I bought a 1986 rx-7 N/A about 6 months ago.
Right now I'm in afghanistan and i know that she wont run when I get back.
So now is the perfect time to start messing with stuff under the hood. Right now shes pretty much just a stock 13b 5speed only thing swapped out so far is the clutch I was told it was carbon but it only cost 250 bucks (didnt care just needed to get her running)
Body has a lot of rust so I'm looking into that as well but if someone could tell me what I needed to patch the holes after I sand them down I may just take that route until I have enough to drop into nice body work.
What I am looking into to doind when i get back is:
lightweight flywheel
either stage 2 or 3, 6 puck kevlar clutch
putting in aluminum pulleys
new throttle body
new air intake
new exhaust

Does anybody have brands models prices for any of this?

 

Well, this will be interesting...there as many brand loyalties as rotary heads here, so look at everyone's replies and go with consensus...consider it Natural Selection working on that 2ndgen population. I'm a 1stgen guy myself, so I can't help except to question why anyone would run a puck style clutch on the street for a DD...


Mario III

 

replacing the throttle body (unless the one you have has been damaged) is probably a big waste of time since the non turbos use the same throttle body as the Turbos making 40+ more HP.

 

"Those assigned.........Where are you??"....?

 

The only reason I'm thinking about changing the throttle body is because the whole fuel system is pretty bad and there is rust all over the engine bay.

The reason I wanted a 6 puck is because once I'm done my enlistment and move back to philly i plan on making this into a track car.

 

Ahh, so there was a future plan involved beyond DD....thanks for filling that in and be safe wherever they place you...

Mario III

 

welcome to the board. hope your trip ends in a safe return.

i guess i'll start with brand suggestions, so here goes. as far as clutches go, i'm partial to ACT. i suppose you could also look to them for flywheels, too, but i've only used the Fidanza/RB flywheel for myself. i haven't heard anything bad about the ACT units though.

throttle body can be cleaned up and even flowed (but make sure that the person is experienced first) if you so wish. just something to think about.

exhaust is totally up to you within the confines of your local laws and personal taste. you have a few options, but i doubt if you could go wrong with RB, but i think this is one area where going custom may actually make sense, too.

as far as prices go, check with the forum vendors, i guess that's why they are here. however, definitely shop around elsewhere, too.

good luck.

 

Thanks I was actually looking at a 12lb ACT flywheel but it looked really small does anybody know if you need a special clutch kit for it? I have heard some pretty good stuff about ACT so I'm probably going that route.

Flushing the throttle body: I am trying to do the majority of the work myself I think thats half the fun in building a track car (I was working on a track bike but that dream was shot down by the marine corps since they wouldnt ship my bike to hawaii.) How hard/expensive would it be to just replace the entire fuel system?

Racing beat exhausts... I need to replace from the headers back the whole exhaust on there now is in bad shape. The heat shields have rusted through and broke at points the cat and parts of the piping looked like they might be ready to holy on me. I'm confused about buying a new header from RB. I read somewhere that they require porting (which I'm sure I wont be able to find the tools for and would probably mess up if i tried) and that they are really loud. As far as emmissions laws in hawaii I really don't know. I know they are probably pretty bad since just about everything there is retarded. I found a dynomax headerback and I think there was an apex'i header back as well. If I could go with RB on a stock engine I would like to but is that even possible?

 

for the fuel system, what are we talking about? everything from the tank to the engine or just stuff in the engine bay? all i can say is keep your eyes on the Classifieds, with time you can usually find good stuff for good prices.

as for the exhaust, i'm not pushing you for the RB systems, but porting is not "required", so you're good if that's what you want.

 

Fuel system is old probably got all sorts of crap in it (I got the car at 103,000mi) so the best I can figure is that it sat for a long while. Pushing 15mpg highway and like 12 street. Last time I put the car up before I left tank looked in poor condition and the I doubt the filter has been replaced anytime soon so I'm going to say I'd be saving myself the headache of trouble shooting areas by just replacing the whole thing so probably the tank all the way up to the engine.

Exhaust.. I know its a preference thing (thanks for clarifying the porting for me) but I want a mix of performance without sounding like an rice burner. I head the RB cat backs are good for that but mixed with their headers they are really loud do you know anybody that has tried that at all?

 

This is probably a really retarded question but I have already tried the Short ram on this car best I could tell was that it was just sucking hot air from the engine bay. (one more reason I would like that fc2000 front end) Is it possible to use an intercooler as an air intake on an N/A car?

 

If your looking to build a track car bang for the buck buy a tuned carburetor setup from a reputable dealer.I bought two Webber 48 IDA's off a vw guy for 350$then spent another 200$for a rebuild\tune,Then another 100$ for my manifold.My car runs great,makes good power and i have an extra carb.

 

Where did you get the manifold from? And how much would you want for the carbs?

 

What about interior work? Any frp or CF dash replacements out there? door panels? Also wanted to find some of those glo gauges for this car and do away with some of the lighting wires.

 

I looked into the RB holley carbs but I am confused about my exhaust now. I want to replace it anyway but the carbs recommended not using a cat at all. Can I use a hi flow cat or am I just going to have to do something stupid to pass emissions?

 

do some research on the rest but id recommend the hks exhaust for your needs

 

RX7CLUB.COM, and sorry man I'm using both of them.Also if your building a track car why are you worried about emissions??

+1 HKS great all around system...for turbo cars.For N/A..Racingbeat universal mufflers are a real bargain IMO.

 

Because for the next few years I need it for a DD until I get back to philly and buy a second FC for a DD
This is just a project for auto X while I'm stuck in hawaii

 

Right on.If your doing autocross don't worry about power..get your suspension/tire's sorted out and you'll have TOOmuch fun..The car is actually pretty fun in stock form at the autocross.This way when you get back,it will be on rails just waiting for a port/carb,T2 swap??whatever..just no v8.Gears will also help big time..just couple thing's to think about.

 

Yeah I was looking at JIC coilovers fur suspension. What would you recommend? I like to feel out the road so I like a stiffer suspension but not so stiff my *** hurts after 15 minutes of driving

 

yeh my rx7 has been sitting a wile too i feel u

 

If you plan on autocrossing, start with getting the mechanical components, brakes, steering and suspension up to at least new spec first. Handling and learning how to drive is what autocrossing is all about, hp comes later.

The RB full exhaust is the best bolt on for NAs. I don't know if HKS even made an NA version. Last year I sold my TII HKS system, very nice but original list price was 1400+ shipping from Japan. As far as carbs, is that's the route you choose, Holley is the worst choice for autocrossing, suffers from fuel starving os left hand turns, sweepers. Stick with FI. Depending on your local emission laws, anything but the stock exhaust may not pass inspection, let alone the test itself. You can use an aftermarket cat with a carb but it needs to be one that holds up the the heat of a rotary.

Depending on how large the rust holes are, all of which must be removed/treated first, large holes, use expanded aluminum metal lath, bonded to the body with a special kevlar re-enforced putty. Fill/build up 1st coat with longhair body putty, finish up with standard putty, then glazing putty. Bare metal MUST be treated with and etching primer of epoxy paint prior to putty. Talk with your local autobody paint supplier. that's how I first started out since I never had any schooling in bodywork.

If the engine and exhaust is in good operating condition, you should be getting 24 mpg steady state cruising on the highway. This is where I'd start first.

Thank you for your service and return home home safely. Helping our servicemen is an honor.

In my sig line are links to the online FSMs and other reading, enjoy.
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JIC IS magic..I have a set of FLT-TAR's on my Talon and even on the softest setting they are SUPER stiff so beware what your getting into..I love mine.When you go back to philly can u send me some Genos??

 

when are you going back? I know my FD will have been sitting for 6 months when I get back, and I hope I can get her running fine again easily. it sucks cause you have so much time to think about what you can put on your car, but can't do anything about it...

 

The one's I was looking at were the FL1 or FLT1 something like that it was one of the entry level coilover setups.

Speaking of steering and control the steering wheel had a little bit of play in it. Is that just low fluid or something loose?

Man if you want a cheesesteak go to 5th and south st and get an ishkabibbles steak genos sucks