Item #11 of the "General Procedures" list in the link might help as well.

Rotary Resurrection home of the budget rebuild.

 

Found that plug, continuity. Thats the white plug i was talking about earlier what i did was took the other end of that plug and cut it close to the auto tranny and spliced the two thicker wires together. Now i see corrosion inside the plug on the black/green black side of the plug. Thinking i should cut them before the plug but i will wait till further advice.

 

As long as the two wires are mated then that's what is most important, but the bridge needs to be a solid one and protected from the weather elements.

 

This site was bookmarked already. and i tried that with the six pin harness and reverse lights work.

 

I dig what your sayin, i used to do lawn irrigation service so troubleshooting is right up my alley. I understand what your explaining, i do have a little electrical experience . But again i appreciate you holding my hand so to speak and walk me through this. I even think it was important to go to the basics, like this is a sheet of paper, this is a pencil... even though i have experience, i still needed your guidance. Im going to mate the two wires and if this baby turns over, somehow im buying you a case of beer, or something.

 

install a push button starter switch thats what i had to do until i figure out why my 7 isnt cranking...it doesnt take long

 

Getting somewhere... im now getting a clicking noise inside the car, trying to get a voltage read at the red/black wire at starter.

 

I have thought about that, but we are very close to figuring this out.

 

Good luck to you man. I'm about to start digging into a similar issue in the next few days.

 

It's most likely the Circuit Opening Relay which is part of the fuel system and the B/R wire is what powers it so w/o it the fuel pump would not work.

 

The clicking inside is the fuel pump relay, and that wasnt getting power before...

 

Reading at starter selenoid is 9v... so technically it should have started, now im guessing check positive lead voltage

 

Besides voltage, amperage is also important. You can have a situation w/enough volts but not enough amperage. The jumper wires you used need to be thick enough and making contact properly. W/respect to the Starter Cut Relay, you can just unplug it and when jumpering make sure you jumper from the rear of the plug and shove the wires in good if you haven't done it this way.

 

I did, on both areas i jumpered i actually cut before the harness, stripped and used wire dykes to make sure there was contact. When all is said and done i will go back and properly splice wires... im a huge fan of heat shrinks
I think the issue now is the starter ground. An earlier post it was suggested to move the ground to the engine side of long starter bolt, but seems it should be close to the starter. This is the hardest bolt to reach, too....

 

Heres todays update. Last night i was able to get 9+v to the bl/r wire to selenoid, 12+v constant to the positive lead on starter and good ground but no start. This is complexing because those three things are required for the starter. Still, nothing with the key. Jumped the pos terminals on the starter and it spun but not spin the engine. Had starter checked by a different location chain parts store and starter checked out fine. I bought new terminals for the battery. I want to replace the clip on the bl/r wire on seleniod when its not snowing and 30 degrees out. Spent whole winter stripping down a donor car and the striking 91 convertible. Mind you in order to move a donor car i pretty much did things twice to transport. But owning an rx7 takes work and patience is worth it. Pics of her in my album, should check it out.

 

Well, this sucks eggs... i have 12v to positive post, i have voltage to the starter selenoid with key to start. New battery terminals, new connector on bl/r wire, starter checked out at a different location, engine is not locked up, and im only getting a click at the main relay under the hood and inside. When i am under the car and the key key is kicked to start, i hear a hum that slowly stops then i hear something drop sorta. Like when you flip a shop vac over and have to turn it off to get the ball inside to drop before you can turn it back on. Thats the best way i can describe what i am hearing. But its very faint and only heard under the car.

 

How about using another car to jump voltage to the starter solenoid. If the starter turns over fine then proceed to jumper voltage to the Black/Green wire at the Starter Cut Relay which runs to the Inhibitor plug. If the starter turns over properly then move the jumper to the Black/Blue wire at the Starter Cut Relay and check for the same thing. Eventually you'll find the weak point.

 

Now thats a smart idea there...i was thinking about running a wire directly from where i bypassed the starter cut relay to the selenoid. If i jump the two lower bolts the starter spins but wont crank engine, wonder if the 12v from ignition makes the gear engage with the flywheel...does it matter what side of the long bolt the starter is grounded to? Is there another place the battery ground connects to besides the starter? And last question, ive been looking at wiring diagrams, but how many engine harness grounds there should be? I waited a few days to post again to see if i could get past this without help, and to give you a break... you have been more than helpful.

 

There should have been no reason to move the ground to the starter if the original position was fine to begin with.

The Ground from the battery goes to the driver fender and then to the starter.

Voltage is one thing and amplituse is another. You can have one, but unless you have both then you're out of luck. This is why you need to rely on aother vehicle to check your system as yours might not be creating the proper amperage to drive the starter properly (that's amperage not volts).

 

I gotcha... i need to check that ground to the fender, that could be my issue. As far as moving the ground, i read from someone that moving it to the engine side might be better, and i honestly cant remember where it was to begin with. I think ive done pretty good for my first rotary to tear down two cars and build one, minus this thing we have been dealing with for almost two weeks now.

 

Yea, so it turns out that i bought a starter today, installed it and it turns over quite nicely! Much thanks to Satch for all your help teaching me to troubleshoot electric, getting voltage to the starter, and anything else in between... now.... will it start??? Will update that when i hook up exaust and give her a go!

 

Started after a minute of cranking, but an injector was leaking with new o-rings and junk and the car caught fire and well....screw me, looks like i get my garage back after all, cuz im done now...