A few questions before I buy a fc
A few questions before I buy a fc
I have been thinking about buying a 2nd yen rx7 vert for some time now and just now sold my truck and am able to do something. My plan is to buy a vert with a bad motor and then rebuild it. My goal is to keep this project under 1000 dollars. Do you guys think this is possible? I haven't ever rebuilt a rotary engine but I would like to be able to rebuild this in my basement. We have done engine swaps before but have rebuilt. Is the rotary engine that hard to rebuild? I would like this to a part-time/daily driver. I thought I would ask before buying. Thanks for the help, Cody
Joined: Feb 2001
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From: London, Ontario, Canada
I don't think it will be possible to keep it under $1000. You'll be spending at least $600 on seals and gaskets, probably $100 on a used housing, then a few hundred on supplies and incidentals (like hoses, mounts, etc.).
It's certainly possible to do it in a basement, and if you have mechanical ability and can follow instructions, you can rebuild the engine. But $1000 is a tight budget.
It's certainly possible to do it in a basement, and if you have mechanical ability and can follow instructions, you can rebuild the engine. But $1000 is a tight budget.
Ok, I was hoping it would be possible but I might just try to buy one running already and start saving up for a rebuild. There is one I am looking at the has 100k miles on it. Bad is that there is that the fuel pump doesnt work, no exhaust, and the seat is gone. How can I be for sure the fuel pump is broken and not the engine or do I just take a chance and try it. He said it runs well but I wont be able to hear it run if the pump is broken. Is there any way to be certain? Thanks
Last edited by Airco; Nov 4, 2009 at 09:59 PM.
Ok, I was hoping it would be possible but I might just try to buy one running already and start saving up for a rebuild. There is one I am looking at the has 100k miles on it. Bad is that there is that the fuel pump doesnt work, no exhaust, and the seat is gone. How can I be for sure the fuel pump is broken and not the engine or do I just take a chance and try it. He said it runs well but I wont be able to hear it run if the pump is broken. Is there any way to be certain? Thanks
Advice from your friendly neighborhood GreedE
Someone correct me if this is bad for a rotary cause I'm new to these, but what if he sprayed some carb cleaner or brake cleaner into the throttble body while cranking the engine. It should run for a few seconds off that if its just the fuel pump thats dead. I've done it several times to piston engines.
Someone correct me if this is bad for a rotary cause I'm new to these, but what if he sprayed some carb cleaner or brake cleaner into the throttble body while cranking the engine. It should run for a few seconds off that if its just the fuel pump thats dead. I've done it several times to piston engines.
chances are it's just flooded.
you can test the fuel pump by a little white plug on the passenger side shock tower.
click the key to on then jump the 2 female ends.
you should hear the pump.
i bought my 2nd gen the same way, it has 102k miles and sat for 2+ years i just cleaned the gas tank and unflooded it.
you can test the fuel pump by a little white plug on the passenger side shock tower.
click the key to on then jump the 2 female ends.
you should hear the pump.
i bought my 2nd gen the same way, it has 102k miles and sat for 2+ years i just cleaned the gas tank and unflooded it.
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what i did was...
pull the spark plugs, (now remember, there's 2 different types of plugs mark which one goes where)
disconnect the EGI fuse (closest to the engine)
make sure the battery is juiced up and crank at holding it a WOT(wide open throttle) for about 20 seconds, you will see a cloud of fuel. that is normal. DO NOT have heat/flame/ignition source present
here's the optional part, but makes a HUGE difference.
pour approximately 1oz of any brand/type ATF(that's right, Automatic Transmission Fluid)
into the 2 lower spark plug holes.
replace the plugs/wires and fuse then it should start IMMEDIATLY but be warned it will smoke like a chiminey until the ATF is burned. (about 2-5 minutes)
pull the spark plugs, (now remember, there's 2 different types of plugs mark which one goes where)
disconnect the EGI fuse (closest to the engine)
make sure the battery is juiced up and crank at holding it a WOT(wide open throttle) for about 20 seconds, you will see a cloud of fuel. that is normal. DO NOT have heat/flame/ignition source present
here's the optional part, but makes a HUGE difference.
pour approximately 1oz of any brand/type ATF(that's right, Automatic Transmission Fluid)
into the 2 lower spark plug holes.
replace the plugs/wires and fuse then it should start IMMEDIATLY but be warned it will smoke like a chiminey until the ATF is burned. (about 2-5 minutes)
T for trailing plugs. (top)
L for leading plugs. (lower)
Might actually already be labeled on the plugs.
I usually just place a towel or something down there just to prevent the mist from going everywhere.
Good Luck.
L for leading plugs. (lower)
Might actually already be labeled on the plugs.
I usually just place a towel or something down there just to prevent the mist from going everywhere.
Good Luck.
Someone correct me if this is bad for a rotary cause I'm new to these, but what if he sprayed some carb cleaner or brake cleaner into the throttble body while cranking the engine. It should run for a few seconds off that if its just the fuel pump thats dead. I've done it several times to piston engines.
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