cab91089

iTrader: (3)

I have an 86 FC that I just bought not too long ago. When I bought the car it started up and would shut off after a few seconds but would stay running if i kept on the gas. Recently it stopped starting completely and it has something to do with the starter. I took out the starter and had it checked at Autozone and it was working okay. I tested the wires running to the starter and at the battery and there was power at both ends. When I turned the ignition switch you could tell there was power getting to it but the starter motor wouldnt turn. I also checked all of the fuses and they are fine. I have the Haynes manual and so far Ive tried about everything and Im starting to lose options on what it can be. Someone please help me!!! I want to get the car to at least start so I can do a compression test.

RotaryRocket88

iTrader: (7)

Read this thread: https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/ive-solves-2nd-gen-sticky-starter-mystery-896013/. Post 39 has my diagram for adding a relay to the stock setup, which allows power for the starter solenoid to come directly from the battery & over new wire. This is to fix the classic "click-no-start" problem.

Go48

iTrader: (7)

Check the voltage across the battery terminals. If it is less than about 12.5 VDC, your battery needs to be charged or there is a bad cell. If the reading is 12.5 or above, check and clean all the grounds. If the battery continues to die, replace it and/or check the alternator.

cab91089

iTrader: (3)

when i try to start the car the battery gauge says its around 12 to 14, it varies sometimes. when i checked them with just a wire tester there was power at the battery terminals. a friend of my step dad is bringing a voltometer to check out everything. he got the starter motor to spin but then when we tried to start the car it wouldnt. the motor spun too when i got it checked at autozone, twice. i also let my battery charge for awhile and came back and tried to start it with no luck. im going to check it out later tonight but thanks for the help so far!

rxtasy3

iTrader: (2)

u'll need help to do it but check the small wire that goes to the spade connector on the solenoid on the starter with a volt meter. should have +12v on it when the switch is turned to the start position. make sure both bat terminals r clean and tight and the ground wire from the bat has a good clean ground at the tranny/starter mounting bolt.

Go48

iTrader: (7)

Is there an echo in this section?

cab91089

iTrader: (3)

i started cleaning some grounds last night. so far i cleaned all the grounds on the starter and solenoid, the ground near the starter relay, and the ground to the main fuse on the main fuse box. also checked the batt. gauge and it reads about 10 without the car started (since it wont start lol). im going to charge the battery for awhile today and see if it holds the charge. if not im going to look into the alternator. i also have cleaned all the battery termnials with a wire brush and tightened them up. the guy i mention is supposed to come today so ill post up the results with the voltometer. im also going to try rotaryrockets idea because it seems alot of people had success with it. the only problem is im not the best at wiring. i was also thinking, my 7 had a really old alarm system in it and i took it out the second day i had it home. when i took it out i cut a small orange wire running into the firewall, could that possibly have had something to do with the starter? thanks for all the help!

RotaryRocket88

iTrader: (7)

Just an FYI, most of what you just listed off are not grounds. The starter and starter solenoid ground through the starter body. The wires on the starter all carry 12V power. And the main fuse (as with all fuses) is only power in, power out. There is no ground there.

Does you car have, or did it have the stock alarm system? And was what you took out aftermarket? The fix in the thread I linked to is primarily for cars with the stock alarm system. The relay that gets tapped into is used to cut starter power if the alarm goes off. If your car did not have a stock alarm, there will be a little jumper plug there instead. If that's the case, HOZZMANRX7's original design in post #1 is more suitable.

cab91089

iTrader: (3)

lol, didnt know if they were grounds or not but thanks for clearing that up and im pretty sure it was an aftermarket alarm system from the 80's, its a chapman alarm system. i just realized also that there is no starter cut relay on my car.

cab91089

iTrader: (3)

rotaryrocket, will any automobile relay work to rewire a new relay in? does it matter how many pins or what volt it has or can hold? also do i have to bypass the interlock and/or clutch safety swtich first for everything to work?

RotaryRocket88

iTrader: (7)

You can use a generic 30A 4-pin automotive relay. Radioshack or some parts stores will sell them. And you don't need to do anything with the clutch switch.

cab91089

iTrader: (3)

ok thanks. i tried connecting a wire from the white/black wire spot on the elec plug where the blue connector used to be to the battery and i couldnt get the starter motor to spin. im not sure why ...

cab91089

iTrader: (3)

i also dont have a clicking noise just a humming sound coming from the starter. i tried pumping the clutch to see if i could get it to engage with the flywheel but it didnt work. do you think the new relay would still fix the problem?

RotaryRocket88

iTrader: (7)

The B/W wire leads directly to the starter solenoid. If you applied 12V power to it, the starter should definitely spin. If it didn't, you should double check the connection at the solenoid. There would have to be a lack of continuity between the two points for that to happen.

cab91089

iTrader: (3)

ill double check but im almost 100 percent positive that its tight. i cleaned the ring terminals and the areas around it with sandpaper ... im thinking that maybe i connected the wires wrong on the starter/solenoid when i put them back on. im going to check it out alittle later.

cab91089

iTrader: (3)

So I checked the wires and they were put on wrong, I feel like such an idiot. I cant believe I didnt notice that... but a new problem has come up. When I was tightening the bolts to put the starter back on the lower bolt that sticks out of the transmission broke. Does this mean I have to replace the entire transmission just for that bolt or is there a way to put a new one in there? Im pretty upset about it. I was happy to get the car started but now I have to deal with this and Im thinking it might get expensive if I have to replace the transmission over a stupid mistake on my part. Someone tell me what I have to do!!?? THANKS

Go48

iTrader: (7)

The starter bolts attach the unit to the bell housing, not the transmission. The bell housing is an interface between the engine and transmission where the clutch and flywheel reside. You will need to have someone who knows what they are doing remove the broken piece of the bolt. If you are lucky, they can remove the piece without dropping the transmission. If you are not lucky, the transmission will have to be dropped and then the piece removed.

Unsolicited advice: The shop manual has torque settings for bolt. Use a torque wrench to tighten bolts and you should not run into this problem in the future.

cab91089

iTrader: (3)

Please excuse me for being an idiot. I knew very well that the bolt that ran into the bellhousing was not actually mounted into it considering Im the one who screwed the bolt into it just 10 minutes before hand. Im just going to use a pair of locking pliers to get the bolt out, I dont think Ill have to drop the transmission since I still have about a half an inch of bolt to work with. Again Im sorry for being an idiot, someone close this thread. Thanks for the help!