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Hi, this is the first thread I posted..I'm in the Houma area of southern Louisiana, not far from New Orleans. I just pick up a white fd a few months ago in Houston but been driving rotary since I was 17(turbo rx8), have an n/a rx8 now and just picked up my first rx7(favorite car ever) and I love it. Having a little bug problem with it, after warm up it starts idling funny and shakes, exhaust rattles. I dunno if its not getting fuel but sounds fine until it warms up, it still runs and drives just has that problem..
It has a greddy turbo timer, intake from pettit racing, phantom gauges, apexi boost controller, exhaust but not sure what brand and arc intercooler..
It has a greddy turbo timer, intake from pettit racing, phantom gauges, apexi boost controller, exhaust but not sure what brand and arc intercooler..
Last edited by mar3; 12-13-10 at 11:40 PM. Reason: Unstacked lil pics...
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Welcome.
What rpm is it idling at? You can go to the 3rd Gen. Section and download the Factory Service Manual. It will have a trouble-shooting guide for poor/low idle that might help.
BTW, you can ditch the turbo-timer if you want. It doesn't have much use with a water-cooled turbo.
What rpm is it idling at? You can go to the 3rd Gen. Section and download the Factory Service Manual. It will have a trouble-shooting guide for poor/low idle that might help.
BTW, you can ditch the turbo-timer if you want. It doesn't have much use with a water-cooled turbo.
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Welcome.
What rpm is it idling at? You can go to the 3rd Gen. Section and download the Factory Service Manual. It will have a trouble-shooting guide for poor/low idle that might help.
BTW, you can ditch the turbo-timer if you want. It doesn't have much use with a water-cooled turbo.
What rpm is it idling at? You can go to the 3rd Gen. Section and download the Factory Service Manual. It will have a trouble-shooting guide for poor/low idle that might help.
BTW, you can ditch the turbo-timer if you want. It doesn't have much use with a water-cooled turbo.
And about the turbo timer I never had one before and I didn't install it so I wouldn't know how to take it out. It's kinda annoying that the car still runs for a minute after I turn the ignition off.
This is just a vid I had that gives an idea of what it sounds like, it wasn't shaking bad at this time.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kwtyaI4V_M0
I don't have any friends I'd trust to let them try figuring out the problem.
#5
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Nice looking cars.
It sounds like you still have the Accelerated Warm-up System (AWS) in place. That's what speeds the idle up on initial cold start. Mostly for emissions, it's not really "good" for the car and probably not really needed in your part of the country but nothing for immediate concern.
In the video at least, it doesn't sound like anything a new set of spark plugs wouldn't help. Squeaking belt/pulley too, but that's no biggy.
Again, download the manual and check the trouble-shooting. I would NOT recommend adjusting anything idle related until you do that. It's not as simple as it seems at first glance.
Re: the turbo-timer...my car had one on it when I bought it years ago too. Back in the day it was probably automatic install. Got a turbo, get a timer mentality. It was also probably a "stylin' thing". I think some actually thought it was cool to have their car running and have people ask them about it. Regardless, there's usually a "off" setting on them. There is some limited use...when I autocrossed and ran the car under hard boost it probably helped a little not to instantly shut it off after a run. But it can also be counter-productive since coolant and oil temps can actually rise at idle for several minutes.
It sounds like you still have the Accelerated Warm-up System (AWS) in place. That's what speeds the idle up on initial cold start. Mostly for emissions, it's not really "good" for the car and probably not really needed in your part of the country but nothing for immediate concern.
In the video at least, it doesn't sound like anything a new set of spark plugs wouldn't help. Squeaking belt/pulley too, but that's no biggy.
Again, download the manual and check the trouble-shooting. I would NOT recommend adjusting anything idle related until you do that. It's not as simple as it seems at first glance.
Re: the turbo-timer...my car had one on it when I bought it years ago too. Back in the day it was probably automatic install. Got a turbo, get a timer mentality. It was also probably a "stylin' thing". I think some actually thought it was cool to have their car running and have people ask them about it. Regardless, there's usually a "off" setting on them. There is some limited use...when I autocrossed and ran the car under hard boost it probably helped a little not to instantly shut it off after a run. But it can also be counter-productive since coolant and oil temps can actually rise at idle for several minutes.
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Nice looking cars.
It sounds like you still have the Accelerated Warm-up System (AWS) in place. That's what speeds the idle up on initial cold start. Mostly for emissions, it's not really "good" for the car and probably not really needed in your part of the country but nothing for immediate concern.
In the video at least, it doesn't sound like anything a new set of spark plugs wouldn't help. Squeaking belt/pulley too, but that's no biggy.
Again, download the manual and check the trouble-shooting. I would NOT recommend adjusting anything idle related until you do that. It's not as simple as it seems at first glance.
It sounds like you still have the Accelerated Warm-up System (AWS) in place. That's what speeds the idle up on initial cold start. Mostly for emissions, it's not really "good" for the car and probably not really needed in your part of the country but nothing for immediate concern.
In the video at least, it doesn't sound like anything a new set of spark plugs wouldn't help. Squeaking belt/pulley too, but that's no biggy.
Again, download the manual and check the trouble-shooting. I would NOT recommend adjusting anything idle related until you do that. It's not as simple as it seems at first glance.
#7
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That's the air (smog) pump...for emissions. If you're on the stock ECU, I personally recommend you keep it. There's virtually no performance gain by deleting it, only some room and weight. There would normally be a hose going from that to a port on the stock (and most aftermarket) intakes. Right now it's sucking unfiltered air, which probably isn't good for longevity. I'd put a short hose on it with a little universal filter. Or just change back to the stock airbox with a K & N. Not postive, but I think it will fit with that intercooler.
Also, when you change belts there is a tensioner adjustment under the airpump as well as the tensioner near the alternator for the same belt. Some guys miss the one underneath.
Also, when you change belts there is a tensioner adjustment under the airpump as well as the tensioner near the alternator for the same belt. Some guys miss the one underneath.
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I'll try changing a few little parts and see what's up and download the manual.. If it's the motor going bad would I even be able to drive it at all, because I can, if I had a belt on any ways.
#9
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Nothing you've mentioned suggests a bad motor. Sounds fine to me. I usually recommend changing out all the fluids for a new owner to have a "base line", but there's no reason you can't just put some belts on and enjoy it. If it wasn't in the teens with ice and snow where I live, I'd be driving mine.
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I made sure I changed to oil as soon as I got it just to be safe. It hits full boost, everything works and is functional. I have gauges to monitor what's going on. Never really thought about the rest of the fluids but everytime I get a car I usually like to change the oil and give it a tune up. I searched on how to change the wire but not going to mess with that, I'll take it to a shop for that and for the fuel filter. It's fine like it is for now without major upgrades, I'm just glad I have an FD..
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I have two gauges on the pillar,phantom boost gauge and phamtom air/fuel-but I'm getting an aem wideband for the air/fuel, and I have this which I think is a boost controller and its not installed just ran to the glove box from under the hood.. I wish I knew more but my greddy t618z turbo kit for my rx8 didn't have much electronics besides the ultimate emanage ecu and that's the only other turbo vehicle I've ever owned, back when I was 17.. I want to get a power fc and commander for the rx7.. and thanks for the compliments, my fd is stock, looks like you really have a trophy..
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It looks like a nice car regardless. But if you don't get a PFC right away (which would allow you to monitor temps on a commander), I strongly recommend a decent temp gauge. Search the third Gen. section for more details, but it's a pretty easy install and as I said, the stock temp gauge is worthless. Monitoring temperatures is especially important w/any forced induction engine. But you can't do it on the FD with the stock gauge. If it ever moves above it's typical position just below the half-way mark, the damage has already been done and you'd never see it coming.
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I'm taking a guess it's the stock ecu, there's no signs of anything aftermarket.. I'll get to the performance big time after I'm finished with my s14, still have a few months of work with that thing.. It's alot of work and money trying to upgrade three cars and a raptor 700..
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