Fuel Inj Code 27
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Fuel Inj Code 27
I have been reading the forum for years, but don't think I ever posted. I have a 90 GXL which I have had since 92, before that I had an 80 LS until I bought the 90.
Car has basically been trouble free other than the usual electrical issues. This morning I started the car to go out and I had more of a gas smell than usual. Car idles fine and drove fine out of the neighborhood. Once I got on the highway and pushed down on the gas the car bogged down, let off and runs fine. Tired it a couple of times same thing and then the check engine light came on. I get code 27 which from what I found is basic fuel injection problem.
Does anybody have any ideas? Injectors?
Car has no mods other than cat back and 60k miles.
Car has basically been trouble free other than the usual electrical issues. This morning I started the car to go out and I had more of a gas smell than usual. Car idles fine and drove fine out of the neighborhood. Once I got on the highway and pushed down on the gas the car bogged down, let off and runs fine. Tired it a couple of times same thing and then the check engine light came on. I get code 27 which from what I found is basic fuel injection problem.
Does anybody have any ideas? Injectors?
Car has no mods other than cat back and 60k miles.
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I have been reading the forum for years, but don't think I ever posted. I have a 90 GXL which I have had since 92, before that I had an 80 LS until I bought the 90.
Car has basically been trouble free other than the usual electrical issues. This morning I started the car to go out and I had more of a gas smell than usual. Car idles fine and drove fine out of the neighborhood. Once I got on the highway and pushed down on the gas the car bogged down, let off and runs fine. Tired it a couple of times same thing and then the check engine light came on. I get code 27 which from what I found is basic fuel injection problem.
Does anybody have any ideas? Injectors?
Car has no mods other than cat back and 60k miles.
Car has basically been trouble free other than the usual electrical issues. This morning I started the car to go out and I had more of a gas smell than usual. Car idles fine and drove fine out of the neighborhood. Once I got on the highway and pushed down on the gas the car bogged down, let off and runs fine. Tired it a couple of times same thing and then the check engine light came on. I get code 27 which from what I found is basic fuel injection problem.
Does anybody have any ideas? Injectors?
Car has no mods other than cat back and 60k miles.
Code #27 Is for the Oil Metering Pump. You need to address this issue before doing damage to the car.
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Not sure on the code, I had 2 longs, pause followed by 7 shorts. Then it repeated itself.
Smell of gas and bogging did not seem to be an oil metering issue.
I fixed the problem by replacing the battery and positive terminal. The battery was pretty old and the positive had corrosion on it.
Runs great again and no codes.
I followed this for the codes: 89-91 CPU Trouble Codes
Never had a check light on this car before.
Smell of gas and bogging did not seem to be an oil metering issue.
I fixed the problem by replacing the battery and positive terminal. The battery was pretty old and the positive had corrosion on it.
Runs great again and no codes.
I followed this for the codes: 89-91 CPU Trouble Codes
Never had a check light on this car before.
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I finally found the code in my Mazda shop manual.
I agree that 27 is oil metering.
I will keep an eye on it, but maybe it was just some wacky electrical glitch.
I agree that 27 is oil metering.
I will keep an eye on it, but maybe it was just some wacky electrical glitch.
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Disconnecting the battery resets codes. Electrical MOP problems are very common and can be as simple as a loose connection on the MOP itself or a failed unit. When they go, they nearly always burn a section of the ECU and always put the car into limp mode (limited fuel and ignition timing). If I were you, I would test the MOP output voltages at the ECU. The FSM should have a series or values for you to cross-check.
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Disconnecting the battery resets codes. Electrical MOP problems are very common and can be as simple as a loose connection on the MOP itself or a failed unit. When they go, they nearly always burn a section of the ECU and always put the car into limp mode (limited fuel and ignition timing). If I were you, I would test the MOP output voltages at the ECU. The FSM should have a series or values for you to cross-check.
I have been driving around for a couple of days with no repeat. Car was good a week earlier. It sat for a week in between as I try not to drive in the rain.
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Figured I would post an update for anyone doing a search in the future.
It has been 3 weeks and I have never seen a repeat. Seems to be weird things happening with a weak battery and corroded terminal.
Checked again for codes - none found.
I am using 4 oz premix per full tank as a preventive now along with a functioning OMP. I didn't know the OMP was such an issue on the 2nd gen.
It has been 3 weeks and I have never seen a repeat. Seems to be weird things happening with a weak battery and corroded terminal.
Checked again for codes - none found.
I am using 4 oz premix per full tank as a preventive now along with a functioning OMP. I didn't know the OMP was such an issue on the 2nd gen.
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It is only an issue with the S5 as it is electrical.
The Omp shoots a code to the ECU that it is not operating correctly then the ecu says "uh oh,better make the engine start acting funny so the driver knows about this".
It May "fix itself" but it is electrical you can bet that it will happen again.Sometime,when you least expect it..as you think it is OK..as it was just a "fluke".
NOTHING ever fixes itself.Ever.
The Omp shoots a code to the ECU that it is not operating correctly then the ecu says "uh oh,better make the engine start acting funny so the driver knows about this".
It May "fix itself" but it is electrical you can bet that it will happen again.Sometime,when you least expect it..as you think it is OK..as it was just a "fluke".
NOTHING ever fixes itself.Ever.
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Update.
Well of course misterstyx was right. Took 5 months, but the code 27 returned. Checked the OMP and pins 1-2 had on open.
The good news was on open didn't fry the ECU. Maybe a short causes that.
I disconnected the OMP and got the Rtek 1.0 and now premix. The Rtek also seems to fix my other issue that developed about the same time but never went away. If you drove the car, let it sit more than 1/2 hour and less than overnight I had to crank it with the gas pedal to the floor for a couple of secs. Then it would start right up. Sometimes it would fire with the pedal to the floor so I was convinced I needed the injectors cleaned.
Couldn't start and run better now. I am a happy camper. I was worried it would go into limp mode a good distance from home.
Well of course misterstyx was right. Took 5 months, but the code 27 returned. Checked the OMP and pins 1-2 had on open.
The good news was on open didn't fry the ECU. Maybe a short causes that.
I disconnected the OMP and got the Rtek 1.0 and now premix. The Rtek also seems to fix my other issue that developed about the same time but never went away. If you drove the car, let it sit more than 1/2 hour and less than overnight I had to crank it with the gas pedal to the floor for a couple of secs. Then it would start right up. Sometimes it would fire with the pedal to the floor so I was convinced I needed the injectors cleaned.
Couldn't start and run better now. I am a happy camper. I was worried it would go into limp mode a good distance from home.
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