First of all, I'm sorry if this has been discussed plenty of times somewhere around this section of the forums. But I've been searching quite a bit already and haven't been satisfied with the answers that I've been looking up.

Here's a video of my problem anyways.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WUxf...ature=youtu.be

This problem occurred with me being the dumbass, removing the hoses on the secondary fuel rail (Not the vacuum hose on top of the pressure regulator) without releasing the fuel pressure on the fuel system first. I did this since I wanted to replace every single vacuum hoses, which I thought I needed to remove the UIM for access to all of them. But really I didn't even need to do that.

Yes, I have done the unflooding procedure according to the one on the FC FAQ and an article on Rotarystill without luck.

So in conclusion, may this be the notorious flooding problem that these Rotaries are known for, a simple fuel delivery problem or something else?

I would like to get your guys' input while I wait for my next paycheck to buy one of those fuel pressure tester kits.

 

If it was flooded it wouldn't wanna fire,which it sounds like it is trying to do.
What SERIES of FC is this,and is your AFM plugged in?

 

Sorry about that. It's an s5 N/A FC and yes the AFM is properly connected. I guess I may have to start testing each components on the intake and fuel system according to the FSM, since I'm really stumped on where to exactly start at to be honest.

While randomly inspecting everything, I did found this though. A missing prong on this...thing that's on the dynamic chamber.

 

Plug that back in,it is the Air intake temperature sensor.(AIT)

 

Damn one of the prongs on the sensor snapped off though. Oh well ill just try to find a replacement. Thanks a lot for the inputs! Hopefully that's the culprit of my issue.

 

Unfortunately, the terminals on FC Intake Air Temperature aren't the heartiest material and tend to break off when bent a few times. Some owners, such as our SuperMod Aaron Cake solder some wire onto them to keep the nasties out and give it a short pigtail. If it were me, I'd take it a step further by securing the terminals in place with some glue/JB Weld/etc so they can't be bent, and give it a connector that mates with the stock wiring. They're normal 0.250" Quick Disconnect spade terminals, cheap at Lowes/Home Depot/etc

When it happened to me, I thought I was up the creek. But thankfully, my 20B had the exact same sensor on it from the factory

 

Ahhh that's a good idea! This also gave me an idea similar to this on the water temp sensor since they are proned to snapping off as well.

But if you don't mind posting a picture Akagi, that'd be great! I just looked up the spade terminals and I see that it would protect the prongs but not sure how it will connect to the stock connector?

 

Technically, they are Yazaki connectors, but 0.250" QD type terminals from Lowes work just fine in their place. As for the terminals on the sensor, I don't have a solution for if they're already broken off.

Here's a picture of them, courtesy of Arcadecontrols.com:


What is found on the Emission Harness is the FEMALE connector, identical to the one on the LEFT in the picture. The MALE terminal is the same as what is found on the ATS sensor. The Horn connectors use an identical setup too. As I've not found a semi-local vendor for these, I just go into Lowes/Menards/Home Depot's electrical department and grab these, made by Gardner-Bender and Calterm:
Female Tab Disconnect at Menards

 

Thanks so much for the explanation! No worries, I already ordered myself a new AIT sensor. It's just good to know how to prevent these kind of things again.