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A few questions before I buy a fc

Old Nov 1, 2009 | 05:30 PM
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A few questions before I buy a fc

I have been thinking about buying a 2nd yen rx7 vert for some time now and just now sold my truck and am able to do something. My plan is to buy a vert with a bad motor and then rebuild it. My goal is to keep this project under 1000 dollars. Do you guys think this is possible? I haven't ever rebuilt a rotary engine but I would like to be able to rebuild this in my basement. We have done engine swaps before but have rebuilt. Is the rotary engine that hard to rebuild? I would like this to a part-time/daily driver. I thought I would ask before buying. Thanks for the help, Cody
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Old Nov 2, 2009 | 10:04 AM
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I don't think it will be possible to keep it under $1000. You'll be spending at least $600 on seals and gaskets, probably $100 on a used housing, then a few hundred on supplies and incidentals (like hoses, mounts, etc.).

It's certainly possible to do it in a basement, and if you have mechanical ability and can follow instructions, you can rebuild the engine. But $1000 is a tight budget.
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Old Nov 4, 2009 | 09:57 PM
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Ok, I was hoping it would be possible but I might just try to buy one running already and start saving up for a rebuild. There is one I am looking at the has 100k miles on it. Bad is that there is that the fuel pump doesnt work, no exhaust, and the seat is gone. How can I be for sure the fuel pump is broken and not the engine or do I just take a chance and try it. He said it runs well but I wont be able to hear it run if the pump is broken. Is there any way to be certain? Thanks

Last edited by Airco; Nov 4, 2009 at 09:59 PM.
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Old Nov 5, 2009 | 03:59 AM
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Originally Posted by Airco
Ok, I was hoping it would be possible but I might just try to buy one running already and start saving up for a rebuild. There is one I am looking at the has 100k miles on it. Bad is that there is that the fuel pump doesnt work, no exhaust, and the seat is gone. How can I be for sure the fuel pump is broken and not the engine or do I just take a chance and try it. He said it runs well but I wont be able to hear it run if the pump is broken. Is there any way to be certain? Thanks
my advice dont buy it, can't really tell what condition its in if it doesn't start and it could be a number of reasons it doesn't turn on not just the fuel pump, these cars a delicate as well so just watch out.

Advice from your friendly neighborhood GreedE
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Old Nov 5, 2009 | 11:03 AM
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Someone correct me if this is bad for a rotary cause I'm new to these, but what if he sprayed some carb cleaner or brake cleaner into the throttble body while cranking the engine. It should run for a few seconds off that if its just the fuel pump thats dead. I've done it several times to piston engines.
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Old Nov 5, 2009 | 02:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Mr_Efficiency
Someone correct me if this is bad for a rotary cause I'm new to these, but what if he sprayed some carb cleaner or brake cleaner into the throttble body while cranking the engine. It should run for a few seconds off that if its just the fuel pump thats dead. I've done it several times to piston engines.
I would but I dont think the 13b's have carbs. The guy emailed back and said it has been sitting for a year and that it runs with 60 psi oil pressure. I know that its not good for rotarys to sit but Im not sure on the 60 psi part? To me, it shouldnt run if it needs a fuel pump but I dont know a whole lot about rotarys. Thanks for the help guys, Cody
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Old Nov 5, 2009 | 02:55 PM
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chances are it's just flooded.

you can test the fuel pump by a little white plug on the passenger side shock tower.

click the key to on then jump the 2 female ends.

you should hear the pump.

i bought my 2nd gen the same way, it has 102k miles and sat for 2+ years i just cleaned the gas tank and unflooded it.
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Old Nov 5, 2009 | 03:46 PM
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How do I unflood it if thats the case?
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Old Nov 6, 2009 | 02:02 AM
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what i did was...

pull the spark plugs, (now remember, there's 2 different types of plugs mark which one goes where)

disconnect the EGI fuse (closest to the engine)

make sure the battery is juiced up and crank at holding it a WOT(wide open throttle) for about 20 seconds, you will see a cloud of fuel. that is normal. DO NOT have heat/flame/ignition source present

here's the optional part, but makes a HUGE difference.
pour approximately 1oz of any brand/type ATF(that's right, Automatic Transmission Fluid)
into the 2 lower spark plug holes.

replace the plugs/wires and fuse then it should start IMMEDIATLY but be warned it will smoke like a chiminey until the ATF is burned. (about 2-5 minutes)
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Old Nov 6, 2009 | 09:50 AM
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T for trailing plugs. (top)
L for leading plugs. (lower)

Might actually already be labeled on the plugs.

I usually just place a towel or something down there just to prevent the mist from going everywhere.

Good Luck.
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Old Nov 8, 2009 | 09:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Mr_Efficiency
Someone correct me if this is bad for a rotary cause I'm new to these, but what if he sprayed some carb cleaner or brake cleaner into the throttble body while cranking the engine. It should run for a few seconds off that if its just the fuel pump thats dead. I've done it several times to piston engines.
if you want to make sure the engine will run but don't have fuel, go buy a can of starting fluid in the auto department at wal mart and take off the air box and spray it right into the intake as you crank the engine. i've done this to get my s5 started but won't run past that yet!
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Old Nov 10, 2009 | 01:14 AM
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so that will tell you if its fuel or spark??? if it does start, where do you go from there??
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Old Nov 10, 2009 | 02:13 AM
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check fuses/relays

fuel filter/pump

injector pulse
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Old Nov 10, 2009 | 01:37 PM
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Originally Posted by global247
so that will tell you if its fuel or spark??? if it does start, where do you go from there??
Obviously if it starts then you have a fuel problem not an engine problem
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