade among each other

Oh got popped for sig pic being to big so changed my pic the white one in the garage is my better halfs

Last edited by 13x; 12-16-10 at 03:52 PM.
Old 12-19-10, 07:55 PM
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So i tried checking the compression, but I am not sure I have good compression, the needle on the gauge jumps up at first turn over and then continues to bump up but at a lower pressure. First bump appears to jump to 90 psi (I think) it is hard to tell it moves so fast, and then like 60, and then 30 and continues to diminish as it is cranked. Pulled all wires and hooked them to some used plugs, spark is there but I heard these cars have to have a really powerful spark to start. Not sure if my spark is intense enough. Will a 13b from 86 to 92 bolt right in?
Old 12-19-10, 10:37 PM
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if ur using a regular piston engine compression tester, it's best to remove the schrader valve. u don't want it holding the first pulse pressure. u want the needle to bounce up from 0 each time that way u see compression on all 3 rotor faces for each rotor.
Old 12-19-10, 11:39 PM
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Originally Posted by jtalar
So i tried checking the compression, but I am not sure I have good compression, the needle on the gauge jumps up at first turn over and then continues to bump up but at a lower pressure. First bump appears to jump to 90 psi (I think) it is hard to tell it moves so fast, and then like 60, and then 30 and continues to diminish as it is cranked. Pulled all wires and hooked them to some used plugs, spark is there but I heard these cars have to have a really powerful spark to start. Not sure if my spark is intense enough. Will a 13b from 86 to 92 bolt right in?
Yes the 13B can be made ot fit, now to get hollared, I frankly wouldn't do it I am not sure it is worth the efforts and $$$

Ok you need to hold the throttle wide open and make sure battery is fully charged it shouldn't be lossing compresion, pulse pulse pulse should be roughly the same psi 90 ish to start on both rotors the engine should start and run, the regular compression tester is not the ideal but more to give you an idea.

Check the fuel pump is coming on, it's in front of the left rear wheel under neath the car, while down there you may want to change the fuel filter

I am posting how to's on our local clubs forum I will be doing "setting the timing and stabbing the dizzy", I can bump it up the list if it will help

I also have bascially cutaways of a rotary to help understand the concepts if you'd like to see
Old 12-20-10, 07:56 PM
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Yes 13X I took the schrader valve out before testing, I don't think I have enough compression, Fuel pump works fine, I can hear it buzz when I turn the key, and it is pumping fuel into the carb, I tried spraying starting fluid into carb, nothing. I have no clue what stabbing a dizzy means. i can pick up a 13b for cheap, I was wondering if it bolts right in place ofa 12a. I plan on adding a turbo down the road, but I don't want to get ahead of myself, I need to get this running first.
Old 12-20-10, 10:14 PM
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they 13B is not a "drop" in, turbo?? thought this was for the ole lady?? lol

But was thottle wide open? this will allow the air in to compress

Has compression, sprayed starting fluid but no start then the spark and timing are suspect
Old 12-21-10, 12:26 AM
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Originally Posted by jtalar
I have no clue what stabbing a dizzy means.
it's what some ppl call it when reinstalling it after it's been removed.
Old 12-23-10, 11:27 PM
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Thanks guys, I will pull the distributor and re-install, then set the timing. I am going to by all new distributor cap and wires, anyone know where I can buy the cables from the Ignitors to the dizzy? actually an all around good website that sells almost all 84 GSL parts would be great, I have A few interior items I need to replace. It is for the sugar momma and she thinks she might want a Turbo eventually hehehehehehehehehehehe. (that's When i steal it).
Old 12-24-10, 10:29 AM
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The wires sound like the coil wires they would come with the ignition wire set, OE style is stocked by your local CARQUEST stores (I have some influence there lol) if for some reason no good there try Meyers Auto Parts if that stikes out the local retail stores would be my next bet

I have a "good" dizzy if you find the need to drop one in to avoid buying crap you don't need.

bits and piece parts, there are alot of vendors, what kind of items do you need? If I have laying around the garage your more then welcome to them as I porbably don't have anything into them and don't expect anything back out .... oh what color is the interior?
Old 12-24-10, 02:04 PM
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Interior is Burgundy, I am trying to find the dash plate for the center console, (the plate that goes around the stereo), also a center console or someone that can rebuild mine. A good upohlstery shop would be great. Also ***** for the A/C control, I will probably pull the dizzy today or tomorrow and see if it is installed correctly. Is there a good write up on installing the distributor and getting the timing right?
Old 12-24-10, 03:32 PM
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Originally Posted by jtalar
Interior is Burgundy, I am trying to find the dash plate for the center console, (the plate that goes around the stereo), also a center console or someone that can rebuild mine. A good upohlstery shop would be great. Also ***** for the A/C control, I will probably pull the dizzy today or tomorrow and see if it is installed correctly. Is there a good write up on installing the distributor and getting the timing right?
It's easy peasy I'll post a quick video later today
Old 12-26-10, 04:46 PM
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So, when timing, how many grooves are on the pulley and which groove do I set the distributor to? Should the pointer on the rotor be facing fwd aft sideways?????
Old 12-26-10, 05:00 PM
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set the front rotor to tdc and line up the dot on the gear with the pointer on the dizzy.
Old 12-26-10, 05:07 PM
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And how do I set the front rotor to tdc? dot on what gear? pointer on the rotor?
Old 12-27-10, 02:55 PM
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dizzy restabbed and is good, tightened up intake manni and carb while also checking for any obvious vaccuum leaks, car had fuel delivery and spark at the plugs but upon double checking the cpmpression 1 strong pulse 2 weak same on both rotors. Have advised the ATF in combustion chambers to assure the apex seals are not stuck prior to condemming engine


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