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Old 08-21-09, 09:04 AM
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it sounds like a 3800rpm hesitation.i was just going throught he same problem on mine.try checking all ur engine grounds cleaning them up and re-ataching them.that wasn't enough for me though.i had ran 4 new 12 guage grounds (the only spare wire i had lying around,10gauge works better if have it).after i ran the new grounds it cleared right up.i get about 18psi oil pressure at idle and at 3000-3500 its around 60 but as i climb up towards 4500-5000 it hits about 80psi or higher.just wanted to add that in.also u might want to check for intake leaks,sometimes they can form without u being able to hear them.that can cause u to hit a wall around 4k.double check ur secondary injectors.as ur rpms climb up to around 4k it cutts half the power from the primaries and adds it to the secondary injectors and by doing so if ur secondary injectors ain't working or just not working well then its going to b running lean and will also cause a 4k wall.don't just assume the engine needs to b rebuilt.i have a new oil pump on my car and thats the oil meterings i get.spend some time running a few tests and u could save urself some cash.let us kno how it turns out.



-rj
Old 08-21-09, 10:46 AM
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thanks for all that information i will try doing all that as soon as possible and would let you know how it runs out.. Thanks again
Old 08-22-09, 04:48 AM
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first off if the car runs perfectly fine until 4K then the motor is fine. Also your oil pressure is fine. If your turbo was bad and cause you to not be able to advance over 4k rpms it would be obvious the turbo wouldnt make a constant wirring or spooling noise it would sound like a dieing bird and it wouldnt of happened all of a sudden unless you dropped a solid object into the turbo fins. you could have a grounding issue your secondary injectors start injecting at 3800 rpms if your secondarys aren't turning on you would not have enough fuel for the car to go past 4k rpms on a boosted motor. Or your injectors might just be clogged and no good. And lastly it could possibly be a vacuum leak maybe a hose dry rotted somewhere maybe your wastegate hose rotted out and your hitting way to much boost causeing the car to cut out.
Old 08-22-09, 02:41 PM
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ok supposed i got the compressor of the motor... 1 was 90 i think and the other one was 60.. Hmmm....? He told me something in the motor is broken or something like that he mentioned the name but i forgot and that due to that the motor cannot support the turbo boost or somwthing like that....?
Old 08-23-09, 03:28 AM
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the rotor with 90 is ok the one with 60 is low. If i where you id do a rebuild to prevent further more serious damage to the motor. Hey may be talking about an apex seal.
Old 08-23-09, 05:47 AM
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oh ok thanks I will do that i guess.. Thanks for the information.. And after rebuild how much sbould each of them be when I do compressor test?.. Thanks
Old 08-23-09, 08:48 AM
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95 thru 105 psi.
Old 08-23-09, 11:12 AM
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I don't understand that psi thing.. how do you even check the ocmprassor? the people had something pluged into the sprak plug thing and just cranck the car pressing gas supposed but they plugged something out so that the car would not be able to fire up or something like that..
Old 09-02-09, 05:19 AM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by anthonywe
it drives perfect before it reaches 4 rpm. and when it gets to 4 rpm it start doing what it does so I do also think it is when the boost comes in. But the why would the exhaust make a difference now and before it did drive good? like even in the boost part? well I guess I will have to have the wires and all that checked since I don't even know where to find the wires. sorry I know very little about this. but thanks for all the advice and your time
You don't know where to find the wires for your car?!?! I think you need to do cash 4 clunkers and get you an 09 hyundai or something cause thats really bad. You would probably save yourself from a lot of stress if you just sold it.
Old 09-02-09, 11:16 AM
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Yeah I did save myself allot of stress. the rotary is not worth it I sold it and I'm putting a v8 in my rx7. all worries and problems and times are gone. thanks
Old 09-02-09, 11:04 PM
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you sold a 13b? was it turbo? What kind of v8 motor are you throwing in? man, thats savage. You must have a lot of money to just do that kind of thing. I'm sure a shop is doing that for you right.
Old 09-03-09, 05:20 PM
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I sold the block only it was a turbo but I still have the transmission the clutches the turbo the intercooler and all that. I'm putting an LT1 in it and I'm not rich I make about $1400 a month but I'm 20 and still live with my mom and dad. And it came out cheaper then rebuilding the rotary. Rebuilding the rotary would of cost me more then putting the v8 in it. and of course a shop is doing it for me not only that I don't know how to do it put I don't have the tools and I don't have the time. The shop will have it done in 2 weeks with my time It would not be done for this year.

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3346396

go to that link and you will see pictures of te car with the rotary. I know your now just going to hate me more after looking at the pictures but hey I did not want to pay like $3500 for a rebuild and that after a couple of months It would need a rebuild again. I personally would really love to keep the rotary and the sound maybe less power and tourqee or however you spell it but I wanted to bridgeport it and keep it. but money talks you know.
Old 09-03-09, 08:55 PM
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How much would it cost you to slap on that ls1? Mounting kit $500.00, LS1 $800.00, Tranny $300.00, Diff $100.00. Labor $500.00 and of course those price that I thrown out are not actual qnd pretty low than anything you could find. I was gonna go in that direction and have it done right $6000.00 for everything.
Old 09-03-09, 09:49 PM
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Originally Posted by anthonywe
I know your now just going to hate me more after looking at the pictures but hey I did not want to pay like $3500 for a rebuild and that after a couple of months It would need a rebuild again. I personally would really love to keep the rotary and the sound maybe less power and tourqee or however you spell it but I wanted to bridgeport it and keep it. but money talks you know.
Rotary's dont just die after a few months of being rebuilt, unless of course the monkey that rebuilt it didn't know what he was doing, or you blow it up.

The cost of going with a V8 is going to cost more than a rebuild. It isnt a straight swap, like "Pull 13b, drop in V8", or else a lot more people would have V8s, especially if they died every other month.
Old 09-04-09, 08:19 AM
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well for me it will be cheaper. It will maybe be a total cost of $1500. I bought a camaro for around 1428 but might sell the camaro body for $714. Also I will sell the parts of the rotary, the car will be automatic so don't need a new differential and I don't have to buy any support I just pay these people $857 and they will do everything, they already have an rx7 themself with a v8 in it that they kinda do drag race with it with stock suspension and differential.
These people put v8 engines in about any damn car. and yeah I don't think we have some one here that would be good enough to rebuild a rotary, and I don't know if I need new housing or rotor which would make it cost way more. As I have to order parts over the sea. so for me it will be cheaper to have it done. I personally would love to keep the rotary which is to late for but I don't feel like each 2 months have to service and check oil and must think how I drive it before I drive it as I don't want to blow another apex seal.
but I guess I will see how the v8 comes out when it's done
Old 09-04-09, 09:10 AM
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v8 has 80 moving internal parts that can break<rotary has 3 internal moving parts that can break. plus the v8 weighs over double the 13b...a turbo rotary is typicaly good for at least 180k unless the owner uses too thin of oil (mazda recommends 20w-50).think about it,the car is over 20years old and just now needs a rebuiild.if u rebuilt it,then it would b good for another 20years if not more.nevermind me though,i hate v8's and what they stand for. i gues if ur only planning on drag racing (wich rx7's were never designed for to begin with)then a v8 is ok i guess. theres a reason y all mazda commercials (from sports cars to suv's) r driving on mountain passes and/or winding roads......Zoom-Zoom

"Straight roads are for fast cars,corners are for fast drivers" -can't remember the name of the guy who stated that qoute.....if anyone kno's it would b great
Old 09-04-09, 09:24 AM
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well I'm not planning of going to drag race but just a daily drive, well you might be right about the rotary but I'm already to late to turn back to rebuild the rotary as I already bought the v8 and the rotary has already been pulled out and I have already payed the shop to do this for me. the thing is we don't really have people here that could work good on them. there are like 2 or 3 people which makes it boring to have one. and there are way more people here that can work on piston engines. so for me it is better in every way. but I'm planning of just making this rx7 v8 a good and nice car and in a year or 2 maybe buy another rx7 but with rotary and keep it rotary and also make that a top car. so then I have both as I love both allot. but I understand what you mean and might agree but here it is better for v8 as for people to work on them and also for the parts that cost less. but I do love the rotary allot the difference about it with the piston and the sound it makes I really love it and appreciate it but I guess the decision is made. who knows if I though about it longer I would have kept the rotary. but to late now.. thanks
Old 09-05-09, 06:02 PM
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Well, it sounds like you got a great deal on a v8 swap. I hope it turns out to be a good choice for you. I was not trying to convince you about keeping the rotary, its your car so do with it as you want. Just most of the talk from the guys that have done the swap, say it cost a lot. You are right about their being too few of people that know how to work on these engins. And if you live any distance from a major city, your basically screwed on finding someone that knows how to work on one and is good at it.

Originally Posted by anthonywe
I personally would love to keep the rotary which is to late for but I don't feel like each 2 months have to service and check oil and must think how I drive it before I drive it as I don't want to blow another apex seal.
I hope you check your oil more often than that. Piston engines usually burn a small amount of oil too.


Good luck, and let us know how the swap goes,
Jeff



Originally Posted by rx7freak13v
v8 has 80 moving internal parts that can break<rotary has 3 internal moving parts that can break. plus the v8 weighs over double the 13b...a turbo rotary is typicaly good for at least 80k unless the owner uses too thin of oil (mazda recommends 20w-50).think about it,the car is over 20years old and just now needs a rebuiild.if u rebuilt it,then it would b good for another 20years if not more.nevermind me though,i hate v8's and what they stand for. i gues if ur only planning on drag racing (wich rx7's were never designed for to begin with)then a v8 is ok i guess. theres a reason y all mazda commercials (from sports cars to suv's) r driving on mountain passes and/or winding roads......Zoom-Zoom

"Straight roads are for fast cars,corners are for fast drivers" -can't remember the name of the guy who stated that qoute.....if anyone kno's it would b great
... fixed.

Colin McRae said that quote.
Old 09-07-09, 09:45 AM
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Yes it sucks that there is not really some one that I'm sure that would do the work good and also I wish I had another car that I could use then I'm sure I would have kept the rotary and just take the time and just make it more then perfect. but I guess some day.

If you go to this link ( http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3346396 )
you can see pictures of the car in the first page when I bought it and second what is being done now, still more pictures to add to it though.

thanks
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