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Few issues with 87 RX 7

Old Oct 26, 2021 | 06:24 PM
  #1  
rustybolger's Avatar
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Few issues with 87 RX 7

Have an 87 RX7 with 42,000 original miles. I am second owner(bought couple years ago) but due to certain issues was not able to drive as much as would like. Now getting back in to being able to use there are a few issues.
air does not work
wipers do not work
and radio does not work(turns on but just static)

outside of that everything seems to work relatively well.

are these common issues which are easy fixes or need to be taken somewhere? If need to be taken any recommendations around north Mississippi?
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Old Oct 27, 2021 | 04:26 AM
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The wiper is definitely a common issue, can be solved by changing some of the relays or re-soldering the switch board (or both) depending on the problem. Read more here: FC3S Pro v2.0:&nbsp How-To - Fixing RX7 2nd Gen Wiper Switch
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Old Oct 27, 2021 | 05:57 AM
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To add to the above which is correct, the air conditioning had likely developed a leak and the refrigerant has leaked out. Theres likely no pressure in the system. You will want to go through and replace the o-rings in the system, put a good vacuum on the system, and recharge with R-134A. A shop is your best bet to do the recharge.

The radio being static could be from a bad antenna or bad antenna connection. You'll have to check the antenna connection at the radio itself and at the antenna in the rear of the car.
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Old Nov 1, 2021 | 01:53 AM
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I had the same issue with the wiper switch on my '86 base coupe (not a convertible and no rear wiper). Barnahadnagy is correct that this is a common problem (at least Mazda had the heart to keep the LO setting more reliable). As stated before, brand new switches can be bought, but will cost about $400. I bought a refurbished one off of Ebay (https://www.ebay.com/itm/25080119081...0AAOSwwE5WYfUk) for $195 with an $80 credit if you return your old switch. I've had the switch for a year and so far it works fine. Also, if you decide to change yours out, take off the steering wheel. The nut was not torqued to the max and I was able to coax the wheel off without using a puller or a hammer! Finally, if you're working in a cold garage, a little warmup with a hairdryer on the wire bundles, will help with the connectors behind the instrument cluster. P.S. Then there is the story of the "turn-signal canceling cam". Be sure to re-install it exactly as it came off!
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Old Nov 1, 2021 | 02:54 AM
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When you say the "air does not work" I'm assuming that the fan blows but the air is not cold. If so, my '86 base coupe had the same issue. It would blow a bit cool at first and then get warmer the longer I drove the car. I had the system recharged with the old refrigerant that has been discontinued (R-12). I didn't want to lose the originality of the car and I thought, in error, that the conversion to the new R-134A was a complex job. As it turns out, the modification consisted only of swapping the original charging valve fittings to the new fittings. The first recharge, before the modification with the old R12, lasted for a few years and then started to wear off. I didn't have any issues with seals or leaks, and the pressure check for the system was good. Anyway, I went back to the shop and did the new fittings with the new refrigerant. It has been blowing extremely cold for the past four years. Hopefully, your situation can be fixed easily. Out here in Colorado, it is pretty dry, so I can suffer without A/C some of the time. However, I was stationed at Columbus AFB for four years and I can relate why you put "air does not work" at the top of your list!
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