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New car problems, will only run after tow

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Old Dec 6, 2008 | 03:27 PM
  #1  
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New car problems, will only run after tow

Hi guy's, i'm new to the forum as you can probably tell...

I'm new to rx7 ownership and bought my 1994 import twin turbo last week..so here's my story...
i picked the car up, drove it to get fuel...
It started great no problems there...
As i was driving home along the motorway the heat light came on, as this was new to me i just took is easy, no heavy foot! After about a mile it started to misfire quite badly to the point where it would no longer accelerate and i just made it into the services. Next day picked it up and had to tow it home. Once home after alot of head scratching i came to the conlcusion that it must have been flooded , after scouring these forums for answers. So for the past week i have been repeatedly de-flooding with no success. As a last ditch atempt the morning we got it started by towing it, BUT it will not run under 25k revs and will only start again with a tow.
So my questions are:
what fuel do i run in it must it be high octane and would normal 95 ron unleaded cause this
or
is there a bigger problem that i'm not seeing???????


Any input would be much appreciated even if it's "you plank you've killed it"

Thanks Darryl.......
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Old Dec 7, 2008 | 10:30 AM
  #2  
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Do a search for 'compression test'. There are threads in most likely the FAQ that will explain how to do this on a rotary with a normal piston compression tester. The piston kind is not the best but it will give you a good idea of what you are looking at as far as any possible damage done to the engine.

Was the coolant temperature high or was it an "exhaust overheat" light that came on?
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Old Dec 7, 2008 | 11:17 AM
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Yeah will try a compression test when i get hold of the gear... as far as the light, it was the exhaust heat light not the coolant temp...Darryl....
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Old Dec 7, 2008 | 02:07 PM
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Isnt soundign good man. When the exhaust gets really hot like that it means it is most likely running very lean. When that happens the engine USUALLY blows. I would most definitely do a compression test BEFORE YOU DRIVE IT AROUND ANY MORE.
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Old Dec 7, 2008 | 02:09 PM
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That's not a problem m8 it wont start
my brother in law has a comp tester that i'm gonna try...Daz....
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Old Dec 8, 2008 | 02:40 PM
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Ok, so got the comp tester this evening.... bersing in mind that i had a cold engine and i was using the piston engine tester with the valve out i got...
steady 40 psi on the rear rotor and steady 15 psi ont the front rotor
rebuild methinks

How do we rate the rotary aviation rebuild kits????

Daz..........
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Old Dec 10, 2008 | 11:56 AM
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just an update. tried brand new plugs today....no luck!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Old Dec 10, 2008 | 03:42 PM
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rebuild it...

RA seals are awsome (i use RA Super Seals)
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Old Dec 10, 2008 | 05:07 PM
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Thi is a strange one for me though because from what i can gather fron looking through the faq's, 30-35 psi on a piston comp gauge is good so wouldn't my rear rotor at least try and fire????

All i'm getting is a big fat nothing,,, saying that up until now i have been a piston guy so this is new to me ....... Daz.....
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Old Dec 10, 2008 | 08:46 PM
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If you want to be sure, a Mazda dealer can do a definitive compression test. The DIY compression test is only approximate.

But minimum compression is 60 or 70psi. You want to see 90-110. 15 and 40 are both bad numbers.

Dave
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Old Dec 11, 2008 | 01:34 PM
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Hmmmm, i may have been a bit of a simpleton here!!!!!!

I have done the comp test in the leading holes not the trailing....DOH...
would this make a big difference to the results
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