djtrickstick

so i got my first rx7 its a 93 sequential twin turbo rx7

i live in vegas so it gets hot and i need to know what i should do daily or weekly to maintain my whip from going south. it was rebuilt about 20k ago and has 99 turbos and aluminumn radiator and hks sucktion intake and racing beat downpipe and a few other minor mods.

i use premium gas as well is this necessary?
and is synthetic oil a good idea? if so which do you guys suggest for a rotary motor

Ernesto13B

iTrader: (4)

Always use Premium Gas for turbo cars. Using anything less may cause detonation and we all know what that means. As for Oil... Mazda does not recommend to use synthetic oil, because it supposedly eats the engine seals. Although a lot of people are saying that they use synthetic oil with no problem at all, there's a LOT of threads on this forum about synthetic oil.

When you first buy any car, here is the list of things you need to replace, even if the previous owner says its already been done:

---spark plugs and wires (recommend NKG Platinums)
---oil change
---coolant flush, check and maby replace radiator cap with Stant 16 PSI cap
---Have brakes inspected
---transmission flush with RedLine synthetic
---differential flush
---check battery/charging system, maby replace battery
---Replace Air Filter
---check tires condition
---replace wiper blades
---Replace fuel filter
---Check for oil leaks, P/S leaks, coolant leaks, brake leaks, transmission leaks, and differential leaks. When I bought my FD I was leaking 4/6 of the above!
---After all that is done, then maintenance will be fixing things as they break

dgeesaman

iTrader: (7)

^ This is a good general list.

Mazda never said that synthetics attack the seals. They just didn't recommend using it. I use synthetic. The key with oil changes in this car (IMO) is to do it very often, as fuel dilution is very strong and regular changes keep the oil viscosity correct.

Also, everywhere that ernesto mentioned a fluid flush, I drain and replace. There is no benefit to paying a garage to use some machine to power flush the insides.

I would pay sharp attention to maintaining the cooling system. In addition to the cap and radiator, do not allow a stock AST to become weak and discolored (replace it). Replace all of the coolant hoses if they begin to show leaks or brittleness. Change coolant yearly.

Keep your door handles well lubricated. I use lithium spray grease - just remove the cover on the inside of the door and spray the mechanism.

Always use premium gas.

Dave

Captain_Panic

iTrader: (15)

Good call. I need to do this. New member tech forum always teaches you something new, no matter how short or long you've been on the board.

spr258

iTrader: (3)

If you need any help looking at the car then hit me up. I live in vegas and have a 94 FD. Always use premium gas and do oil changes all the time. I change mine every 1500-2000 miles. Also look into premix. I premix mine with idemitsu. I am going to tucson this week but will be back wednesday so if you need help pm me your number.

R3DLINE

iTrader: (1)

Nobody said a word about the rear end. I use Redline 80W90 on my diff. What about you?

staticguitar313

iTrader: (2)

Replace or eliminate stock plastic Air Separator Tank (AST).
Check Alignment and brakes.
Inspect rear pillow ball bushings.
FC thermoswitch mod.
Aftermarket water temp gauge or linearized stock one.
Fuel pump re-wire.
Pulsation Damper Elimination or replace with reliable unit.
Check that all TSB's or recalls have been addressed.
Replace Intake Air Temp sensor (IAT) with the fast reacting aftermarket part now available.
Go non-sequential (or single turbo) and standalone computer.

dgeesaman

iTrader: (7)

I've been using Redline Lightweight Shockproof. Since there are no clutch plates or synchros I figure I should use the most loaded gear oil I can find.

You could also add to the list: diff bushings, trailing arm bushings, pillowballs, and toe links/bushings.

Dave