Rebuild starts but doesn't stay running.
#1
Im 1.3 big, 10sec of fury
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Rebuild starts but doesn't stay running.
ok guys need your help use your almightly powers. i have a 89 gxl 6 port that i just got rebuilt but an awesome rotary guy. I threw the motor in the car and crack the lower intake like a retard so i replaced it with a intake in much better shape and cleaned it up really good. So today i pull started it and finally got it running got it to idle and drive. Now i start to drive it around and after around 10 to 15 minutes of driving it starts to stumble and eventually cut out. It would only do it when i hit the gas. It would idle awesome so now i have no clue whats up. Now i cant get it to start at all im pretty sure i flooded it but it late and i got a movie to watch but i really really really need some input i dont want to sell my baby and if i dont get this fixed i will be forced to so the powers that be please save my car lol.
#3
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i had my buddy write the post while i was getting ready to go to the movies and he is indeed a tard i dont have an 89 i have an 88 so is there a link for codes on that or is it completely different? thanks for all the help and i will be checking all the wires in the morning.
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ok i built the tester and hooked it up and got nothing so i used a multimeter and when i turn on the car i was only getting 6 volts for like 3 seconds then it would go down to .7 volts and just stay there there was no volt bouncing ( to count and find the error) just stayed there.. i have no idea except for maybe a bad ecu.
thought of somthing else that was weird as well when i was adjust my fuel (L-R) it felt like it was doing nothing . i took it to all lean and waited no change all rich waited no change could that be a problem? thank you so much
thought of somthing else that was weird as well when i was adjust my fuel (L-R) it felt like it was doing nothing . i took it to all lean and waited no change all rich waited no change could that be a problem? thank you so much
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#8
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i used the old housings but new gasket and seals and i got it running and timed i was sounding great and was doing ok then went to craps
tps yes vac leaks not that i know of ive checked over and over again and the car was drove into my garage (after realizing i dropped an apex) (when i pulled it apart it was all 6 of them were broke in half) so it drove it (running) into garage and rebuilt engine and had it back in within 5 five days
still not having any luck
new update new spark plugs now they spark but still same problem
tps yes vac leaks not that i know of ive checked over and over again and the car was drove into my garage (after realizing i dropped an apex) (when i pulled it apart it was all 6 of them were broke in half) so it drove it (running) into garage and rebuilt engine and had it back in within 5 five days
still not having any luck
new update new spark plugs now they spark but still same problem
#10
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ok this is going to sound absolutely ridiculous but here it goes on my 88 i thought i knew what the tps was but then i did a lil research and well umm at the risk of sounding retarded....i dont think i have one and i think i should for what i have read. i look on the fire wall side in the front every wire and the only switch type thing on the intake is a lil black box that a rod extends when you push the throttle and vise verse and its on the front...
officially lost,
P.rat
officially lost,
P.rat
#12
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Mitsubushi Electric makes a lot of parts used on Japanese cars. The alternator is one I can think of off the top of my head. There's a picture of an S4 TPS here: http://www.mazdatrix.com/86-92Electrical-Engine.htm.
The fact that the problem seems to only begin when the engine warms up suggest the water temp sensor may be the culprit. It's on the back of the water pump housing, and feeds the ECU temperature data that is used for fuel corrections.
The fact that the problem seems to only begin when the engine warms up suggest the water temp sensor may be the culprit. It's on the back of the water pump housing, and feeds the ECU temperature data that is used for fuel corrections.
#13
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well when i pullstart it and have to find the sweet spot on the gas pedal for it to start to try to fire alot of lil grumbles really and then when it does fire it either grumble and then dies or it runs like a champ and i get out pop the hood and it dies.
this is crazy though the other day when i got it running it seemed fine let it idle while i hooked up my subs and drove around for 20 mins and then it started hiccuping and now it wont even try to stay running or even really start for that matter
ill check the temp sensor tho
Last edited by P.Rat; 05-09-10 at 07:28 PM. Reason: more info typos
#15
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you might have something there..lol. but really im replacing the afm and tps today and try to pull start again and if no luck this time im pulling the intake off and hand checking all the wires as well as heat wrap the harness
#16
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ok i replaced the AFM and the fuel screw lean rich thing (sry dont remember what its called) as well as found two things that were not installed on my car one was this black disk right behind the oil filler neck has three lines to it as well as this other thing to the left of the pressure sensor next to the afm and turn it over and it fired up just with the starter ( first time it started just with the starter since rebuild) and reved nicly due to too much gas and prolly alil timing just wanted to update you guys that things are looking up thanks to all ur input
Mr Pratt
Mr Pratt
#17
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crap i pulled my ecu and here is what i found any ideas.... as well as i can just swap it right? i dont need to check anything or any other procedures that i dont know?
#18
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It looks like those resistors got a bit toasty. You can swap out the ECU with another one from an N326, N327 or even N338 ECU. There's an archived thread with all the ECU part numbers here: https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-gen-archive-72/ecu-part-numbers-applications-873382/#post9621203.
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