A few questions before I buy a fc
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A few questions before I buy a fc
I have been thinking about buying a 2nd yen rx7 vert for some time now and just now sold my truck and am able to do something. My plan is to buy a vert with a bad motor and then rebuild it. My goal is to keep this project under 1000 dollars. Do you guys think this is possible? I haven't ever rebuilt a rotary engine but I would like to be able to rebuild this in my basement. We have done engine swaps before but have rebuilt. Is the rotary engine that hard to rebuild? I would like this to a part-time/daily driver. I thought I would ask before buying. Thanks for the help, Cody
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Engine, Not Motor
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I don't think it will be possible to keep it under $1000. You'll be spending at least $600 on seals and gaskets, probably $100 on a used housing, then a few hundred on supplies and incidentals (like hoses, mounts, etc.).
It's certainly possible to do it in a basement, and if you have mechanical ability and can follow instructions, you can rebuild the engine. But $1000 is a tight budget.
It's certainly possible to do it in a basement, and if you have mechanical ability and can follow instructions, you can rebuild the engine. But $1000 is a tight budget.
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Ok, I was hoping it would be possible but I might just try to buy one running already and start saving up for a rebuild. There is one I am looking at the has 100k miles on it. Bad is that there is that the fuel pump doesnt work, no exhaust, and the seat is gone. How can I be for sure the fuel pump is broken and not the engine or do I just take a chance and try it. He said it runs well but I wont be able to hear it run if the pump is broken. Is there any way to be certain? Thanks
Last edited by Airco; 11-04-09 at 09:59 PM.
#4
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Ok, I was hoping it would be possible but I might just try to buy one running already and start saving up for a rebuild. There is one I am looking at the has 100k miles on it. Bad is that there is that the fuel pump doesnt work, no exhaust, and the seat is gone. How can I be for sure the fuel pump is broken and not the engine or do I just take a chance and try it. He said it runs well but I wont be able to hear it run if the pump is broken. Is there any way to be certain? Thanks
Advice from your friendly neighborhood GreedE
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Someone correct me if this is bad for a rotary cause I'm new to these, but what if he sprayed some carb cleaner or brake cleaner into the throttble body while cranking the engine. It should run for a few seconds off that if its just the fuel pump thats dead. I've done it several times to piston engines.
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Someone correct me if this is bad for a rotary cause I'm new to these, but what if he sprayed some carb cleaner or brake cleaner into the throttble body while cranking the engine. It should run for a few seconds off that if its just the fuel pump thats dead. I've done it several times to piston engines.
#7
chances are it's just flooded.
you can test the fuel pump by a little white plug on the passenger side shock tower.
click the key to on then jump the 2 female ends.
you should hear the pump.
i bought my 2nd gen the same way, it has 102k miles and sat for 2+ years i just cleaned the gas tank and unflooded it.
you can test the fuel pump by a little white plug on the passenger side shock tower.
click the key to on then jump the 2 female ends.
you should hear the pump.
i bought my 2nd gen the same way, it has 102k miles and sat for 2+ years i just cleaned the gas tank and unflooded it.
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#9
what i did was...
pull the spark plugs, (now remember, there's 2 different types of plugs mark which one goes where)
disconnect the EGI fuse (closest to the engine)
make sure the battery is juiced up and crank at holding it a WOT(wide open throttle) for about 20 seconds, you will see a cloud of fuel. that is normal. DO NOT have heat/flame/ignition source present
here's the optional part, but makes a HUGE difference.
pour approximately 1oz of any brand/type ATF(that's right, Automatic Transmission Fluid)
into the 2 lower spark plug holes.
replace the plugs/wires and fuse then it should start IMMEDIATLY but be warned it will smoke like a chiminey until the ATF is burned. (about 2-5 minutes)
pull the spark plugs, (now remember, there's 2 different types of plugs mark which one goes where)
disconnect the EGI fuse (closest to the engine)
make sure the battery is juiced up and crank at holding it a WOT(wide open throttle) for about 20 seconds, you will see a cloud of fuel. that is normal. DO NOT have heat/flame/ignition source present
here's the optional part, but makes a HUGE difference.
pour approximately 1oz of any brand/type ATF(that's right, Automatic Transmission Fluid)
into the 2 lower spark plug holes.
replace the plugs/wires and fuse then it should start IMMEDIATLY but be warned it will smoke like a chiminey until the ATF is burned. (about 2-5 minutes)
#10
T for trailing plugs. (top)
L for leading plugs. (lower)
Might actually already be labeled on the plugs.
I usually just place a towel or something down there just to prevent the mist from going everywhere.
Good Luck.
L for leading plugs. (lower)
Might actually already be labeled on the plugs.
I usually just place a towel or something down there just to prevent the mist from going everywhere.
Good Luck.
#11
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Someone correct me if this is bad for a rotary cause I'm new to these, but what if he sprayed some carb cleaner or brake cleaner into the throttble body while cranking the engine. It should run for a few seconds off that if its just the fuel pump thats dead. I've done it several times to piston engines.
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