Spark Plugs
#1
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Spark Plugs
Well changed my plugs for the first time ever.... ( i never done them on any of my other cars ) and it was an experiance. Well i finished and took it for a drive. Then I started to hear a tickin... I thought I moved a wire were it was hitting a belt or something. NOPE get home and its was my T1 plug just hanging there... I guess I didnt push it in all the way. Checked the other plugs for snuggness and carried on.
So here is my prob/question
Should my old plugs look like this?
and question 2
My car is now idling... a little rough. I know the guy messed with the af ratio and timing ... could new plugs make it do this? As in... the old af ratio was good for the old plugs but not new plugs.
So here is my prob/question
Should my old plugs look like this?
and question 2
My car is now idling... a little rough. I know the guy messed with the af ratio and timing ... could new plugs make it do this? As in... the old af ratio was good for the old plugs but not new plugs.
#2
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Tan color is normal, since most driving is done around a stoichometric air/fuel ratio. You can also see a good bit of rounding on all of the electrodes, which will happen with age. New plugs would make it idle better. Isn't this an S5 car? If so, there is no adjustment for idle air/fuel ratio. S4s have the variable resistor, but S5s just have some auto adjustment by the ECU.
If someone played with the CAS, it should be set back to normal. In general, rough idle can be vacuum leak, TPS, CAS, or old spark plug related. On S4s it can be variable resistor related.
If someone played with the CAS, it should be set back to normal. In general, rough idle can be vacuum leak, TPS, CAS, or old spark plug related. On S4s it can be variable resistor related.
#4
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NGK 7s leading and NGK 9s trailing are the stock plugs on 2nd gen 13b engines. It looks like 1st gen GSL-SEs used NGK 8s all around, and REPUs ran who knows what. I'd say so long as you don't have starting, fouling or detonation problems, your plug choice is fine. http://www.mazdatrix.com/ign-2.htm
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maybe it is just me,But I would go ahaed and change out the plug wires too.
The Second plug looks like it had a little "spark over",and was grounding out...so it was not really connected firmly.
Getting new wires will assure you of good spark and make your Coils,plugs,engine,etc very happy.
Also,a bit of anti-seize on the thread will not inhibit any spark,so use it to prevent the plugs from getting Seized in the housing.
It has been known to happen,unfortunately,,as the housing and the plug are different metals.
The Second plug looks like it had a little "spark over",and was grounding out...so it was not really connected firmly.
Getting new wires will assure you of good spark and make your Coils,plugs,engine,etc very happy.
Also,a bit of anti-seize on the thread will not inhibit any spark,so use it to prevent the plugs from getting Seized in the housing.
It has been known to happen,unfortunately,,as the housing and the plug are different metals.
#12
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Here's my guess: When you were changing out the plugs, you bumped your distributor cap and now it is on crooked. This causes the rotor to hit on the contacts in the cap. Loud clacking or ticking noise, rough running, are typical symptoms of this. Don't feel bad either, happens very easily with these distributors.
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