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I recently got a 93 rx7 stock setup with Street port. I finally got the check engine light to flash codes and I got 4 codes.
16
28
30
38
will driving with those codes damage my engine
You might want to recheck the codes, I don’t think there is a 16.
28 and 30 are emissions related...EGR and split air bypass valve respectively. No immediate harm to engine, but long-term it might dirty up a stock catalytic converter, and being in CA you probably won’t pass emissions.
38 is Accelerated Warm up (AWS). A lot of owners remove it anyway with a block-off plate. No harm, keeps it from wanting to rev high on cold start...which is actually a good thing. Pretty hard to catch on a visual inspection I would think, but no experience.
Code 16 is EGR Switch (CA Only). Check the EGR switch connector, wiring between EGR switch to ECU, or the EGR switch itself.
I'm sure this link is in the FAQ section but you may want to bookmark this page: S5 and FD CEL Codes
You should download the factory service manual (FSM), body electrical troubleshooting manual (BEM), and wiring diagram manual (WDM) to help diagnose any problems. The WDM and FSM will help in this situation. Furthermore, these 3 manuals are an invaluable resource in your tool box.
I was told it was all stock minus the street port and looking at the engine bay it seems to look stock. I might pay to pass smog lol idk yet. I do premix. And yea I’m not worried about the aws code. I’ll let it warmup on its own. I believe stock ecu
Hmmm, street port on a stock ECU? Is your exhaust system stock? Do you still have the pre-cat or have a downpipe? What about cat-back exhaust, is it still stock?
How does your FD run at idle? Does it brap-brap, idle high, stumble or is it buttery smooth?
FWIW, I am not an expert in engine management. As I understand, the car requires a certain amount of back pressure to run efficently. Any engine acts like an air pump. So without balanced pressure, you could develop engine problems much faster than normal. Again, I'm not an expert in that topic!
I hope that others will kindly chime in to offer advice and when needed, correct my assumptions!
I just recently got it but it’s on stock exhaust With cat . I am thinking about getting an aftermarket exhaust but haven’t decided yet. If it’s bolt on I may do it that way I can swap it back for smog test. Won’t be until after I get suspension on it. Idle is around 1.5k
Verify that you have a pre-cat or a downpipe connected to your exhaust manifold. It cannot be seen just by the photo you provided. If you see a bulging pipe connected to the exhaust manifold then the pre-cat is still installed. If you see the same diameter of pipe linking the exhaust manifold to the cat then you have a downpipe. You should also have an O2 sensor connected to either component.
Something to think about when you decide to upgrade the exhaust: you may need to consider an aftermarket ECU, like a Power FC (PFC) + Commander. Hypothetically, if you couple the street port with an opened exhaust such as a downpipe, a high-flow cat, and a cat back system then you should be using an aftermarket ECU. The aftermarket ECU can be tuned to prevent detonation.
Getting back to your original concern about CEL codes, you could ask the previous owner about the EGR system. You could also ask if the stock ECU was modified or chipped. This would help diagnose any other problems you may encounter with the car. The only thing that I would see about those codes would be burning more fuel and emitting more pollutants.
Are there other members who could better advise Don93RX7? @Sgtblue, would you care to chime in, please? Engine management is not my strong suit.
Thanks in that case I’ll wait on the exhaust because both exhaust and ecu would cost me a pretty penny lol. I was thinking about upgrading the cooling. So I might tackle that after the suspension because it’s way to loose. It bounces like crazy. Was going to start looking for some good suspension street use only. Never going to take it to the tracks. And yea idle is high. I was going to mess with it but decided to ask you guys first before making changes like that. I want the idle to be 800-1000 I think that would be a decent idle. Depending how it sounds. Wasn’t sure if aftermarket ecu is needed to change idle
I’m not a tuner. But with that high idle I think I’d get the FSM and maybe start checking the Throttle position sensor and/or Idle air control. If it’s a loping/hunting idle I’d also be looking for a vacuum leak, usually around the upper intake manifold or the gasket between the upper and lower manifolds.
Moving to a standalone ECU does allow you to delete troublesome 30 year old emissions components, but you’re in CA. and doubt it would pass visual or emissions testing.
Probably not directly related to your idle issues but you’re missing the crossover duct that normally runs from the top of your IC duct where it’s been capped with the four rivets, to the intake box. Like that, you’re now sourcing only hot under hood air. Not good for IATs.
Personally I’d focus on the engine issues before moving into exhaust mods but it’s your car, your money.
REALLY old pic of my car when it was close to stock showing the duct I mentioned...
My main priority is making the engine reliable as possible. I don’t need power. I was only thinking exhaust to save the cat but wasn’t going to do that any time soon. So after suspension I was thinking more cooling
Damn I didn’t even noticed that. I’m going to ask the previous owner if he has it. Hopefully he does otherwise I’ll have to buy one for about $100. Does that cool down the engine?
Damn I didn’t even noticed that. I’m going to ask the previous owner if he has it. Hopefully he does otherwise I’ll have to buy one for about $100. Does that cool down the engine?
No, it doesn’t do anything for engine cooling. But sourcing nothing but hot under hood air raises you intake air temperature (IAT) which reduces power and in the very worst case scenario can cause preignition...and on a rotary that can cost you an engine. There’s a simple but invisible modification that can be done to the stock air box to let it source ambient air from the nose of the car. With that, you can leave that riveted plug in the top of the intercooler duct and more air will continue to go thru your intercooler. Better breathing, better IATs, more power, quicker spool-up and invisible to state visual inspection. Search in the 3rd Gen section with terms “cheap bastard”. A member named ‘adamc’ used to make a kit with a little ducting. Not sure if he still does but you can still do the modification easy enough.
Speaking of cooling...that would be my priority above all others once it runs decently. All metal (aluminum) radiator, metal AST which you already have, good solid coolant hoses (special attention to turbo coolant hoses) with OEM clamps, fresh coolant with as much distilled water to coolant as you can get away with safely in you climate but no less than about 20% coolant mix. Clean faces of oil cooler(s) and radiator etc. The car looks like it could use some love.
You can search in the 3rd Gen section for additional cooling mods...but everything pretty much starts there imo.
Not certain but that doesn’t look like a stock main cat to me.
For reference...the stock precat/downpipe on the right, an unknown brand but common looking downpipe on the left:
I agree with SgtBlue, the main cat doesn't appear to be stock. However, the pre-cat looks to be installed. Notice the worm gear clamp around the heat shield in the 2nd photo? It's a little hard to tell given the narrow angles. The heat shield in your photo looks similar to SgtBlue's comparison photo.
I would argue to say the previous owner may not have that cross over duct. If he does and you wish to use it, then you will have to remove the plug on the intercooler duct. It looks to be held in by 4 rivets. If you install the duct without removing the plug then you will cut off fresh air supply to the engine.
adam c is still on the forums. You can shoot him a PM to see if he can fab his "cheap bastard" fresh air intake. The link to his intake thread is here: Cheap stock air box mod
I second SgtBlue's recommendation to focus on engine cooling. A happy rotary is a cool rotary! Do some homework, read up on other threads, and interact with other forum members to prioritize your maintenance schedule. Aside from your suspension upgrades, I'd consider the cheap bastard intake mod and cooling system refresh/upgrades.
As a parting shot, let's not ignore the EGR errors you currently have. If those are not fixed then you will certainly not pass CA smog. If it were me, the closest alligator to the boat would be:
1. EGR
2. air intake
3. engine coolant
4. Brake/clutch system flush*
5. suspension
* - Not previously mentioned but looking at your engine photo, the master brake reservoir has nearly black fluid in it. Brake fluid is hydroscopic, meaning it absorbs water and other particulates. The particulates suspended in that fluid will act like a cutting fluid. It will destroy rubber seals over time. Additionally, the master brake reservoir doubles as the clutch reservoir. That's great to save weight but bad when the same reservoir is contaminated. Simply flush the brake & clutch system using the standard methods and you're good to go! As extra advice, access to the clutch slave cylinder is easiest from under the car. If you have a vacuum kit then bleeding either system is a 1-man operation. Just keep the reservoir topped off! Otherwise, the traditional 2-man operation works well.
I've been meaning to ask, do you plan to do most of the maintenance yourself?
Oh ok thanks guys this is really helpful Information. I’m going to try to pass smog legally but could pass it by paying $150 lol. I’ll go by your list. There was some clunking noise when I drive which I thought it came from the shocks but uncle believes it might be bad bushings or axel. Might have to make that a priority too. I message Adam idk if he provides everything or I’ll have to get the fresh air in duct cover or whatever it’s called. Yea yea I’ll have to do the maintenance and my uncle would help a lot too. Don’t see any rotary shops around me. Uncle has a lot of experience with piston engines. So he’s familiar with standard maintenance
I used to live in Lemoore/Hanford area. A shop is a lot closer that you think. It's a short drive (approx 1.5hrs) down Rte-99. Seek out Palm Tree Rotary in Porterville. Moe, the owner, rebuilt my motor and I was VERY pleased with his customer service, recommendations, and work ethic. Feel free to drop my name. It won't get you (or me) anything extra other than making a business connection.
08-27-20, 04:39 AM
