Just finished up a rebuild of a 84 13b and I am having issues with mounting the flywheel. With the flywheel nut tightened down to the end of the threads on the E-shaft the flywheel still has 1 to 1.5mm play forward and rearward. This crank and flywheel combo worked together fine before the rebuild.

The engine seems to spin fine (then again i've never spun a "new" rotary by hand) and puffs of air are produced from the spark plug holes when doing so.
Except for this flywheel issue the engine seems healthy.

Could the wrong end float alone cause this? 1+ mm extra at the back of the engine seems like a lot. Until I get a bigger spacer the end float is pretty much zero at the moment.
Maybe the front stationary gear is too long some how and it's pushing the crank to far rearward.

I thought the flywheel tightened up against the taper on the e-shaft only, does it not?


Thanks in advance.

 

Is this a stock cast iron flywheel or an automatic counterweight with an aftermarket lightweight flywheel? Do you have the little metal key in the keyway? It's supposed to jam on the taper like you said, then takes +- 100 LbFt to torque properly (there's actually a proper method when using a long breaker bar and a calculation w/ your body weight).

 

Stock flywheel, manual transmission. The key is installed. I used a serious impact then a 5 foot breaker bar with a flywheel stop to tighten it.
Since the end play is not a factor then it must be all in the threads. It looks like it's bottomed out on the e-shaft right now but it must not be.
I ordered up a new flywheel nut, who knows what this one has been through.
This is my first rebuild so I am extra cautious. I was worried that I had some how messed something up during the build but couldn't wrap my head around what.

 

Can you post a picture of it?

Maybe someone will notice something that looks out of place.

 

I have limited experience here... I removed and reinstalled a stock GSL-SE flywheel and then replaced it with a lighter steel flywheel & counterweight. Both times it stopped on the tapered fit like it was supposed to. This is weird, because neither the E-shaft or the flywheel is easy to deform.

Dumb question - are you sure it's the proper flywheel? You dont have a pile of subaru and toyota flywheels in your garage?

 

Is the Flywheel loose on the E-shaft or is the Flywheel/E-shaft moving as a unit?

 

I received the new flywheel nut the other day and with it I was able to tighten down the flywheel properly. The last few threads on the old one must have been messed up even though visually they looked ok.