Hi,

I just recently purchased a FD3S series 6 engine complete with transmission. i had finished dismantling it. I'd like to port and polish the engine myself. my questions are:

1) Which kind of tools should I use best ?
2) I'm planning to use this engine for sunday driving, and I'd like to have it extend porting. How much should I do it ? is there anybody can give me advice, of how much i should do it ?

i'm totaly new to this engine, so i'd be really appreciate if anybody out there can give me some inputs.

Awaiting for your reply. Thanks.

 

Here's a video in which I do some porting. It's not a tutorial of the porting process, but it does show the entire process and as such, is an example of the tools and techniques you would use.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y1Gy5sVMK3o

An "extend" or "street" port is generally the way to go for up to about 400 - 450HP. After that a bridgeport becomes beneficial. Most of the rotary vendors sell templates that give you the port shape, so you just need to trace it out onto the housings/irons and port away.

 

Racing Beat has porting templates and sells the very bits they use to port rotaries.
http://www.racingbeat.com/RX7-1975-1...ing-Tools.html

 

I was told that tracng it is only the easy part. The difficult part is the depths and the slide. Needs moderate mechanical technique to do it. But anyway, even by using these templates, how much power difference would it make ?
i

 

Yes, the real talent in porting involves smoothly transitioning the runners into the ports. For a first port job, you'll just be concerned with making things smooth and removing any sharp transitions.

If you want to practice just get an old bad iron and go nuts. My personal favourite for porting for a long time has just been my Dremel. Easier to control, a huge variety of cheap bits available at any Home Depot, and you don't need to invest in a large air compressor to run it.

 

Yep, Dremels work great for porting. Just take it slow and easy.

 

so how would you get deep into the runners of the intake manifold? that's a pretty twisted up area inside.... on my old honda drag cars i used to take it to a shop that would run an abrasive paste throught the runners, however, a honda mainfold is pretty straight forward from beginning to end, not so with a series one carb mani... that thing has more passages than a pornstar....

 

There's no need to port the inside of the intake manifold. The gains are tiny, compared to a port job on the engine. The runners in the irons are accessible via one of those long snake attachments, or a grinding bit on a rod.

Some tests of forum members here on VERY expensive Extrude Hone operations of the manifolds showed only a few HP gain.

 

What's a Dremel ? Btw I don't want to jeopardise my engine. I'd better buy a ported engine for myself. And I'd rather buy a Dremel for practice. Please enlighten me what's a Dremel ? Thanks.

 

A "Dremel" is a small rotary tool, like a mini die grinder:

http://www.dremel.com/en-us/Tools/Pa....aspx?catid=13

 

Dremels work fine, for small detail work. If you need to remove a large amount of metal your best bet would be angle grinder. You can get away with just using a dremel for port work, but its gonna take a lot longer.

 

air die grinder and carbide bits for taking off material quickly

dremel for fine cleaning up work

i use my air die grinder for jobs start to finish but you need an array of bits and porting rolls for it.

 

Yeah I use my dremel mostly for things that are very small, have tight radius bends (flex tool ftw), or require exacting detail. Or if they are made of aluminum. I ported an intake manifold for my dsm 8mm in about 10 minutes with just the dremel. Die grinder is a must for opening up anything made of cast iron or steel.

 

If you dont know what a dremel is, please dont attempt any porting

 

Every porter has their personal preference as to their favourite tool.

 

i agree, i feel a dremel is best for people learning to port as it takes more work to junk a part. a nice lightweight die grinder takes materials off in chunks and is much quicker to get rolling on the job with but also easier to go overboard with. not everyone has a 100gallon 5hp compressor to keep up with an air die grinder either.

 

Personally I find a die grinder too big and annoying to use. The air grinders blow air into my face and sound awful, plus it's silly to run a 5HP compressor to power a small grinder. I have a nice electric die grinder which I used to port for years, then one day tried a Dremel and never looked back. For me the Dremel takes about the same amount of time as a die grinder as there is a considerable amount of uncomfortable rearranging with the larger die grinder. The only time a Dremel is a bit annoying to me are the exhaust ports, but I think that's more a function of the bits I use. The little rotary files work great, but wear out quickly on the chrome surface so I always need to switch back and forth between the stone and file.

 

the carbide bits chew away the exhaust port sleeves very quickly, i can get a rough cut done on an exhaust port done in literally less than 5 minutes. might see if they have anything equivalent for the dremel but it's going to be a bit smaller and less efficient.

nice thing is they last pretty much forever, if the aluminum starts to foul the bit throw it on the wire wheel and it's good as new again, edges still sharp and all.

 

The poster is in Indonesia. It should be obvious that Dremel brand might not be sold there.

 

I do need to spend the money on a good set of carbide bits. In the past I've used some of the cheap ones but they are worse than the stones.