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Parts removal for turbo/vacuum replacement

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Old Oct 19, 2018 | 07:15 AM
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Parts removal for turbo/vacuum replacement

Hi all

Bought my car with no secondary boost. Took off UIM, replaced a few lines that looked crap and bunged it back together.
After I reassembled, I got a whooshing noise from the UIM elbow bit at around 2500rpm. I received secondary boost (i think) - at WOT in 3rd over 4500rpm, the boost fluctuates from 0.2 to 0.3 psi. SOMETIMES, if i let off and re-WOT, I will have no boost and sometimes it continues fluctuating the same.

I have now taken out the airbox and all associated pipes going back to the turbo manifold to check them. The one that goes to the ABV was cracked around where it connects on the side of the turbo manifold. This has been fixed. I am now at the point where I can remove the turbos tomorrow or I can put it back together. Obviously I don't want to remove any more stuff if there's no point.

Could I get some advice please.

Thank you
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Old Oct 19, 2018 | 08:22 AM
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What year car?
Does the cross-over tube...the tube that connects to the intercooler INLET bolt to the Y pipe or does it have a coupler?

Your description of a “whooshing” sound is usually a boost leak. And those are most often traced to a failed coupler...usually a stock rubber coupler. There is also a big thick ‘O’ ring on the rear (secondary) side of the Y pipe. Never had on fail but I could see it being a major boost leak if it did. Check the actuators for good function, but my feeling is there’s a need to go deeper than you have.
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Old Oct 19, 2018 | 08:51 AM
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Originally Posted by Sgtblue
What year car?
Does the cross-over tube...the tube that connects to the intercooler INLET bolt to the Y pipe or does it have a coupler?

Your description of a “whooshing” sound is usually a boost leak. And those are most often traced to a failed coupler...usually a stock rubber coupler. There is also a big thick ‘O’ ring on the rear (secondary) side of the Y pipe. Never had on fail but I could see it being a major boost leak if it did. Check the actuators for good function, but my feeling is there’s a need to go deeper than you have.
Sorry it's a 92 JDM. It has a plastic crossover and silicone coupler. The silicone coupler is in good shape and has clearly been replaced not so long ago. The only thing about it was it seemed almost too flexible to me, like it would collapse.

​​​
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Old Oct 19, 2018 | 08:53 AM
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Originally Posted by Sgtblue
What year car?
Does the cross-over tube...the tube that connects to the intercooler INLET bolt to the Y pipe or does it have a coupler?

Your description of a “whooshing” sound is usually a boost leak. And those are most often traced to a failed coupler...usually a stock rubber coupler. There is also a big thick ‘O’ ring on the rear (secondary) side of the Y pipe. Never had on fail but I could see it being a major boost leak if it did. Check the actuators for good function, but my feeling is there’s a need to go deeper than you have.
Sorry to multi post. I can currently see the actuators, and have tried moving the top one by hand (I can't reach the second as it's under the heat shield). It doesn't budge at all.
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Old Oct 19, 2018 | 09:00 AM
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You can probably test function with a mighty-vac or similar tool. And I’m pretty sure you can minipulate the arm on that from under the car to make sure it’s free.

I’d closely check all couplers. Sometimes a split or failure can behard to find unless you pull the coupler off. Just throwing suggestions...i know it can be frustrating.

Last edited by Sgtblue; Oct 19, 2018 at 09:06 AM.
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Old Oct 19, 2018 | 09:11 AM
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Thanks .Well so far in my mind I've I let found the one coupler, the one on the cross over. Seems good. It was more the cracks at the end of the pipe that goes to the ABV (cracked at the non ABV end that connects to the metal), and the whooshing.everything else seems in check right now.

These little rods... Should I be able to move them by hand? The top one literally doesnt move.
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